Looking to get big boom and keep the weight down

 

vague questions get vague answers


buy lightweight loud ones - that should suit your needs perfectly

 

How much are you looking spend?

 

I'd go w/ image dynamics. one of these days I will be tossing my 10w7's in exchange for these speakers. they're a very good speaker....popular on the car audio circuit.

another option is the arc audio flatline subs....I've heard good things about those as well.

 

I have a jl 500.1 and am looking for a good sub to pair with it. I am going with a fiberglass enclosure and would like to know what would be the best sounding subwoofer. Money is not really the object, but weight to power ratio is important. Any Suggestions?

 

http://www.elitecaraudio.com/f...23084

http://www.elitecaraudio.com/f...38375

here's a few threads to help out. . as you'll notice image dynamics subs are well-respected.


steer clear of jl w7's.....they are very heavy....the 10" is around 30 pounds if I remember correctly.

 

One of these... http://mobile.jlaudio.com/prod...id=18

Or two of these... http://mobile.jlaudio.com/prod...id=17 94

 

if you're looking for the most "boom" then take a look at the speakers sensitivity rating.....remember....a 3db increase is sound takes 10 times the power. so, if you look at an id idq15.....94.7 db.....an idmax 10 is 88.5. these ratings are with 1 watt of power.

if you look at the first JL it's rating is 83.7 and the 2nd one is 87.

you can easily see why the idq15 will be quite a bit louder than the JL's....you've got a difference between 10db for the 15".

you'd need an amp 30 times more powerful to power the JL's to get the same loudness as the image dynamics 15"

please don't ask me why I decided on the JL 10w7's for my stereo.....the single dumbest decision I've made for my stereo.

 

Speaker sensitivity has little to do with output.
To gain 3dB of output you need 2x the power or 2x the cone area, not 10x. 94

 

The more I do research on them, The Image Dynamics are starting to look more attractive than the 12w6v2. Not only in price but in sound quality.

 

oops....yup I was wrong on the 10x time power.. in terms of output though the sensitivity of the speaker does have something to do with output. with 1 watt the ID's will be 94db and the JL's will be 83/87 db. you will not need an amp as powerful with speakers that are more sensitive

either way though....the number of people in the car audio circuit running JL's is few and far between....they have one SQ sub...10w6v2 or something like that. now, this isn't to say you should be buying speakers simply based on what other people buy. however, demo-ing car speakers is basically a lost cause unless you have the opportunity to actually listen to the speakers in someone's car. listening to speakers in some random wall at a shop just doesn't cut it. the acoustics in a car are totally different than a sound room.

 

i found a 5000 watt subwoofer, it is serious ******* sound. only weighs 16 pounds. it uses some high-end technology.

do a google search... Critical Mass Ul12

 

If you build a box your best bet to save trunk space is the right side of the trunk. Also make sure what sub you buy is able to be run properly in a small encloser. I run a JL 500.1 with a Boston pro 12, it is a clean sub but not loud.

 

Probably moving towards the IDQ12 D4 v2. Does anyone own this sub/heard it?

 

2000 dollars for a single sub!! wow...and I thought my 550 a piece w7's were expensive.

if you're wanting to drive this sub w/ power levels that high you're options for amps are severly limited....I know Soundsteam makes a couple amps that are in the > 1k watt range into 4 ohms. for an amp this size + this speaker....you're probably looking at 4k at least. and that's just for one speaker. i personally would spend my money elsewhere in a car audio system.

if all you're looking for is SPL in a sub I'd check out http://forum.elitecaraudio.com...id=13 there should be some stuff here that'll help you choose a sub.

 

first what kind of car is this going into?

 

sensitivity ratings are useless as most of them are measured at 1kHz.

 

I've got a 12" KICKER SOLOBERIC w/ Sony 1,100 watt mono amp, 1.2 fared cap.

Great setup. Huge bump.

 

1995 Integra 4-door. Weight is important b/c Im building the motor out. Ok, maybe price is a small issue. Best sub around 5 or 6 hundred.

 

What kind of music are you into? This may not be as important to some but I find that if you tailor you system to the type of music you listen to it helps. If your into Hip hop or rap you might what to look into making a ported box or bandpass. If your into classic rock or rock you would be better off with a sealed box. You should also take time on your front stage of the system. Granted you might just want huge bass but I have heard lots of systems that have lots of bass that sound like crap.

(Why doesnt Iserve work?) I would like to post some picks for this guy.

 

I listen mainly to Euro and the Kicker is perfect.
It hits the fast beats just right.

 

There you go again, the S12L5 is a 600W sub, [OP has 500W RMS] it is also one of the heaviest 600W 12" subs out there. 94

 

Yeah, but it packs a punch. I don't know anything better for the price and power.

 

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If you really want both, its probably best to design your system around a removable sub box and not worry so much about the weight. Of course that will depend on your definition of "big boom" though.

 

Putting a box, amp, cap, and woofer aren't going to make speed differences cause of weight in your car unless your putting 4 subs, 3 amps, etc.