My gf got into an accident and went over two curbs. I had the car in for an alignment but they weren't able to adjust the rear toe(the side that went into direct contact with the curb)
They suggested that I might get an aftermarket rear toe arm b/c her's might be bent and aftermarket ones can adjust further than the oem ones. The only one I found was the megan one so far.
Has anyone had an experience with these toe arms? or know if it'll even fix the problem? Visually it's impossible to see any damage to the rear trailing arm.
By the way the car is stock height.

 

I don't think the Megan pieces are toe arms. If you can't adjust it back to spec, then you need o fix the problem and find a new shop to do it. I would just get a new arm and ball-joint end (and maybe the bolt, but I don't think that would bend) from Honda and that should get you back to spec if the sub-frame isn't bent.

Top-center:

 

I was able to pull this up from another prelude forum:

Were you refering to replacing the Ball and Joint Boot?

I zoomed in on the two parts that they told me might be bent/damaged from the accident. The guy that originally posted the diagram also is in the same situation. He can't get his passegner side rear toe to align and they recommended him to replace the LCA. He tried that but it didn't work, but he failed to realize that there were two LCA's, according to the diagram there is LCA Arm A and LCA Arm B. What a friend of mine from Firestone recommended was replacing LCA Arm B.
I was planning to eventually replace the suspension so I can lower the car but wanted to fix this problem first, unless changing the suspension (strut and spring) would fix the problem for sure.

Anybody else have any recommendations before a start dropping some cash?

This was the megan piece that I was refering to that looks like it replaces LCA Arm B:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWD1V
According to the description it seems like it was made to fix the rear toe.

 

Ok, you're right, those are toe arms. I hadn't seen those in a while...I need to get some myself

Yeah, that's the ball joint I meant, and I wouldn't think the LCA would affect the toe unless it was really bent. LCA B is theone that holds the toe in check, so I would do that one if I were you.

 

sweet, I'll try replacing the joint first and then I'll see if that fixes it.
do you know the part number by chance? I've tried looking at the diagrams at majestichonda.com but the pictures are too small. I usually order oem parts through them b/c they're cheaper.
Thanks



Modified by PRoJecTSLeePaLoT at 7:23 PM 3/20/2007

 

I bent that arm a few years back. I backed into a curb and my exhaust hit the curb and moved forward. In doing so the exhaust pushed on the arm. it pointed the front of my tire outward. I basically ruined a tire after that trying to drive home.

That inner bolt was amazingly hard to get out. I ended up taking it somewhere after hrs of trying to get it loose. The steel sleeve in the bushing will rust onto the bolt.

If you have a 4th gen you can get under that bar and look its a u facing down. you can check to see if its actually bend. Mine was crushed together.

The 5th gen might just be a bar. which you could see if its bent.

 

yeah it's a 5th gen. Both me and my friend tried to see if it's bent but its hard to see (it looks straight from the naked eye) We also got one of his coworkers that has 6 ASE certifications and he suggested that it was that LCA bar that was bent.
The impact was pretty bad, I would assume that it was possible. The entire passenger side door was totalled along with the rear corner panel and the the underframe. The rear passegner side wheel went up 2 curbs before going to a stop. The damages were about $3500.
So should I just go ahead and replace the whole LCA with the ball joint? It seems like it's easier to replace that then to remove the actually ball joint based on what I've been reading on H-T.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kulrevon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That inner bolt was amazingly hard to get out. I ended up taking it somewhere after hrs of trying to get it loose. The steel sleeve in the bushing will rust onto the bolt.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I hear that. Same problem here when I was changing my bushings. I just used a hack saw and alot of time.

That sounds like it could have easily damaged the subframe, or either arm. I don't know what would be a good recomendation except take some measurements, and some pics and post it up. Maybe someone can hook up up before you start buying things.

 

any idea of a specialist I can go to that can handle the problem?