upper control arm
okay the boot on my upper control arm is ripped i squeeze it nothing came out but water assuming rain go in and washed all the grease out.. now my car is makin this nasty sound thats really irritating and i'm scared the joint will seperate and cause more damage....
i;m assuming its one peice and balljoint isn't sold seperately..
anybody has a DIY on this or anything at all.. don't have a manual and need to do this asap.. can this be done with hand tools.. i tried and it looks like its on there tight and for some time.. i don't want to spend more money by buying air compressor with air tools. let me know thanks..
i;m assuming its one peice and balljoint isn't sold seperately..
anybody has a DIY on this or anything at all.. don't have a manual and need to do this asap.. can this be done with hand tools.. i tried and it looks like its on there tight and for some time.. i don't want to spend more money by buying air compressor with air tools. let me know thanks..
Here are some individual ball joints.
http://www.racerwheel.com/prg-511011.html
And here is a ball joint seperator
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW
Now get yourself an alignment and your all set!
http://www.racerwheel.com/prg-511011.html
And here is a ball joint seperator
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW
Now get yourself an alignment and your all set!
don't all i do is jack the knuckle up so i can get the threaded part inside the knuckle and then bolt it up....
press what on? don't the balljoint come as one peice with the control arm what are you talkin about?
press what on? don't the balljoint come as one peice with the control arm what are you talkin about?
yes, you are right... The upper control arm and ball joint are one piece, no press needed.

to free the ball joint from the knuckle, just go rent a ball joint seperator at AutoZone. It'll look like a big tuning fork or something. It'll be wedge shaped so as you hammer it between the upper arm and the knuckle it'll seperate the two parts. This normally isn't recommended because this will rip the ball joint boot but because you're replacing the ball joint and arm it doesn't matter.
Then just unbolt the upper arm from the car, the nuts are locate inside the engine bay. Replace in reverse order, torque the upper arm nuts to 47 lbs-ft and the ball joint castle nut to 29-35 lbs-ft. Don't forget to get an alignment after your done.

to free the ball joint from the knuckle, just go rent a ball joint seperator at AutoZone. It'll look like a big tuning fork or something. It'll be wedge shaped so as you hammer it between the upper arm and the knuckle it'll seperate the two parts. This normally isn't recommended because this will rip the ball joint boot but because you're replacing the ball joint and arm it doesn't matter.
Then just unbolt the upper arm from the car, the nuts are locate inside the engine bay. Replace in reverse order, torque the upper arm nuts to 47 lbs-ft and the ball joint castle nut to 29-35 lbs-ft. Don't forget to get an alignment after your done.
Maybe i need some clarification then. I've got too much camber and im looking at these adjustable ball joints. I knew the ball joint and the upper control arm were one piece, but how would these work?
http://www.racerwheel.com/prg-511011.html
http://www.racerwheel.com/prg-511011.html
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in your case yes, but for what the OP is trying to do, no. The OP is just trying to replace a stock part and the easiest to do that is to just buy a stock arm/ball joint assembly and replace the whole thing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soon2bdropped »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">castle nut for the upper BJ is stripped i don't know what to do at this point..</TD></TR></TABLE>If the nut is stripped, you can still back it down. it is a tapered thread. JUst compress the joint back together tightly and unscrew the nut.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuperSlow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the nut is stripped, you can still back it down. it is a tapered thread. </TD></TR></TABLE>
no, the thread isn't tapered, the ground shaft above the thread is tapered though.
I have some Craftsman Bolt-Out sockets that I've used to get stripped nuts off the exhaust-to-cat flange when we did a friends exhaust. They worked great, you could give those a shot.
no, the thread isn't tapered, the ground shaft above the thread is tapered though.
I have some Craftsman Bolt-Out sockets that I've used to get stripped nuts off the exhaust-to-cat flange when we did a friends exhaust. They worked great, you could give those a shot.
damn this didn't even take 10 mins to change..... jack car up take wheels off.. take the 2 17mm bolts under the hood off..... take an AIR CHISEL(omg best tool ever my boy let me borrow it) split the nut down the middle.. bam take out upper control arm put in new... time only took 25 minutes for 1st timer...
thanks you guys
anybody use alot of air tools i need help on pickin up an air ratchet.. my aim screen name is "airidein2years" without the quotes.. thanks alot
thanks you guys
anybody use alot of air tools i need help on pickin up an air ratchet.. my aim screen name is "airidein2years" without the quotes.. thanks alot
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black Ex Coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Glad to hear you got it changed, but I was wondering how much you paid for the new uca? </TD></TR></TABLE>
I paid around 200 bucks from autozone for both of them. Took me about 45 minutes in the auto zone parking lot
I paid around 200 bucks from autozone for both of them. Took me about 45 minutes in the auto zone parking lot
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