Question about Turbo GSR
Ok, before everyone flames me about searching, i did search and came up with some useful info, jus wanted a little more personal feedback.
I'm gonna be turboing my 97 GSR soon and i wanted to know whats the max amount of boost i could run safely and reliably with the mods i have on it:
Aem cam gears
Aem Pulley kit
Aem Cold air intake
DC 4-1 headers
Greddy EVO full catback exhaust
My goal is to reach atleast 300whp daily driven and reliable. I'm gonna be purchasing a full turbo kit and upgrading my fuel pump to a Walboro 255, injectors (not sure what ones i should get - could use some advice), and getting Hondata S300.
If theres anything else i will need please tell me. Also, any advice would be great. Thanks in advance!!
I'm gonna be turboing my 97 GSR soon and i wanted to know whats the max amount of boost i could run safely and reliably with the mods i have on it:
Aem cam gears
Aem Pulley kit
Aem Cold air intake
DC 4-1 headers
Greddy EVO full catback exhaust
My goal is to reach atleast 300whp daily driven and reliable. I'm gonna be purchasing a full turbo kit and upgrading my fuel pump to a Walboro 255, injectors (not sure what ones i should get - could use some advice), and getting Hondata S300.
If theres anything else i will need please tell me. Also, any advice would be great. Thanks in advance!!
i sold my old turbo kit to a guy, he installed it on a bonestock gsr block/ itr head(minor upgrades in the head) he just made 373 @12 psi a few weeks ago.
For a reliable daily driven gsr-t (which also means a turboed gsr). Id say for about 300whp do about 11-12psi. Your set with the walbro 255. Just make sure you get the high pressure walbro 255. They are about 10 bucks more. Your going to want a high proformance fuel pressure regualtor. Reason is the return hole in your stock fuel pressure regualtor is not big enough for the walbro255. You can drive with the stock one on for a bit, but its going to run a bit rich.
On injectors id say use 550's only if your going to run the setup on a stock b18c1. If your planning on building her up later on. Go with 750's. Buy the brand (RC). They are very good injectors. If you want to use a mechanical fuel pressure gauge, id buy high proformance fuel rail. Reason is that the hp fuel rail has a 1/8 port for a pressure gauge. If your going to use a electronic fuel pressure gauge then your going to have to hook up a sending unit.
Hondata s300 is a very wise choice. You never have to burn and base map chips. Also you save a bit of cash because the hondata s300 has a boost controller built right in to it. It also fits right inside the ecu, and has the boost option that your looking for.
Good Luck on the build.
On injectors id say use 550's only if your going to run the setup on a stock b18c1. If your planning on building her up later on. Go with 750's. Buy the brand (RC). They are very good injectors. If you want to use a mechanical fuel pressure gauge, id buy high proformance fuel rail. Reason is that the hp fuel rail has a 1/8 port for a pressure gauge. If your going to use a electronic fuel pressure gauge then your going to have to hook up a sending unit.
Hondata s300 is a very wise choice. You never have to burn and base map chips. Also you save a bit of cash because the hondata s300 has a boost controller built right in to it. It also fits right inside the ecu, and has the boost option that your looking for.
Good Luck on the build.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostedb20EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only mods that you listed that you can actually use with the turbo kit are the cam gears and pulley kit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for stating the obvious, and not giving 1 word of advice, lol.
I just added those cuz its all the mods i have on the car.
Thanks for stating the obvious, and not giving 1 word of advice, lol.
I just added those cuz its all the mods i have on the car.
Sorry ha,i must have mistaken you for a n00b. I thought you listed all those and wanted to know how much you can make with those plus the turbo kit,which you cant,my bad
shoot for whp not psi, 300whp can be fun and still very reliable, its all in the tune. as mentioned above, 450-550cc injectors will get the job done. fuel pump is a great idea too. you dont really need the HP version of the walbro, FPR or aftermarket fuel rail but they would be nice to have. also a chipped obd1 ecu and conversion harness for the s300.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StreetRac3r »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and getting Hondata S300.
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If you are trying to save money,depending on where you live,there is more than likely some crome tuners in your area,and is free (except for the ecu chipping and such)and pretty much does the same thing (unless you plan on using every feature the s300 has which crome does not have)
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If you are trying to save money,depending on where you live,there is more than likely some crome tuners in your area,and is free (except for the ecu chipping and such)and pretty much does the same thing (unless you plan on using every feature the s300 has which crome does not have)
I have been thinking about the same thing.
I kinda want feedback from people who are running boosted GSRs.
