EleanoR lost his B18C a while back - total loss. We got him hooked with some 2.0L Love. His original post about the destruction can be found here:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1817216

This motor is intended for recreational road race use, and we designed the build to maximize area under the curve and NOT go for all out top end power. He needs this motor to last so we opted the most usable torque without having to rev the **** out of the motor.

The project is almost complete (engine is in and tuned). I'm sure Don F will chime in with his part in the project. Here are the details on our involvement - 2.0L B18C Build Up.

Bottom End:
-B18C (GSR) Block
-Golden Eagle Sleeves
-Carillo Rods
-Wiseco 2cc Pistons
-OEM Bearings, Pumps, Gaskets (Cometic head gasket)
-Balanced/Blueprinted
-King Motorsports Super-finishing and Anti-Friction Treatment
-Moroso 20910 Pan

Top End:
-King Stage IV Head Work
-Supertech Valvesprings/Retainers
-Skunk Pro2+ Cams
-Skunk Pro Series Manifold w/ King Coolant Bypass & Hondata Gasket

Trans:
-Complete King Rebuild
-All Parts Super-Finished and Anti-Friction coated.

Misc:
-Rage Big Tube Header
-Bored ITR TB

Congrats Mike - you're going to have fun with this one....

Now for some eye candy:

 

Good stuff Clayton! Can't wait to see the results Mike.

 

Some of those gearset pictures look so surreal i thought they were CG at first.

for an ultra-clean workplace.

More pics of the head!

 

Are those skunkworks cams gears? Awesome setup, i love that assembly room.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MikeySpec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are those skunkworks cams gears? Awesome setup, i love that assembly room.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If i remember correctly those are Megan Racing cam gears. They were bought some time ago and I just re-used them for this build.

 

Nice. How long does the coating on the trans internals last?

 

Damn, quality!

 

nice freak'n build...and to those who can take apart a tranny and reassemble them...awesome...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RStoR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good stuff Clayton! Can't wait to see the results Mike.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I think the results will speak for themselves once the graphs are posted. I had DonF break in this motor on his engine dyno in Jacksonville (just up I-95 for me). He did the initial tuning as well on his DTA management system.

As for my ECU, i use the Microtech standalone and we will just transfer the data from the DTA to the Microtech as a starting point and vary slightly on that information to see if any gains can be had by switching from one ECU to another. Graphs from the chassis dyno will be posted up in a couple of months once the car is completely put back together.

 

awesome

 

damn that is a dope build!

 

wow thats clean. subscribed... thanks mike for the PM... this is awesome. cant wait to come cover the in-chassis dyno tune and shakedown

Mike

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aquafina &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice. How long does the coating on the trans internals last?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Let me explain the coatings/treatment a little.

The super-finishing removes all of the microscopic peaks from the parts providing a much smoother and more consistent part. The process does not change the critical dimensions. Depending on the part it may also receive cryo treatment. The anti-friction coating does a bunch of different things. Primarily it helps fill any valleys that remain (microscopic level) and the best analogy I have for how it works with oil is to think of a shower with soft water - when you take a shower with soft water you feel very slippery because the surface tension is different. Very similar process to what is going on with the anti-friction treatment. It lasts forever as longer as there is ample lubrication between it and the other part (s).

We've been doing this since 1997 with the endurance race cars. We were breaking axles left and right. After properly treating the parts we never broke an axle again. King will be offering a full line of parts (axles, final drives, bearings, cams, etc....) that have the complete process done.

This stuff works. Shifting a Honda trans with all of the internal parts coated is a entirely different experience - not to mention there is less drivetrain loss. I'll post some pictures of axles and wheel bearings that have been done up. Really really nice stuff.


Modified by Ausmith at 8:46 AM 3/15/2007

 

looks good!

 

Bro , that is some nice work.

Thank you for you and your company's support over the years.

