Inspired by the thread-that-wouldn't-die, I eventually got around to removing my power steering pump and hoses and installing a loopback and breather system. I had been running without the belt for about a year and was getting tired of the parallel parking dramas.

I used the Tilton remote reservoir parts listed in the original thread and decided to go with Aeroquip socketless hose and fittings for the loopback and breather connections.

The rack high pressure inlet is female metric size M14x1.5mm. The existing fitting cannot be reused because it as attached to a flared hard line. The two-part hosenow.com adapter listed in the original thread will do the job here. It converts the M14x1.5 female fitting into a barbed fitting. Another possibility is an Aeroquip M14x1.5 to -6AN adapter used with a -6AN socketless hose end.

The rack low pressure outlet is M16x1.5. Fortunately, the stock barbed fitting in this outlet is attached to a rubber line so can be reused.

To construct the loopback and breather system I attached one end of a -6AN female swivel adapter (FCM2915) to the 14x1.5 to -6AN adapter (FCM2240) on the high pressure rack inlet and attached a -6AN union tee (FCM2062) to the other end of the swivel adapter. I then attached a -6AN socketless straight hose end (FCM1512) to the middle of the tee for the remote reservoir line, and put a socketless 180 degree -6AN hose end (FCM1562) on the other end of the tee. Using a length of hose, I connected this hose end to the stock barb fitting on the low pressure outlet forming a loop. I used Aeroquip -6AN socketless hose (FBV0600) for the loopback line and the line to the remote reservoir.

Here is the resulting solution. I used the Hosenow adapter - I found out after I had ordered it that an equivalent (and cheaper) Aeroquip part was available. The adjustable clamp was taken off the stock power steering lines.



I installed the Tilton reservoir on the front of the engine mount bracket. Unlike the original thread, I could not mount on the shock tower because I have a master cylinder brace mounted there.



Steering effort compared to removing the belt is significantly reduced. I can now let other people drive my car without getting funny looks from them afterwards.

I will fully admit that this solution is over-engineered. The high quality Aeroquip fitings are overkill since there is no pressure in the system. A few dollars worth of hose and a plastic tee from Pep Boys with the hosenow.com/Aeroquip adapter would work just as well. However, we are only talking about a price of difference of ~$30 between the low-buck and high-buck solution.

Here is the complete order list from Racer Parts Wholesale (http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/). If you already have the Hosenow parts, you will not need FCM1512 in this list (which is a slightly higher quality version of part #FBM1222 from Hosenow) and FCM2240 (the M14x1.5 to -6AN adapter, which is equivalent to Hosenow part #15.117-6-6S).
FCM1512 -6 St.Hose End $3.35 ea. 1 $3.35
adapter FCM2240 metric adapter $8.09 ea. 1 $8.09
-6 adapter FCM2062 adapter $6.87 ea. 1 $6.87
Aeroquip Socketless Hose FBV0600 $2.82 ea. 3 $8.46
FCM1562 -6 180 Hose End $13.34 ea. 1 $13.34
FCM2915 -6 swivel adapter $8.24 ea. 1 $8.24

Order Subtotal: $48.35

You might also want to buy Aeroquip hose assembly lube to attach the aluminum fittings to each other and to attach the hose ends to the barbed fittings. I also used a some teflon thread sealant on the power steering rack threads.

The parts needed for the Tilton reservoir are listed in the original thread.


Modified by norice at 11:58 AM 7/9/2003

 

If you would like I could add your post to the bottom of mine or link it in the first one

Mattj

 

Sounds good.

 

This is a great idea....

However the rack on my DA has 4 lines going into it, not two. I imagine two of them are for the speed sensor and the other two go to-from the pump - should I just loop both of them? Which one do i vent?

 

I gotta post a pic of mine now.. so you can make it look like a preeschool project.

 

Don't know the answer to this. A Helms may give you the answer. The only reason that this solution is required on a DC-2 is that the PS fluid also lubricates the rack. Some people running without any fluid have reported problems after several months. You may not need any fluid at all in a DA if it does not serve to lubricate the rack.

 

thank you for taking the time to post this.

I guess a trip to the local Nascar shops will be on order for early next week... P/S = off for the Exb0.

 

Yes thanks for the write up

---I understand the whole setup and am probably going to do it to my car very soon, i actually just took a look at everything in my car

BUT i have one question what do you do with the sensor that is inline with the hose running to the pump and what is its function??



