VTEC ?
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From: The HOOD Hialeah, fl, usa
VTEC ?
at what RPM's is it best for VTEC to kick in ive heard that at 6000 RPM's im asking this question because im planning on buying a Mugen chip and Vtec kicks in at 4400 and i thought that was kind of low
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From: Hayward, CA 94541, USA
Re: VTEC ? (B16A CRX)
you really have to run your car under the dyno machine to find out. It all depends on your set up and how your power graph is. The point of moving Vtec engagement is to maximize power. If you're motor is stock with just bolt on, 4400rpm i think is just right. I have mine set at 6200 but my motor redlines at 9700rpm (well, power levels off after that).
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From: long island, ny, usa
Re: (cslegacy)
i had the 4400 on this one ecu, it sucked going into vtec at like 62-3 mph in 5th when you dont want to.
you do feel the car kick more with it that low but for many reasons just lowering it without different cams or changes to the head is not going to make any more power.
you do feel the car kick more with it that low but for many reasons just lowering it without different cams or changes to the head is not going to make any more power.
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Deep In The Woods, Virginia, USA
Re: (freakystyley_73)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by freakystyley_73 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">VTEC at idle is the best. 1000rpm </TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you serious?
Anyways, I think the best way to hook up VTEC (that I've seen) is with an MSD RPM activation switch. Totally disconnect your ECU's VTEC capabilities and rig your MSD RPM activated switch to the VTEC solenoid. This allows you to change your VTEC crossover point on-the-fly with little pills that just pop in-and-out of the activiation switch box. You can even disable VTEC altogether in this manner, or jack it up or lower it whenever you want. Activation switches are fun little toys. E-bay specials can be had for next to nothin, even the MSD joints are pretty affordable.
Are you serious?
Anyways, I think the best way to hook up VTEC (that I've seen) is with an MSD RPM activation switch. Totally disconnect your ECU's VTEC capabilities and rig your MSD RPM activated switch to the VTEC solenoid. This allows you to change your VTEC crossover point on-the-fly with little pills that just pop in-and-out of the activiation switch box. You can even disable VTEC altogether in this manner, or jack it up or lower it whenever you want. Activation switches are fun little toys. E-bay specials can be had for next to nothin, even the MSD joints are pretty affordable.
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: VA, USA
Re: (backwoodsman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backwoodsman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Are you serious?
Anyways, I think the best way to hook up VTEC (that I've seen) is with an MSD RPM activation switch. Totally disconnect your ECU's VTEC capabilities and rig your MSD RPM activated switch to the VTEC solenoid. This allows you to change your VTEC crossover point on-the-fly with little pills that just pop in-and-out of the activiation switch box. You can even disable VTEC altogether in this manner, or jack it up or lower it whenever you want. Activation switches are fun little toys. E-bay specials can be had for next to nothin, even the MSD joints are pretty affordable. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You're a jackass.
Sure you may be activating the VTEC soldenoid, allowing the cam to switch to a higher lobe, but the engine is not compensating it with the proper fuel and timing maps. If you change the VTEC activation point, you need to change the amount of fuel the computer gives the engine.
By disconnecting the soldenoid from the car's ECU, you are killing the reason why it makes more power in a higher RPM range.
It's the same reason why when doing a mini-me swap, you ahould always use a VTEC equipped ECU, and not just a RPM switch. Sure, the cam may be switching over, but the computer doesn't know it, so your fuel and timing needs are all out of whack. Good job dipshit.
Are you serious?
Anyways, I think the best way to hook up VTEC (that I've seen) is with an MSD RPM activation switch. Totally disconnect your ECU's VTEC capabilities and rig your MSD RPM activated switch to the VTEC solenoid. This allows you to change your VTEC crossover point on-the-fly with little pills that just pop in-and-out of the activiation switch box. You can even disable VTEC altogether in this manner, or jack it up or lower it whenever you want. Activation switches are fun little toys. E-bay specials can be had for next to nothin, even the MSD joints are pretty affordable.
</TD></TR></TABLE>You're a jackass.
