Ok i got my lma's today and i didnt realize these were spring type not the cylinder style

I wanted to see who is using this style and what washers are working best.. ive seen that most use .40 but some say the difference is more like .70

Just wanted some insight from people who actually have these in thier B-seires setups and what is working good

im just using a blox A cam so nothing to huge.. i just want to make sure these are going to work correctly

 

I am using these LMA's with .40 washer..S2S2 cams..No problems takin them up to 9500..

 

and yours are spring type?

 

obd2 H22 LMA's are considered to be the best. (They differ from obd1 H22's)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cb7-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">obd2 H22 LMA's are considered to be the best. (They differ from obd1 H22's)</TD></TR></TABLE>

because they are spring instead of hydro if my memory serves me right.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h2b_eg8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

because they are spring instead of hydro if my memory serves me right.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup, much simpler looking.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Timmay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and yours are spring type?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea mine are the spring type

 

what do you guys mean by "spring" and "cylinder" type? I have never seen h22's LMA's but from what i seen, B series LMA's all come in cylinder type with a spring inside of them.. hmm..
can someone please explain it to me or post some photos. thanx.

 

the spring type is basically just an open spring, no casing at all and its a thicker spring than the one found inthe other type.

 

I did this swap about 1000 miles ago.
I still have a bad tap on #1 cylinder.
I wonder if my machinist forgot to put the washers back in the head.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ReDemoN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did this swap about 1000 miles ago.
I still have a bad tap on #1 cylinder.
I wonder if my machinist forgot to put the washers back in the head.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

did you re-adjust the valve lash?

 

Yeah like three different times.
Still doesnt get any better.
More than likely there is something else wrong just dont know what yet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ReDemoN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah like three different times.
Still doesnt get any better.
More than likely there is something else wrong just dont know what yet.</TD></TR></TABLE>

how loud is it? u sure its not a rod knock?? does it change as the rpm's go up or go away? get louder?

 

How bout this today at lunch it quit making the noise.
The noise just kinda stayed the same not any louder or anything.
It got faster as you went higher in the rpm's

 

hmmm...maybe it was a lifter, but i cant imagine spring type being that noisey...so it went away out of nowhere?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h2b_eg8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmmm...maybe it was a lifter, but i cant imagine spring type being that noisey...so it went away out of nowhere?</TD></TR></TABLE>

by lifter you do mean LMA right?

they can be very loud if they're not in good cond.

OP: why don't you just do your own measurement?



#20 is the obd2 type, #17 is the old type

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

by lifter you do mean LMA right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes...

 

Damn last night it started back again.
This is very annoying.
And i do have the springs in place on the original LMA's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DCFIVER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">obd2 H22 LMA's are considered to be the best. (They differ from obd1 H22's)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry to bring this up from the dead but, can anyone confirm that obd2 h22a lma's are better then obd1 h22a lma's on b series heads... where can I find these .40 shims? How many am I supposed to purchase, what type of material should I choose when buying the .40 shim?

Thanks alot

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiR Inspired ED7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Sorry to bring this up from the dead but, can anyone confirm that obd2 h22a lma's are better then obd1 h22a lma's on b series heads... where can I find these .40 shims? How many am I supposed to purchase, what type of material should I choose when buying the .40 shim?

Thanks alot</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not sure of the price difference but have you seen this thread?

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2312727

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EKhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not sure of the price difference but have you seen this thread?

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2312727</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, but i will read it later on. THNX