Like the title says while I am driving it wont let me go past 3500, and whenever I press the gas in neutral, or driving, my car bogs right away and then picks up. It seems like when I press the gas it has to build something up to get it to rev. I dont know it just sounds like its bogging or about to lose it, then it picks up but wont go past 3500.

I heard my car may be in limp mode, but there is no way I can check because I dont have the ecu jumper (paper clip troubleshoot), and neither of my eus have a flasher to indicate the code. If anyone had a similar problem, or can explain how I can figure this out I would appreciate it alot!!!! Thanks!!!

 

check timing, sounds like you've jumped a a tooth.

 

how do I check the timing, and make sure its correct or not??

 

Take the valve cover off and spin the crank to the TCD mark on the block. If the mark on the cams is not on with the mark of the crank then you know you've jumped timing.

 

Anyone think it could be sugar in my gas tank???

 

mine did the same thing too, I just replaced my plugs and wires and that took care of it....go from cheapest first though so u dont waste ur money

 

mine does that too while i'm driving sometimes. but i turn it off and off and problem goes away, but when it happens the CEL lights in my dash, i didnt check for cel yet

 

It sucks cause I cant check the cel. I dont have a flasher in the ecu, or a jumper harness to troubleshoot (paperclip) in my car.

 

maybe your dizzy? i know when i got a new one, it stopped my car from boggin out

 

Anyone know how to determine or break down weather it would be the wires or dizzy??

 

i agree i do the same thing

 

if its the dizzy why the car runs normal after i turn it on and off again, i was hearing some wierd noise from my dizzy a coupla days ago

 

kinda tied on money, will I expect problems with the 9mm ebay spark plug wires?? They say their vision motorsport brand

 

I've got the same exact Prob, No cel light or anything

I changed my Cap, Rotor, Plugs, checked plug wires, new battary termainals... I even got a new Conversion harness for my ECU... Still have the prob.

My mechanic thinks its either a bad ECU or a entirely bad distributer - Hope this helps, Ill let you know if I solve the problem - hope you do the same - I'm goin nuts

 

one easy solution....TPS/MAP sensor
one or the other most likely tps

 

I think it sounds like the dizzy to me. I think the code for the dizzy is no 9 from what i can remember. Most reasons why your tps would go is because some people clean the tb with wd40 instead of brake cleaner.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allnaturalb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">one easy solution....TPS/MAP sensor
one or the other most likely tps</TD></TR></TABLE>

agreed.....i had a similar problem in my b16 ef. i put a new map sensor on it and that solved it

 

definetly try the map sensor

 

Yep, i had same problem on my b16a. The ECU's get picky if you can't tune them. My problem was larger injectors for the turbo kit. Could only take it up to about 5,000 rpm and started choking hard, flooded.

 

main relay ftw.

 

I love how people that go OBD1 don't know that our cars have a jumper to check ecu codes.



We have one. Look in the passenger side of your dash, it's there. How do I know, well I use mine all the time in my 90 hatch OBD1 converted.

Limp mode is caused when a severe code is thrown, not severe.

Codes I've thrown (or have seen thrown) that haven't caused me to go into limp mode:

Code 1, 4, 8, 9, 10, 14, 17, 20, 21, 22, 23, 41. Code 4, 8, 9 are all dizzy codes, so steer away from the dizzy cause it's more then likely fine.

Whatever your problem is it's more then likely the map, TPS or some other very serious issue.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludesrv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I love how people that go OBD1 don't know that our cars have a jumper to check ecu codes.</TD></TR></TABLE> I'd have to agree with you, it seems no one remembers how they set their timing properly before.

 

there a way u can check the dizzy..u pull out the igniter and check the voltage...there is a spec to c where it should be at.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cr-x-91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there a way u can check the dizzy..u pull out the igniter and check the voltage...there is a spec to c where it should be at.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is true, for the coil. The modulus tho is different. From my experience this is what happens.

When the ignitor coil dies, the engine dies suddenly. When the modulus dies, you will have intermittent spark, causing miss fires, lag, bog, you name it.

The engine will STILL go over 3500rpm. Move away from the dizzy, check for any codes, then keep going.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludesrv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That is true, for the coil. The modulus tho is different. From my experience this is what happens.

When the ignitor coil dies, the engine dies suddenly. When the modulus dies, you will have intermittent spark, causing miss fires, lag, bog, you name it.

The engine will STILL go over 3500rpm. Move away from the dizzy, check for any codes, then keep going.</TD></TR></TABLE>

agreed.... if your distributor went bad you would really know or your car wont run