Sure you may be activating the VTEC soldenoid, allowing the cam to switch to a higher lobe, but the engine is not compensating it with the proper fuel and timing maps. If you change the VTEC activation point, you need to change the amount of fuel the computer gives the engine.
By disconnecting the soldenoid from the car's ECU, you are killing the reason why it makes more power in a higher RPM range.
It's the same reason why when doing a mini-me swap, you ahould always use a VTEC equipped ECU, and not just a RPM switch. Sure, the cam may be switching over, but the computer doesn't know it, so your fuel and timing needs are all out of whack. Good job dipshit.
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Kills, Maryland, USA
Re: (freakystyley_73)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by freakystyley_73 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">VTEC at idle is the best. 1000rpm </TD></TR></TABLE>
I've actually heard from friends that it is better to have VTEC kick in right about 200 RPMs and 0 MPH because then everyone can hear it when you blow up your engine at a traffic light revving.
Ignore any advice Tippy tries to give regarding A/F ratios, those mean nothing and have no positive effect on an engine. Automobile Factory specs mean 0. You need to get some Autometer Effective gauges to be sure that VTAK hits just right.
I've actually heard from friends that it is better to have VTEC kick in right about 200 RPMs and 0 MPH because then everyone can hear it when you blow up your engine at a traffic light revving.
Ignore any advice Tippy tries to give regarding A/F ratios, those mean nothing and have no positive effect on an engine. Automobile Factory specs mean 0. You need to get some Autometer Effective gauges to be sure that VTAK hits just right.
Re: (Tippyman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You're a jackass.
Sure you may be activating the VTEC soldenoid, allowing the cam to switch to a higher lobe, but the engine is not compensating it with the proper fuel and timing maps. If you change the VTEC activation point, you need to change the amount of fuel the computer gives the engine.
By disconnecting the soldenoid from the car's ECU, you are killing the reason why it makes more power in a higher RPM range.
It's the same reason why when doing a mini-me swap, you ahould always use a VTEC equipped ECU, and not just a RPM switch. Sure, the cam may be switching over, but the computer doesn't know it, so your fuel and timing needs are all out of whack. Good job dipshit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
bwhahaha... seriously if i could sig this long i would
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by freakystyley_73 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">VTEC at idle is the best. 1000rpm </TD></TR></TABLE> your car idles at 1,000...wow so i guess you dont mind burning fuel like you do your oil
You're a jackass.
Sure you may be activating the VTEC soldenoid, allowing the cam to switch to a higher lobe, but the engine is not compensating it with the proper fuel and timing maps. If you change the VTEC activation point, you need to change the amount of fuel the computer gives the engine.
By disconnecting the soldenoid from the car's ECU, you are killing the reason why it makes more power in a higher RPM range.
It's the same reason why when doing a mini-me swap, you ahould always use a VTEC equipped ECU, and not just a RPM switch. Sure, the cam may be switching over, but the computer doesn't know it, so your fuel and timing needs are all out of whack. Good job dipshit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
bwhahaha... seriously if i could sig this long i would
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by freakystyley_73 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">VTEC at idle is the best. 1000rpm </TD></TR></TABLE> your car idles at 1,000...wow so i guess you dont mind burning fuel like you do your oil
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Cracker im in, FL, USA
I think honda knows when Vtec is supposed to kick in. I think comanies like MSD (who probably cant even spell Vtec right.) should stay the expletive out of it.
Vtec switches are retarded kid......Do research and read the many flame filled threads from newbies just like you asking stupid questions.
Vtec switches are retarded kid......Do research and read the many flame filled threads from newbies just like you asking stupid questions.
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Joined: May 2006
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From: Bakersfield, CA, US
Re: (Tippyman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You're a jackass.
Sure you may be activating the VTEC soldenoid, allowing the cam to switch to a higher lobe, but the engine is not compensating it with the proper fuel and timing maps. If you change the VTEC activation point, you need to change the amount of fuel the computer gives the engine.
By disconnecting the soldenoid from the car's ECU, you are killing the reason why it makes more power in a higher RPM range.
