FIXED!


Modified by SHG_EM1R at 6:29 PM 3/27/2007

 

Do a compression test. The only time you get that sound from a B series is usually a burnt valve, dead plug, or bent valve. It's the sound of a 3 cylinder honda.


I had it once when I had a rev limiter + nitrous incident many years ago. Only other thing I have seen cause it myself is water in the dizzy.

 

When I pull the wire on cylinder #1(closest to the cam gears) nothing seems to happen but when I pull any of the others it seems to die down a little like it should... I should also say that the car has a shitty MSD 6al system on it, so I was hoping that dizzy is starting to **** the bed or something, I don't know much about MSD.


Modified by SHG_EM1R at 5:18 PM 3/24/2007

 

anyone else

 

just did a compression test, 220psi across the board...

 

If you have new plugs and the compression was 220 across the board, the next step I would take would be to pull the #4 plug wire, nothing happens, now pull the #3, it bogs you said, now switch the wires from the #3 to the #4 on both the plug and the dizzy, see if the problem switches cylinders. Sounds to me like a dead wire possible.

Pull your codes as well, should be a random misfire code.

 

Thats the thing I get no codes? And I meant cylinder #1 not #4 since 1 is the one all the way to the right. I pull that wire and nothing happens, the rest it bogs. I used plugs and wires I had in the garage from my ITR motor from last year but I'll go buy brand new **** to be sure.

 

ok so when you pull #1 nothing happens, thats your problem i've seen this happen because of bent valve but you say your compression is good so it should be something with ignition wires or cap since you already change the plugs. check that one wire carefully and see if it cut or a damage also take cap of and cleean could be carbon tracking..

 

Then just switch the #1 and #2 wires with one another before you go buy another set. Switch both ends, not just on the plug and then see if the problem moves one cylinder or stays there. That will either tell you if it's a wire or if you need to look into something else.

 

Thanks for trying to help me, I'll do that once it stops raining but I did replace both the plugs and wires already with stuff from my ITR I've had sitting in my garage for the past year.

 

OH, you already did that today? I thought you meant you did it a while ago. My bust man. Still worth a shot as old plug wires can go bad and it eliminates one more thing before digging into something more expensive.

So no CEL, good compression, missing on one cylinder. Dammit. I need to think more now.

 

If changing your plugs and wires did not do much, maybe your timing belt skipped a tooth while getting on it? I dunno, my car had an idle that sounded like I had cams when I bought it...found out one of my cams didnt line up at TDC...just a thought.

 

If its not the wires its the IACV. Idle Air Control Valve. When its damaged the car sound like you mentioned. Reset the ECU and start her up to see if the problem comes back.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ****_Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If its not the wires its the IACV. Idle Air Control Valve. When its damaged the car sound like you mentioned. Reset the ECU and start her up to see if the problem comes back. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ummm, no. The problem he has is ignition related. The cylinder is not firing as it should, but it still pumping air. This makes the "subaru" like sound. Check the ignition system real well... you will find your problem there.

 

well it depends...if he means the exhaust is varying up and down making a WOO-wooh-WOO-woh type sound (which sounds kind of like a wrx)...then that could easily be an iacv problem...especially since he says it only runs bad at idle and not when hes revving it.

 

Def no a IACV, I def know what that sounds like. The exhaust sounds like a WRX not a idle surge. I will buy brand new plugs and wires just to be safe but the only other thing I could think of was that it may have jumped a tooth... So I'm gunna try and get a timing gun and check that otherwise I have no idea. In all honestly I had my ITR motor I want to put in here soon so I'd just like to find out what the problem is so the future owner of the motor knows and so I know how much to chagre for it depending on if it is serious or not... Thanks for the suggestion guys, keep them coming.

 

But that is not under any circumstances what it happening. Read the entire post before offering help people. He removes one plug wire from teh #1 cylinder and the motor doesn't lug yet it does with the other 3 meaning that he has a dead cylinder with good compression. No IACV, Throttle body, map sensor, clogged cat, or malfunctioning o2 is causing this.

It's an ignition problem and nothing more so let's keep the troubleshooting to that system and not take off on wild goose chases.


SHG, it's not a timing jump otherwise it would still lug with the #1 being removed. The amount of jump required to make it idle that bad (dead cylinder bad) would bend valves.

Not to mention, when you jump teeth, compression numbers change drastically because of the advance or retard of the opening/closing rate of the intake valve after bottom dead center. Yours at 220 psi across the board is nothing more than a standard healthy B18C.

 

Oh yea, I forgot to say the one thing that I don't get is that when I pull wire #1 the idle doesn't change at all. That doesn't make any sense to me... maybe this shitty MSD has something to do with it, I really don't know anymore

 

Man, if you have a chance, give me a call, I will PM you my cell. I already explained it to you but sometimes it's hard to explain ignition problems over the internet when I could just tell you over the phone.

 

Pm'd you back dude, I really do thank you for helping me so much. I wish I was home even though its raining I would call you up and let you hear the exhaust note its making. I'll try the wires tomorrow like you mentioned above

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jay_Sensing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


SHG, it's not a timing jump otherwise it would still lug with the #1 being removed. The amount of jump required to make it idle that bad (dead cylinder bad) would bend valves.

Not to mention, when you jump teeth, compression numbers change drastically because of the advance or retard of the opening/closing rate of the intake valve after bottom dead center. Yours at 220 psi across the board is nothing more than a standard healthy B18C. </TD></TR></TABLE>

When my engine was messed up and I didn't know one of my cams jumped a tooth....my idle was shitty...real low...couldn't even idle w/out giving gas. My car sounded like it was cammed and idle was really rough.

I also did a compression test while my motor had a skipped tooth...compression was was up around 200ish psi on all four with little or no variance between cylinders.

If you run into a dead end, just pop off your valve cover and check the timming marks on your cam gears...if they line up @ TDC or not.

Edit: I also tried checking my timing when my gears were off a tooth, could not find the mark on the crank pulley at all.

 

Yea i'll check the timing just to check but the car idle's fine. It will only slightly dip down after I rev it a little then it goes right back to 800...

 

I wish it was not raining. Tomorrow someone is coming to take my EG shell so I think I might put the Si in the garage a month early and try and figure this one out.

 

Hey i dunno if you fixed your car yet or not.. but heres a suggestion...
Pull the plug wire from cyl #1 and either get an old/other spark plug or a screw driver and see if that wire is producing spark.. if it is..
swap an injector with the #1 injector.. see if the misfire moves from cyl #1 to the cyl you swapped the injector with... could be a bad injector. seen it happen..

 

Wouldn't an injector throw a code though?