Any reason not to go LSVT over B16t?
Im pretty much almost done with everything I need to go b16t but then i got an opportunity to score an LS out of a DA teg.
All I would really have to change over is the rods and pistons (i need to change pistons anyway, cause i dont have overbore, i got stock bore so they gotta go)
Only looking for 400whp on stock boost with gt3076r
Already have the b16, so ill just take the head and the tranny of that.
Hear mixed reviews about LSVT's and the TQ graph dosnt seem THAT much better...
But when I think about it, there is no advantage I can think off that the b16 would have over LSVT with springs and retainers it would to the same limit.
thanks
All I would really have to change over is the rods and pistons (i need to change pistons anyway, cause i dont have overbore, i got stock bore so they gotta go)
Only looking for 400whp on stock boost with gt3076r
Already have the b16, so ill just take the head and the tranny of that.
Hear mixed reviews about LSVT's and the TQ graph dosnt seem THAT much better...
But when I think about it, there is no advantage I can think off that the b16 would have over LSVT with springs and retainers it would to the same limit.
thanks
if you have everything to build a b16 block, i'd just do that.
stock-for-stock, i'd do the LSvtec. its up to you. 6 in one, half-a-dozen in another
stock-for-stock, i'd do the LSvtec. its up to you. 6 in one, half-a-dozen in another
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vovchandr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im pretty much almost done with everything I need to go b16t but then i got an opportunity to score an LS out of a DA teg.
All I would really have to change over is the rods and pistons (i need to change pistons anyway, cause i dont have overbore, i got stock bore so they gotta go)
Only looking for 400whp on stock boost with gt3076r
Already have the b16, so ill just take the head and the tranny of that.
Hear mixed reviews about LSVT's and the TQ graph dosnt seem THAT much better...
But when I think about it, there is no advantage I can think off that the b16 would have over LSVT with springs and retainers it would to the same limit.
thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you compare apples with apples...meaning all the same parts on both the LSV-T and the B16-T...you will make more torque with the LSV-T.
I'm not to sure what you mean about making 400 WHP with Stock boost...you car was not factory turbocharged...
All I would really have to change over is the rods and pistons (i need to change pistons anyway, cause i dont have overbore, i got stock bore so they gotta go)
Only looking for 400whp on stock boost with gt3076r
Already have the b16, so ill just take the head and the tranny of that.
Hear mixed reviews about LSVT's and the TQ graph dosnt seem THAT much better...
But when I think about it, there is no advantage I can think off that the b16 would have over LSVT with springs and retainers it would to the same limit.
thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you compare apples with apples...meaning all the same parts on both the LSV-T and the B16-T...you will make more torque with the LSV-T.
I'm not to sure what you mean about making 400 WHP with Stock boost...you car was not factory turbocharged...
the reason i would choose a b16 over an ls vtec is that b16a blocks are everywhere and cheap, you can usualy find forged b16 rods pretty cheap too since theres not a huge market for them, plus you dont need to buy a ls vtec kit,
so with the money you would save going b16 you could spend it on better turbo parts/tuning or build a spare forged internal b16 block incase you blow yours up
so with the money you would save going b16 you could spend it on better turbo parts/tuning or build a spare forged internal b16 block incase you blow yours up
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One clear cut advantage that the LS-VTEC is the spool characteristics. You'll have a broader powerband w/ the LS stroke, and more tq as well. Is this purely a street car? When I say street, I don't mean a weekend driver and mostly used at the track at that. I mean a DD car that's going to face every type of driving conditions that your area might throw at it. If it is a street car, I would go w/ the B16. Now if you were only shooting for 300whp or so, I'd say sure, LSVT FTW, BUT, since your looking for 400whp, which is quite alot to be driving around daily, I could imagine you running into some traction problems w/ the LSVT. You could expect close to 300 ft/lbs tq w/ 400whp in an LS stroke.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vovchandr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All I would really have to change over is the rods and pistons (i need to change pistons anyway, cause i dont have overbore, i got stock bore so they gotta go)
Only looking for 400whp on stock boost with gt3076r</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't understand that rambling piston sentance. I'll start assuming nothing. LS rods are toothpicks compaired to any forged rods you'll find, even lightweight i-beams for NA. Next, b16a and b18a/b and b18c1/5 rods don't mix. Lastly, I wouldn't expect 400whp as a 'ho-hum' goal if I took an old stock, possibly out of spec, 81mm bore and just tossed pistons in there. Piston-to-wall clearance plays a big part with the motor, don't expect it to last all that long if you end up with even 5 tenths+ out-of-round cylinders or 4 thousands+ skirt clearance.
Last of all, I wouldn't try to make 400whp with a stock motor and daily drive it. If it is a DD, I'd leave the b16 in there for lower boost, and work out any issues. While that's being done, I'd build the b18 block.
Only looking for 400whp on stock boost with gt3076r</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't understand that rambling piston sentance. I'll start assuming nothing. LS rods are toothpicks compaired to any forged rods you'll find, even lightweight i-beams for NA. Next, b16a and b18a/b and b18c1/5 rods don't mix. Lastly, I wouldn't expect 400whp as a 'ho-hum' goal if I took an old stock, possibly out of spec, 81mm bore and just tossed pistons in there. Piston-to-wall clearance plays a big part with the motor, don't expect it to last all that long if you end up with even 5 tenths+ out-of-round cylinders or 4 thousands+ skirt clearance.
Last of all, I wouldn't try to make 400whp with a stock motor and daily drive it. If it is a DD, I'd leave the b16 in there for lower boost, and work out any issues. While that's being done, I'd build the b18 block.
You pretty much repeated what I was trying to say.
I ordered 81mm for my obd0 b16, (so its old and tired) without realising i'd need overbore, so now I gotta sell them and get new ones (81.5mm)
Im not looking to make that kinda power on a stock block, which is why im building it.
Im just trying to decide between b16 and LSVT before going too far into builiding the b16. I'm at a point right now where i can easily switch over to LSVT, all i'd need to get is new rods.
My bike is pretty much the DD, the second CRX is an autoX track rat, and this one is prretty much a fast staight line car. I'm not sure i'd go as far as saying it would be a DD but I dont have my mind made up yet. I know what my bike feels like, and I know it gets 50mpg, so that might be the DD, like I said I dont know yet.
I would like the most for the money.
I ordered 81mm for my obd0 b16, (so its old and tired) without realising i'd need overbore, so now I gotta sell them and get new ones (81.5mm)
Im not looking to make that kinda power on a stock block, which is why im building it.
Im just trying to decide between b16 and LSVT before going too far into builiding the b16. I'm at a point right now where i can easily switch over to LSVT, all i'd need to get is new rods.
My bike is pretty much the DD, the second CRX is an autoX track rat, and this one is prretty much a fast staight line car. I'm not sure i'd go as far as saying it would be a DD but I dont have my mind made up yet. I know what my bike feels like, and I know it gets 50mpg, so that might be the DD, like I said I dont know yet.
I would like the most for the money.
if you have the chance to go built ls-vtec against built b16 its a no brainer!!!
go with a 81.25x89mm and dont look back
go with a 81.25x89mm and dont look back
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battle951sedan
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Jan 19, 2012 11:52 AM




