quick b16b turbo questions
Ok want to boost a b16b.
As compression is high and low torque, im wanting to put either a gsr crank or itr crank in.
How different are they?
If i run either one of those cranks, can i then run any 1.8 forged rods and pistons?
My RS ratio is obviously going to be effected, but what would be safer for revving around 8500rpm? itr or gsr crank...
Also i know this is a very stupid question...
Im going to purchase a kit instead of piece one together.
Im looking at full race, peakboost etc...
Are there any other reputable names which are a little cheaper???
THANKS A LOT
Josh
As compression is high and low torque, im wanting to put either a gsr crank or itr crank in.
How different are they?
If i run either one of those cranks, can i then run any 1.8 forged rods and pistons?
My RS ratio is obviously going to be effected, but what would be safer for revving around 8500rpm? itr or gsr crank...
Also i know this is a very stupid question...
Im going to purchase a kit instead of piece one together.
Im looking at full race, peakboost etc...
Are there any other reputable names which are a little cheaper???
THANKS A LOT
Josh
this may seem like a better idea, let me know what you think: sell your b16b swap and boost a b16a or gsr. you will probably save a ton of money and you will have money leftover to do springs/retainers and possibly pistons/rods.
if you dont want to do that, then i would just boost the b16b the way it is.
if you dont want to do that, then i would just boost the b16b the way it is.
keep your B16B but if you wanna turbo it do only around 4-8psi that will require good tuning 93 or 97 octane a great intercooler and some other things now as far as the crank goes the CTR one is great but if your looking to stroke your motor then look into the eagle or scat cranks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ham »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this may seem like a better idea, let me know what you think: sell your b16b swap and boost a b16a or gsr. you will probably save a ton of money and you will have money leftover to do springs/retainers and possibly pistons/rods.
if you dont want to do that, then i would just boost the b16b the way it is.</TD></TR></TABLE>
couldnt agree more...
if you dont want to do that, then i would just boost the b16b the way it is.</TD></TR></TABLE>
couldnt agree more...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony413 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">keep your B16B but if you wanna turbo it do only around 4-8psi that will require good tuning 93 or 97 octane </TD></TR></TABLE>
when figuring out what a particular motor is capable of, look at WHP, not how much boost...
when figuring out what a particular motor is capable of, look at WHP, not how much boost...
Are you all serious??? about boosting the b16b as it is? also with how high the compression is!???
Its easy to source a b18 crank and then buy aftermarket b18 rods and pistons...
Too make it clear, and do not ask why... its not an option to sell the b16b...
Im aiming for around 280whp as safely as possible without sleeving my block. Hence me wanting to change the crank and run b18 forged rods and pistons also gives me more torque...
Its easy to source a b18 crank and then buy aftermarket b18 rods and pistons...
Too make it clear, and do not ask why... its not an option to sell the b16b...
Im aiming for around 280whp as safely as possible without sleeving my block. Hence me wanting to change the crank and run b18 forged rods and pistons also gives me more torque...
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Yes i know that... but i am in the UK and the tuners here are not as gd as the people in the states... Actually MASE is going to tune my car as he makes frequent visits over here.
And i want to try and keep it as safe as possible without sleeving... And lowering my compression would definitely be the safest way.
Without pistons and rods, are there other ways of lowering compression other than just a thicker head gasket?
If im going to have to take the head off to put on adjustable cam gears and put a thicker head gasket, i was going to pull the whole engine out, spray the engine bay black and do a proper wire tuck at the same time, so might aswell change the internals why the engine is out???
And i want to try and keep it as safe as possible without sleeving... And lowering my compression would definitely be the safest way.
Without pistons and rods, are there other ways of lowering compression other than just a thicker head gasket?
If im going to have to take the head off to put on adjustable cam gears and put a thicker head gasket, i was going to pull the whole engine out, spray the engine bay black and do a proper wire tuck at the same time, so might aswell change the internals why the engine is out???
gsr and itr cranks both have the same stroke. the itr crank is heavier though to withstand the higher revs it was intended to see. if you use either crank you can then use gsr/itr rods and pistons.
b16b stock compression isnt all that high for boost considering many people boost b18c5's and k20a's with stock blocks. it's all in the tune.
b16b stock compression isnt all that high for boost considering many people boost b18c5's and k20a's with stock blocks. it's all in the tune.
Hmmm that is true... if i did get it tuned over here in the UK it would have to be done by MASE that comes over to the UK once in a while and ill tune it on Hondata s300.
Can you tell me all the ways of reducing comp apart from changing pistons?
THANKS FOR THE HELP!
Can you tell me all the ways of reducing comp apart from changing pistons?
THANKS FOR THE HELP!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Topdawgg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
when figuring out what a particular motor is capable of, look at WHP, not how much boost...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
WHP is a reference number to torque and torque is what gets ya down the track quick
i was only telling him boost numbers because he needs to be reasonable and safe
when figuring out what a particular motor is capable of, look at WHP, not how much boost...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
WHP is a reference number to torque and torque is what gets ya down the track quick
i was only telling him boost numbers because he needs to be reasonable and safe
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony413 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
WHP is a reference number to torque and torque is what gets ya down the track quick
i was only telling him boost numbers because he needs to be reasonable and safe </TD></TR></TABLE>
srry for the double post but to answers yours question you can get your heads combustion chambers enlarged this will ad to your CC's and lower your comp some. heres a little math dont be intimidated
Comp Ratio= cylinder + chamber volume
--------------------------------
cylinder volume
Cylinder volume= pi/4 (bore^2)(stroke)
Chamber Volume= cylinder volume
-----------------------
Comp ratio - 1.0
Displacement Ratio= cylinder volume
---------------------
chamber volume
WHP is a reference number to torque and torque is what gets ya down the track quick
i was only telling him boost numbers because he needs to be reasonable and safe </TD></TR></TABLE>srry for the double post but to answers yours question you can get your heads combustion chambers enlarged this will ad to your CC's and lower your comp some. heres a little math dont be intimidated
Comp Ratio= cylinder + chamber volume
--------------------------------
cylinder volume
Cylinder volume= pi/4 (bore^2)(stroke)
Chamber Volume= cylinder volume
-----------------------
Comp ratio - 1.0
Displacement Ratio= cylinder volume
---------------------
chamber volume
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