K guys.. i haven't logged on in so long i forgot my old sn and password .. i'm not new to the scene or anything.. but i'd like some input..

i have 97 itr #101.. i have a budget of 7,000 .. i'm staying NA.. i've had my bought with forced induction.. no more.

i want a b20 block .. i'm doing this as a build for street.. but also as a rebuild for the car period. I have had it for 5 years and it has 205k original miles. so spill it at me. Suggestions.. tips.. ideas.. products.. companies.. i'm taking this extremely serious as my type-r is my <3 lol


thanx

 

200k mile club! Congrats

 

Oh and a pic if it helps motivate you guys..

 

go all motor and buy my used RM m22x's and My DTR B-unit header....

 

At the rate these things get stolen you might as well just leave $7k in a briefcase on the front seat and wait for the day to come.

I would continue to maintain it and make repairs as needed save yourself the financial risk and headaches. Its a good looking example you have. Happy motoring!

 

Rebuild to stock specs Invest the rest or throw at the house.

I can tell I'm getting old with these types of responses

 

I sent you a PM.... also a bump for you.

 

Resleeve versus getting a B20 block.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M3BimmerBilly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">At the rate these things get stolen you might as well just leave $7k in a briefcase on the front seat and wait for the day to come.

I would continue to maintain it and make repairs as needed save yourself the financial risk and headaches. Its a good looking example you have. Happy motoring! </TD></TR></TABLE>

I think even though I know the theft rates of an ITR... If I drove an R up to 200k in my city then I'd probably not be AS paranoid.

But to the OP, how fast are you trying to be exactly ? 12's ? 13's ?

 

I have been running a sleeved B18 85mm on my '97 for the past two years and enjoy every second of it.

You don't need to go too wild. $7k is a good chunk of change.

PM me if you are interested in going this route.

 

^^^ He had also helped in my last R which went from turbo to a moderately built N/A setup.

It's all relative in what you want to do. Remember to tune it well.

 

nice 200k club WOW 7g's to spend wow!

 

yea guys thanx for the responses. Basically the time as come to either park the R in the garage and take the tags off ( buy a new daily driver ) but i'm an extremely spoiled human.. concidering i have owned a R for a very long time. I can't go out and buy a kia. So instead of financing a 15-20k car for 5 years or something, i am taking a 7k loan to rebuild what i have.
Yes.. to answer a few of your questions about which i'd rather do.. stay stock block and sleeve.. or go b20... well i'm open for options.. i'd like to make the most power for the buck. I am definitly interested in staying with my b18 block and doing more head work.. but i know thats probably the more expensive route.. if you guys can give me some round about estimates for what the power gains and headwork/block mods would be needed or had.

rock on with the posts.. my first payment on the loan is next month so i wanna get my R in the shop

 

since i'm this noob on the forums.. my pm's are activated.. so i didn't get anything from ya.. thanx tho


and i can't pm anyone else either.. 98mm sleeved n/a guy

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97itr101 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> instead of financing a 15-20k car for 5 years or something, i am taking a 7k loan to rebuild what i have.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If that car gets stolen you are fucked. Basically add an unrecoverable $7k to whatever else debt you owe on it already and subtract about $7300 (if you have comprehensive w/$500 deductable $7800 is about bank value on a 200k ol 97 R) and thats the balance of debt youre in. Unless you get an itemized insurance policy for the additions youve done to the car (youll pay a premium for this service). Im doubtful any insurance agency cover the full cost of expenses + value of the car you have put into it at this point.

If you had to finance a car, at least if it where totaled for whatever reason you get a greater percentage back or the entire value of the loan if you took up additional insurance to cover the difference between loan and the value of the car (you can do this but it costs extra)

Either way financially speaking you are digging a massive hole. And as I said before, you might as well take that $7k and leave it on the front seat. This has got to be one of the most ill-concieved and risky financial plans ive ever heard of.

best of luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M3BimmerBilly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This has got to be one of the most ill-concieved and risky financial plans ive ever heard of.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't quite understand your point. It is very easy to get a car appraised by an independent appraiser. With all the money invested in my car, I had an appraiser go over the car and I provided reciepts, now my car is appraised at $24,500, and my insurance company recognized this value and adjusted my premiums to reflect the added value. So if my car gets stollen or totalled in an accident, I get a check cut for $24,500 no questions asked.

There are a number of independent vehicle appraisers that are recognized by insurance companies, best idea is to talk to your agent and have him recommend one.

As for building your engine... I would recommend sending your block out to be sleeved and assembled, and spend the extra money on good boltons instead of headwork.

I had my 2.0L block sleeved and assembled (including the cost of all parts and labor) for $3,000

With the remaining money, purchase a good 2.0L header, intake manifold, throttlebody and get the car tuned.

If you want more details, feel free to Email me - MarshMPH@Yahoo.com

 

I'd recommend headwork and rebuild the block.

One of the ITR owners (not sure if he still has it) had a stock block C5, Rocket Motorsports headwork, RM M22X cams, SMSP header, RM ported AEBS IM, Hondata S200, and made 238whp on Chruches dynapack. This is close to Marshalls build minus the added torque he has from the big bore.

There are quite a few bolt on ITR that make good power with no block or headwork.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have been running a sleeved B18 85mm on my '97 for the past two years and enjoy every second of it.

You don't need to go too wild. $7k is a good chunk of change.

PM me if you are interested in going this route.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Once your out of Newb status, I would highly recommend talking to this guy. Marshall, AKA 92TypeR has one of the finest built NA cars I know of. That, or you could talk to user Bradstard. Between the 2 of them, I'm sure they'll have more than enough info to keep you busy.

GL with the project, whatever route you take.

 

no one suggested a K swap?

 

1.. i'm not getting a k series swap..
2.. I didnt ask to be flamed about spending 7k on my car.. i'm sorry you guys don't live int he country with nothing to worry about.. i'm also sorry that my cars been paid off for a good while now..
3... thanx for the posts lol.. i've decided to keep the b18 block.. sleeves, pistons, rods..

mild headwork....

4... I'll keep my fart-can.. its RS-R Exmag GTII, and i'd rather die in a fire than (slam) my R.. thanxkbye lol