[Modified by NeXtLeVeL_TyPe_R, 12:48 AM 4/3/2003]

 

the sensor can be removed... it sends a signal to the ECU to bump the idle up when the fluid pressure is increased.

 

I'm pretty sure the pump lubricates the rack. Maybe i'll leave two of the lines in? I need to go out and take a closer look when its not dark out.

RJ

 

Thanks Willard -- I assume this wouldnt affect the check engine light - right?
Not that my bulb is in there but i wanna put it back in the cluster soon as a precaution

 

how is the steering effort in this set up compare to an oem manual steering rack?

 

Just a little feedback for those of you considering this mod. I run my racecar w/o power steering. I think it feels great just looped. The only time it's really tough is in the paddock.

I can do 3 days in a row of track time and not feel beat up by the steering. Don't get me wrong, it will kick hard at bumps and camber changes, but it's not hard to take control of if you are in shape. I absolutely LOVE the feel of no power steering. You can really tell what's going on under the tires.

Warren

 

he couldn't have said it any better. I used to have the Tilton reservoir but took it out when i put in the MC brace. Haven't looked back

 

any maintenance issues with this setup..like w/ power steering fluid or
anything...

 

so whats the verdict? more or less steering effort than stock manual racks?

 

There should be no maintenance issues with this setup. Assuming the initial connections are solid, this setup should last the lIfetime of the car. Aeroquip hoses are of very high quality - much higher quality that the OEM hoses.

i filled the power steering fluid to the bottom of the reservoir and turned the steering wheel a few times (with the car on jack stands) to get air out of the system. After an initial road test, the level dropped somewhat so I filled it up to the bottom of the reservoir again. The level seems to be stable now.


[Modified by norice, 10:23 AM 4/3/2003]

 

hi norice. I tried to IM u, but u disabled it.

I'm from the bay area. Exactly where did you get the tilton reservoir? exaclty what parts are needed for this reservoir? i looked into the original thread but coudln't find out which parts are needed.

 

Warren, i have one questionn about the looping

I tok everything out and am up to that part did you just loop it right there or did you try to drain fluid from the rack first??

 

.RJ, yeah the 2 extra lines seem to be fore the speed sensor. Please let us know (g2ic) if you've done something like this (itr PS removal) to your DA. What a few socal guys did was just cap off the 2 main lines and run like that.

 

That's the blingenest power steering removal I've ever seen

I've been kind of debating getting rid of mine, I really liked the steering in my old CRX.

 

Thats what i seemed to gather from looking at the helms. I could cap off the speed sensor lines since they're useless and then l00p the remaining lines (to/from the pump) with some pimpy fittings and t00bs as detailed in the other posts.

This will probably happen in a month or two, i need to get the car ready for expo this week and then exams come up shortly afterwards.

RJ

 

While the system isn't pressurized per se, there is still some pressure formed when the wheel is turned and the fluid is forced from one end of the rack through the loop to the other end. I found that this pressue caused the reservoir that I was initially using (a stock Honda clutch fluid reservoir) to leak from the cap. Have you found any such problems with the Tilton, or is it designed in such a way as to dampen this pressure when it enters the reservior?

 

They are listed in the first thread. To wit:

PEGASUS AUTO RACING SUPPLIES - (800) 688-6946
Shopping Cart Contents
Part No Description Price Pkg Qty. Delete
3564 MASTER CYLINDER CAP REPLACEMENT THREADED UNIVERSAL 5.00 Each
3558-SMALL MASTER CYLINDER RESERVOIR REPLACMENT SMALL UNIVERSAL 8.00 Each
3557 MASTER CYLINDER MOUNTING BRACKET REMOTE RESERVOIR REPLACEMENT 9.00 Each
3563 MASTER CYLINDER INLET FITTING REPLACMENT REMOTE MOUNTS ON MASTER CYL 5.19 Each
3577 RESERVOIR CLAMP REPLACEMENT OR REMOTE INLET 2.00 Each
Number of Items: 5 Total Cost: $29.19

 

I have not yet seen overflow. However, I filled the fluid to the very bottom of the reservoir, well below the LOW fill line. The reservoir is acting as a breather to allow for the expansion of the fluid so does not need a 'reserve' of fluid.