Just basically what all you have and what is included in the set up your running and how its going
I kinda want feedback from people who are running boosted GSRs.
Just basically what all you have and what is included in the set up your running and how its going
my db8 is boosted, makes around 300whp on 11psi, t3/t4, and it's been daily driven with no real problems besides normal wear and tear stuff for about a year and change now (20k miles or so)...
i'm guessing your motor is stock - my bottom end is built - but you can definitely get away with 300whp on a stock block though. just get it compression/leakdown tested first to make sure it's healthy before boosting. even though you may not need it...go ahead and save the $$$ for pistons and rods...so if/when the bottom end gives out you can build it. it's not REALLY necessary for 300whp but it's good insurance to have - it does a lot to increase the reliability - in case you get a bad batch of gas, etc. i can beat on mine every day and not have to worry cuz i know the bottom end can easily handle the power i am making.
everybody else's advice as far as the injectors, fuel pump, etc is right on the money. you also need to think about what size turbo to run. if you can afford it, i'd recommend getting a gt2871r (this will be my next turbo) or the smaller disco potato - that'll put you right around 300whp with excellent response. it'll be real fun on the streets...
i'm guessing your motor is stock - my bottom end is built - but you can definitely get away with 300whp on a stock block though. just get it compression/leakdown tested first to make sure it's healthy before boosting. even though you may not need it...go ahead and save the $$$ for pistons and rods...so if/when the bottom end gives out you can build it. it's not REALLY necessary for 300whp but it's good insurance to have - it does a lot to increase the reliability - in case you get a bad batch of gas, etc. i can beat on mine every day and not have to worry cuz i know the bottom end can easily handle the power i am making.
everybody else's advice as far as the injectors, fuel pump, etc is right on the money. you also need to think about what size turbo to run. if you can afford it, i'd recommend getting a gt2871r (this will be my next turbo) or the smaller disco potato - that'll put you right around 300whp with excellent response. it'll be real fun on the streets...
Best advice you could get is do things right the first time and it will pay off. And research research research, you arent going to piece together a strong set up without understanding the pros and cons of each mod that is going onto your car.
ill agree with boostedb20 do it right, easiest thing to do to get the most reliable setup is get a good qualitly kit, i fully recomend full race. search for your local tuners and find the best one, if your on the east cost just call jeff evans. thats what i did, got 315whp 255tq out of my full race stg 1 gt setup. my buddy just installed a stage 1 full race kit and did 360whp. these are both stock gsr motors. ive got 750cc rc injectors hes got 550ccjust showing you that your 300 is easy to get with good quality parts
weve been been dd for a year now and no problems what so ever.
weve been been dd for a year now and no problems what so ever.
I can give some advise. I have had a Boosted GSr for 2 years and this is what I have learned.
1. Get fuel management NOT FMU!!!!
2. Figure out what you want in the end. I have changed many things on my setup some with gain some without. If you want to boost over 11psi your going to have to change things inside the motor.
3. How often do you want to drive this car. That can have a big impact on how far you go.
4. TUNE TUNE TUNE!!!!
I started out with a t3 super60 junkyard turbo and with hondata made 240 at 8psi. Since then I have upgraded to a t3t4e and got 267 at 9 pounds. I have spent well into 5,000 on my car changing things, and to be honest I had just as much fun with my original setup. Good luck with your GSR-T and make sure to do your research.
Matt
1. Get fuel management NOT FMU!!!!
2. Figure out what you want in the end. I have changed many things on my setup some with gain some without. If you want to boost over 11psi your going to have to change things inside the motor.
3. How often do you want to drive this car. That can have a big impact on how far you go.
4. TUNE TUNE TUNE!!!!
I started out with a t3 super60 junkyard turbo and with hondata made 240 at 8psi. Since then I have upgraded to a t3t4e and got 267 at 9 pounds. I have spent well into 5,000 on my car changing things, and to be honest I had just as much fun with my original setup. Good luck with your GSR-T and make sure to do your research.
Matt
Boost pressure is in some sense irrelevant, horsepower is what will kill a stock motor.
You can reliably make 300whp on a stock B18C1, and it will last a long time, only of course if the car is tuned properly and you're not a redlight redliner..
It all comes down to the quality of the tune, and quality of parts you're using that will play the largest role in the reliability aspect.
You can reliably make 300whp on a stock B18C1, and it will last a long time, only of course if the car is tuned properly and you're not a redlight redliner..
It all comes down to the quality of the tune, and quality of parts you're using that will play the largest role in the reliability aspect.
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