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Power Stearing and AC removal...?

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Old Mar 6, 2007 | 02:12 AM
  #1  
dezerte's Avatar
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From: Walla Walla, WA, US
Default Power Stearing and AC removal...?

I tried to search for PS removal, but the best I could come up with is this thread: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1904360 which would be great if it actually shared any information. Anybody have any info on proper PS removal? I've done it once before But it was on an FC3S
Any help would be great!

Any info on proper AC removal would be nice as well.
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Old Mar 6, 2007 | 02:41 AM
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Default Re: Power Stearing and AC removal...? (dezerte)

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=462824 for power steering removal. I would get all the parts from pegasus then just make the rest of the line from the rack out of fuel line (3/8") and tee it back into a resivour that mounts on the firewall or where ever. This is what mine looked like, cost me like $55-60 and it really feels nice.



https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1432961 for a/c removal. Just remove anything thats in the diagrams. Also DONT release your freon into the atmosphere. That **** killz yo! Get a place to do it for you should cost like 10 bucks. If you live somewhere warm I would disagree with removal. My RS was already setup with no A/C, plus I live in Alaska...go figure. G'luck
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Old Mar 6, 2007 | 04:04 AM
  #3  
Jack ffr1846's Avatar
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Default Re: Power Stearing and AC removal...? (dezerte)

I've done it 2 ways and both ways worked fine. Way easier than the above picture. Remove everything and put a rubber line to simply loop the 2 lines from the rack together. No need for the resevoir. With this method, the fluid that remains in the rack is only there for lubrication and you don't need much.

The other way is to simply leave the lines open. If you plan to drive your car another 100k miles, the dirt might hurt things, but otherise, it doesn't make much of a difference.

If you really want to go farther, open up the rack and remove the valve. This eliminates all the resistance that a power rack gives you when you depower the rack. I've never done this as it's more work than I felt like doing.

I've done the 2 first methods on a Mustang rack in a street car and a Neon rack on a racecar with good results both times.

jack
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Old Mar 6, 2007 | 04:22 AM
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Default

AC isn't too bad to remove...just evacuate the system and start pulling things apart. PS on the other hand was required a little more thinking.....on my setup, i just removed the pump and looped the two hoses together. I didn't have the option of doing it as shown above. It works just fine too.....
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Old Mar 6, 2007 | 09:22 AM
  #5  
dezerte's Avatar
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Default Re: (Schister66)

Thanks for the diagram and replies, it's greatly appreciated. One question though, What's the point of the reservoir? When I removed it on my FC, I just took the lines out and turned the wheel back and forth to get rid of some of the fluid, and then put bolts in the rack holes.
Just thought I'd ask. I'm unable to view that link for some reason so my answer may be in there, so I'll try it again in a few minutes.
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Old Mar 6, 2007 | 12:28 PM
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Default Re: (dezerte)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dezerte &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the diagram and replies, it's greatly appreciated. One question though, What's the point of the reservoir? When I removed it on my FC, I just took the lines out and turned the wheel back and forth to get rid of some of the fluid, and then put bolts in the rack holes.
Just thought I'd ask. I'm unable to view that link for some reason so my answer may be in there, so I'll try it again in a few minutes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The reservoir is a breather for the system. If you think about it that system being locked up with no place for trapped air bubbles to get out, would make it really hard to turn the wheel. This way it actually lets it breath. Making the wheel easier to turn.
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