It's the same reason why when doing a mini-me swap, you ahould always use a VTEC equipped ECU, and not just a RPM switch. Sure, the cam may be switching over, but the computer doesn't know it, so your fuel and timing needs are all out of whack. Good job dipshit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dude, I am going to be doing a d16y8 swap in a few weeks to my 91civic/std.. and I was plaining on just using a pm6 ecu with a timer that has a vtec engagement? Will this not work? From what your saying it seems like it wont? I don't want to kill the reason it makes power? How do I use a ecu that has vtec with this car?? There is none? Help?
You're a jackass.
Sure you may be activating the VTEC soldenoid, allowing the cam to switch to a higher lobe, but the engine is not compensating it with the proper fuel and timing maps. If you change the VTEC activation point, you need to change the amount of fuel the computer gives the engine.
By disconnecting the soldenoid from the car's ECU, you are killing the reason why it makes more power in a higher RPM range.
It's the same reason why when doing a mini-me swap, you ahould always use a VTEC equipped ECU, and not just a RPM switch. Sure, the cam may be switching over, but the computer doesn't know it, so your fuel and timing needs are all out of whack. Good job dipshit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dude, I am going to be doing a d16y8 swap in a few weeks to my 91civic/std.. and I was plaining on just using a pm6 ecu with a timer that has a vtec engagement? Will this not work? From what your saying it seems like it wont? I don't want to kill the reason it makes power? How do I use a ecu that has vtec with this car?? There is none? Help?
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From: VA, USA
Re: (Aynatix)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aynatix »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Dude, I am going to be doing a d16y8 swap in a few weeks to my 91civic/std.. and I was plaining on just using a pm6 ecu with a timer that has a vtec engagement? Will this not work? From what your saying it seems like it wont? I don't want to kill the reason it makes power? How do I use a ecu that has vtec with this car?? There is none? Help?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Th only proper way to do it would be to convert your car to OBD1 so you can use the proper computer.
Sure, you can use an RPM switch, and sure VTEC will activate, but it will probably make less power than your stock A6.
Dude, I am going to be doing a d16y8 swap in a few weeks to my 91civic/std.. and I was plaining on just using a pm6 ecu with a timer that has a vtec engagement? Will this not work? From what your saying it seems like it wont? I don't want to kill the reason it makes power? How do I use a ecu that has vtec with this car?? There is none? Help?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Th only proper way to do it would be to convert your car to OBD1 so you can use the proper computer.
Sure, you can use an RPM switch, and sure VTEC will activate, but it will probably make less power than your stock A6.
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Re: (89efDUSTY)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89efDUSTY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
your car idles at 1,000...wow so i guess you dont mind burning fuel like you do your oil </TD></TR></TABLE>
its actually like 750-800
and it does drink oil like a bitch
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backwoodsman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you serious? </TD></TR></TABLE>
no.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bejita »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think honda knows when Vtec is supposed to kick in. </TD></TR></TABLE>
x999999
the end.
your car idles at 1,000...wow so i guess you dont mind burning fuel like you do your oil
</TD></TR></TABLE>its actually like 750-800
and it does drink oil like a bitch
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backwoodsman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you serious? </TD></TR></TABLE>
no.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bejita »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think honda knows when Vtec is supposed to kick in. </TD></TR></TABLE>
x999999
the end.
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From: VA, USA
Re: (B16A CRX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16A CRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">aight thanx 1 more question if my car is fully built with CTR pistons but the only thing im missing is cams can i step on it or wait till i get new cams</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do what now?
Do what now?
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 802
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From: Cracker im in, FL, USA
This thread and others like it remind me of just how ******' dumb people are.
What kind of **** waffle builds a motor then uses the completely wrong ECU and ****** rigs VTEC?
A FAWKIN' MORON THATS WHO!!!
And you know what??? HT is crawlin' with them. Please let me run into you idiots on the road so I can walk you without trying.
What kind of **** waffle builds a motor then uses the completely wrong ECU and ****** rigs VTEC?
A FAWKIN' MORON THATS WHO!!!
And you know what??? HT is crawlin' with them. Please let me run into you idiots on the road so I can walk you without trying.