 

 

Couple more details:

84mm Bore
Stock Stroke
Head was milled .042"
Block was milled .002
Cams degreed in at +2 Intake, +7 Exhaust
Valve-to-Valve = .030"
Piston-to-Valve = .040" Intake, .060" Exhaust
Piston-to-Wall = .0035"

 

here are some more parts to be used for this motor just FYI:

• AEM Cold Air Intake
• B&M Fuel Pressure Regulator Gauge
• AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator
• Endyn Oil Catch Can
• Microtech Standalone ECU
• Exedy Organic Clutch
• Exedy Lightweight Flywheel
• Innovative Engine Mounts
• Full 2.5in Race Exhaust by Magnflow
• NGK Spark Plug Wires
• Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket
• Setrab 24 Row Oil Cooler With Relocation Kit
• Bored Throttle Body 64.5 Tapered to 70
• Fluidyne Full Length Radiator
• FAL SlimLine Fan
• Walbro Fuel Pump
• RC 440 Injectors
• Energy Suspension Shifter Bushings
ARP Headstuds



Modified by EleanoR at 5:19 PM 3/15/2007

 

Mike has a nice motor. It arrived at my shop in a nice largr box, that I am considering for a dog house . We put the engine on the dyno and did a standard nut& bolt, no problems, and then did a proper break-in with the oil supplied by King. Different brand, same idea. Ran the engine for an hour varing the loads and rpm, 2000-3600. Drained the oil and filter hot, let it sit. Checked the cams and rockers the next day, re-torqued the head, adjusted the valves and did some runs to 6500, let the motor cool, did one more check of plugs and valve lash, then warmed it up and did some serious runs.
The Pro2's give a nice TQ range. The BHP peaked @ 263 TQ @ 173. These are good numbers for my dyno and a 84X 87.2 motor.
I really wanted to take the gearbox apart and look at the coatings, I would guess 5-8 WHP.
I left the engine on the dyno so Mike could come up on a Sat. and watch some runs, I set the soft limiter to 8800 RPM,s
The engine never missed a beat, oil pressure and temp. were fine. With the gearbox this should be 230-240 WHP 150-155 WTQ. A good road racing build.

 

Thats a beautiful build and shop.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mike has a nice motor. It arrived at my shop in a nice largr box, that I am considering for a dog house . </TD></TR></TABLE>

Don has a Pitbull mix named Turbo that is absolutely insane. He howls at the dyno whenever we would make pulls.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EleanoR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Don has a Pitbull mix named Turbo that is absolutely insane. He howls at the dyno whenever we would make pulls. </TD></TR></TABLE> Correction, only if the motor runs well. No BHP, No howeling. He is better than a wide-band.

 

I love those pictures.

King did a very good job putting the motor together. I like how they spent time and detail into constructing and documenting the process.

Met Clayton in person and he was a nice guy. Good luck on the cycling.

I would also like to thank DonF for breaking in and tuning the motor. He was a very knowledgable person when it came to Honda's and between Turbo howling and Don downing Naddy (Natural) Lights I'm sure enjoyed the process.



Motor looks strong from what I can tell. I can't wait to drive this thing!

The car is being re-assembled as we speak. Once everything is put back together I'll make a new final post with engine and info in this post combined with the car freshly repainted. I already think the car looks sick in it's new color.

 

Is the same lubricant coating used on the gears as on the pistons/other engine internals? Does King do it in house? Would you be willing to list everything that was coated in the build.

Beautiful shop by the way.

LOL my buddy's dad has been drinking a six of natty lite every day that I've known him. "Only beer that doesn't give me a headache the next day"
... maybe that explains why hangovers were easier when I was in college than they are now that I drink so called 'better beer.'

 

This is almost the exact same build on my Type R except for the microfinishing stuff (i.e. sleeved 2.0 B18C5 with all the bells and whistles).

I've been running Toda B's up until until now - but have a set of Skunk Pro 2's going in soon.

The only thing that I have different is the IB spec CNC'd intake manifold and use Outlaw Engineering Thermoblok gaskets instead of the Hondata ones (I had an IM crack b/c the Hondata stuff gets too soft when the engine really heats up).

I'm very interested to see the results of this motor.