Alright I've done a lot of research and I have decided that I would like to go with a road racing machine.I am also looking to put individual throttle bodies. I am looking to get 215-225 wheel horsepower, and 140-160 foot pounds of torque. The Set Up is all motor Type-R (Stock 210bhp-134ftp). You tell me what you would do in order to make this car reliable and hit those numbers.

Please do not common on others opinions just please explain your reason for why you chose that set up.

Remember Money is no problem
Oh and it has to run on 91 octane

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Somalie187 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright I've done a lot of research and I have decided that I would like to go with a road racing machine.I am also looking to put individual throttle bodies. I am looking to get 215-225 wheel horsepower, and 140-160 foot pounds of torque. The Set Up is all motor Type-R (Stock 210bhp-134ftp). You tell me what you would do in order to make this car reliable and hit those numbers.

Please do not common on others opinions just please explain your reason for why you chose that set up.

Remember Money is no problem
Oh and it has to run on 91 octane</TD></TR></TABLE>

NO throttle bodies

i/h/stock exhaust.

stage 1 cams

bump up compression, mill the head maybe, .15 or .20

two layer head gasket

and go get a good tune.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THC07 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

NO throttle bodies

i/h/e of good quality.

stage 1 cams

bump up compression, mill the head maybe, .15 or .20

two layer head gasket

and go get a good tune.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

why no ITB'S ?

 

Ok why not ITB's they increase throttle response which is needed when accelerating out of the turns.

 

I know you say money is no importance. go spend 2k on TB's you'll be disapointed. the difference between tb and a s2 IM is very small.


yeah, lemme add that to the list. a good IM.

EDIT. oh and tuning itbs are a bitch. the smallest change in weather screws up everthing. so no not reliable.


Modified by THC07 at 3:08 PM 3/14/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Somalie187 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok why not ITB's they increase throttle response which is needed when accelerating out of the turns.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You know nothing about anything. Do some research and stop wasting our time

 

big bore
high compression
big cams
race header
tuning

simple aint it?

some of you need to learn the benefits of itb's before flaming them. they are not about peak hp. they will give you better response and a broader powerband when sized properly. for a road race car, i wouldnt mind using them.


Modified by doood at 12:00 AM 3/15/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">big bore
high compression
big cams
race header
tuning

simple aint it?

some of you need to learn the benefits of itb's before flaming them. they are not about peak hp. they will give you better response and a broader powerband when sized properly. for a road race car, i wouldnt mind using them.


Modified by doood at 12:00 AM 3/15/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>


So tell me what itb's are good for again.

not flaming, im just giving input, from experience. my experience is reading facts. maybe you guys should do the same, b4 responding.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THC07 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So tell me what itb's are good for again.

not flaming, im just giving input, from experience. my experience is reading facts. maybe you guys should do the same, b4 responding.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

i just said it:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> they are not about peak hp. they will give you better response and a broader powerband when sized properly. for a road race car, i wouldnt mind using them.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

itb's are worth the money if your lucky. i had a lot of problems with the twm 2000 series but many others had great succes. ther are also two or three other companys itb's on the market. also i hear that the omni itb's are going to be good.

 

if money is not an issue, then

k20a or a2
bolt-ons
kpro tuned

that setup will hit those numbers and still be extremely reliable

 

Idiot ricer teenager. "Money is no problem" If thats true, why are you driving a honda?

 

I would buy a High Boost JRSC kit for the type r motor($3,295). It comes with the supercharger, Hondata, RC injectors, and 3 different pulleys: 6psi, 8psi, and 11psi for adjustablility. It would be low maintenance and reliable as long as you tuned it right. You should be arround the HP and TQ that you where asking for. This is the setup I want for my Si, but $$$ is a problem for some people.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THC07 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

EDIT. oh and tuning itbs are a bitch. the smallest change in weather screws up everthing. so no not reliable.


Modified by THC07 at 3:08 PM 3/14/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>

LMAO thats the funniest garbage i've read on h-t so far. thanks for the sig.

 

whats the point of this thread.. fantasy tunner crap

 

if money is not a problem swap a supra motor in there... you know what expletive that go buy a supra. stupid *** thread.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by j spec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

LMAO thats the funniest garbage i've read on h-t so far. thanks for the sig.</TD></TR></TABLE> How the *** is that garbage? I heard every 10-15 degree change will screw up the whole rotation.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Frijoles &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> How the *** is that garbage? I heard every 10-15 degree change will screw up the whole rotation.</TD></TR></TABLE>

some ppl just dont know any better.
ill explan it to him later, its late im going to bed.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by j spec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

LMAO thats the funniest garbage i've read on h-t so far. thanks for the sig.</TD></TR></TABLE>

go ahead, put it in your sig, idiot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cambopheonix56 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Idiot ricer teenager. If thats true, why are you driving a honda?</TD></TR></TABLE>

MaD 3Rd GeAr VtAk bRo!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Frijoles &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> How the *** is that garbage? I heard every 10-15 degree change will screw up the whole rotation.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well you "heard" wrong. My statement is based on personal experiance.
i've driven with my itb's on a daily basis for nearly a year. Outside temps ranging from 15 degrees to 100 degrees and always ran like a charm after reaching operating temp. This is with no tuning to compensate for outside temps. "Reliability" as you state has nothing to do with what kind of intake style you have on an engine. Now granted of course performance will increase or decrease as ambient temp changes, but the change is no more noticeable with an itb engine as opposed to an engine with a factory plenum style intake.

Now since i cleared that up for you i don't want to explain the matter to other feeble minded users, so to keep further questions at bay i will remove your statement from my sig.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cambopheonix56 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Idiot ricer teenager. "Money is no problem" If thats true, why are you driving a honda?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
So true.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THC07 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock exhaust</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why?

 

ITBs

j spec i wouldnt even have wasted my time typing that to people that dont listen

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You know nothing about anything. Do some research and stop wasting our time </TD></TR></TABLE>
x2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cambopheonix56 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Idiot ricer teenager. "Money is no problem" If thats true, why are you driving a honda?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dreams don't cost anything.... but if your title is true then do this:

]

 

so is that your ride?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by j spec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Now granted of course performance will increase or decrease as ambient temp changes, but the change is no more noticeable with an itb engine as opposed to an engine with a factory plenum style intake.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is why itbs suck for DD. on his car they will not do a damn thing but empty his deep pocket. i said not reliable... ill take that back, but then again running a car lean then rich is not helping its reliability. And itbs with weather change will make it run rich or lean. this OP does not need itbs.

Is your car "open loop"? who tuned it?


<U>blackdelslo</U>, i said stock exhaust cuz its all he needs. maybe a gsr muffler. thats what i use, quite untill you put her under load.


<U>Harryflores</U>, how long untill your finnished? looks great, thats the first ive seen. mad props