I have a built N/A H22A with the mods at bottom, and has a pretty big HP issue. About a year ago I finished the build and got it tuned and only put down 190hp to the wheels but stopped making power at 7000rpm. After figuring out the problem with the P28 ecu with S300 had no secondary runner control on the IM and the flex pipe had a huge leak. So I got a Skunk 2 IM and then then junked my DC header and got a megan racing header. Now my problem is when I took it back to get tuned it made a decent HP curve until v-tec kicked in then it just dropped off by about 30+ HP and stayed level, which came to the max HP of 136hp. The engine sounds great runs smooth, no hesitation, no cels. Does anyone might know what could be going on here. Any input would be greatly appreciated. MODS ARE AT BOTTOM! Sorry for the length.

Thanks, Andrew
-<U>MODS</U>-
-H22 block sleeved and built by Golden Eagle
11.5:1 JE pistons, Eagle rods
-Head ported polished and built by Portflow Design
REV valves, Ti retainers, dual valve springs, Skunk2 stage 2 cams, Skunk2 IM
255lph (HP) fuel pump, RC 550cc injectors, STR fuel rail, B&M fuel pressure regulator, GReddy timing and balancer belts, H23 timing belt tensioner conversion, Megan Header, 2.5" custom exhaust with cat deleted back to Apexi N1 muffler, ARP head studs, Cometic head gasket, P28 Hondata S300, Stage 4 CM, Fidanza Flywheel,

 

You spent all that money to get the block sleeved to only run 11.5. What a waste..

 

Yeah I know, but it was my first build and I was thinking about doing a high compression turbo build or spraying the **** out of it. But your right if I could do thins build over again I would have went higher.

 

The person doing the tuning had no idea??? What does the AFR look like?

As for the CR, you can easily raise it if they're 11.5:1 CR ratio based on the stock combustion chamber volume. You can easily get over 12:1 by milling the head.


Modified by 117 at 7:52 PM 3/21/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nah22accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah I know, but it was my first build and I was thinking about doing a high compression turbo build or spraying the **** out of it. But your right if I could do thins build over again I would have went higher.</TD></TR></TABLE>

...right....High comperssion turbo build . What did you plan to run race gas?

 

Get a better header!!! I doubt megan is much better than dc... check compression, 30 whp is a huge loss. what did your tuner say?

 

more tweaking on the cams

 

where the cams degreed?

dont see anything wrong with that compression. It should be able to extract damn near all the power the stage II's will want to put out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where the cams degreed? </TD></TR></TABLE>

no, i dont think so.. i think they dropped out of college

 

tell your tuner to start earning his money

 

I'm just going to throw this one out there, since you said ANY input would be good...check to see if you have a clogged catalytic converter. I had a friend a few years back who had pretty much every bolt-on and some tuning on his Integra GS-R, and dyno'd less than or right at (can't remember) factory spec (it even felt weaker when he was driving it). He eventually figured out it was his cat, and it freed up a lot of power afterwards...This may be far fetched in your case, but you asked for any input.

 

Thanks for the feedback, I was thinking cam timing also but I have not touched them since the first dyno tune. But maybe they jumped... As for the catalytic converter it has been deleted so that could not be the problem. The tuner had no idea what it could be and did everything he could to figure out the problem. We probably did 20 pulls or so. Ignition timing was good, spark plugs, and distributor looked fine. I swear if it isnt one obstacle it is another, but I appreciate the input.

Thanks Andrew

 

It sounds like your vtec isn't engaging. The ECU is switching cam tables but mechanically it's not working.

Post the chart up when you get a chance.

 

Anthony is right. Post the graph with air fuel plot. A graph can say a lot.

Blake too has a good point. Make sure the cam timing is dead on.

Pirate

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mykizism &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

no, i dont think so.. i think they dropped out of college</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your mom goes to college.

Definetely check to see if everything is tdc and not off by a tooth as baby gay blake pointed out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anthony is right. Post the graph with air fuel plot. A graph can say a lot.

Blake too has a good point. Make sure the cam timing is dead on.

Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>

I read through the big post on this and i thought it was agreed that degreeing cams is not that important. You guys know alot more than myself. Can you explain that alittle more . It is having tge cam and crank 100% in sync correct ?

 

550 injectors seem a lil big for this build no?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lude98SH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I read through the big post on this and i thought it was agreed that degreeing cams is not that important. You guys know alot more than myself. Can you explain that alittle more . It is having tge cam and crank 100% in sync correct ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Correct. You want to make sure you are not off by a tooth on the timing belt. That can definetely ruin your power and have the car run like crap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your mom goes to college.

Definetely check to see if everything is tdc and not off by a tooth as baby gay blake pointed out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

bahaha

For explanation on degreeing cams just hit the search, theres some good info in the archives. It basically makes sure that you have the cams zeroed out where the actual TDC is on the lobes, not just at zero degrees.

 

Sorry for the noob question but how can you be 100% sure that you are on ? Couldnt u just make sure the cam gears are showing TDC and feel with a screw driver that you are at TDC. Then put a 5mm dowel to hold the cams still and hold the crank pulley still to make sure the timing belt goes on correctly without moving anything ? Or are you talking more about something else ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lude98SH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry for the noob question but how can you be 100% sure that you are on ? Couldnt u just make sure the cam gears are showing TDC and feel with a screw driver that you are at TDC. Then put a 5mm dowel to hold the cams still and hold the crank pulley still to make sure the timing belt goes on correctly without moving anything ? Or are you talking more about something else ? </TD></TR></TABLE>

5mm punch for the cams
Crank TDC
Reference crank via flywheel

And you are TDC. Sometimes with aftermarket gears the markers on the side won't always line up 100%. That's why I always use the cam plates with the 5mm punch/dowel location to make sure I am TDC.

 

hmm so with the flywheel it should be on if the crank is ? By on i mean the timing mark at TDC. And if some do not have that mark how would be make sure

 

Yes. The flywheel on H series has a TDC reference.