cv axle issue
I've been searching this site for a while now and i cant seem to find any write ups on changing your axles. Mine are starting to click on both sides so i was hoping that someone may have a link or has a write up for it and how simple it is to do yourself. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have a write up with pictures, but because George Knighton claims I'm "Stupid and never help anyone", I've decided not to give it to Honda-Tech as I gave all the below listed links to them, that I pay for the webspace.
Sorry, you can ask Boy George for a write up with pictures.
I'm sure he has WATCHED the job being done.
Sorry, you can ask Boy George for a write up with pictures.
I'm sure he has WATCHED the job being done.
Alright. Not sure if the hub over rotor thing makes the 5th gen any different from the 6th gen accords, but here's what I remember...
36mm for the large hub nut. A big breaker bar will do the trick, but an impact wrench makes it 10 times easier. There might be a few smaller nuts to remove to make room so you can swing the hub assembly and upper control arm out of the way to pull the axle out later on. You have to remove the damper fork bolt (17mm i believe) to pull the axle out. Remove the nut holding the lower control arm assembly, and you might rent a ball joint puller from your autoparts store to separate the joint like in the picture.

At this point, you should be able to gently knock the axle out of the hub, and pull the hub assembly out of the way. Remove the axle. Reverse should be just the opposite, but be sure not to let the new axles just hang. User a coat hanger or some wire to hang them up, or a second set of hands if available.
This thread has some scattered info in it, but it should help a bit.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=440790
94-97 Accord Haynes manuals are almost always in stock at parts stores. This process is simple enough to follow along in the manual quite easily, and the book is much cheaper than the labor. If you watch someone do this for you, you'll be kicking yourself for not doing it on your own. Good luck.
36mm for the large hub nut. A big breaker bar will do the trick, but an impact wrench makes it 10 times easier. There might be a few smaller nuts to remove to make room so you can swing the hub assembly and upper control arm out of the way to pull the axle out later on. You have to remove the damper fork bolt (17mm i believe) to pull the axle out. Remove the nut holding the lower control arm assembly, and you might rent a ball joint puller from your autoparts store to separate the joint like in the picture.

At this point, you should be able to gently knock the axle out of the hub, and pull the hub assembly out of the way. Remove the axle. Reverse should be just the opposite, but be sure not to let the new axles just hang. User a coat hanger or some wire to hang them up, or a second set of hands if available.
This thread has some scattered info in it, but it should help a bit.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=440790
94-97 Accord Haynes manuals are almost always in stock at parts stores. This process is simple enough to follow along in the manual quite easily, and the book is much cheaper than the labor. If you watch someone do this for you, you'll be kicking yourself for not doing it on your own. Good luck.
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[QUOTE=AFAccord]Maybe George is referring to all your post like the one above?
QUOTE]
Perhaps you judge others without the facts sir. If Mr Hondadude is paying for the information to be available to help others, then perhaps Mr Knighton has acted in a rude manner by giving forth an insult to a person that helps others.
QUOTE]
Perhaps you judge others without the facts sir. If Mr Hondadude is paying for the information to be available to help others, then perhaps Mr Knighton has acted in a rude manner by giving forth an insult to a person that helps others.
Or perhaps I'm a keen observer, and I observe hondadude post many replies simply complaining about George, while never actually helping the OP, just as he has done in the post above.
Hondadude has beef with another member, but whether for a good reason or not, he simply chooses to taint each of his posts by beginning with his rant about George. This only further sustains the point George was possibly trying to convey in the first place.
I don't know. I'm not involved in their tiff with one another, I'm simply stating the obvious that from an outsider's point of view, I only see Hondadude pressing the issue on, after it appears to have been mute. Seems quite childish to me.
Just my observations...
accord2021, did you have anything to add to help Marc out? I'm sure I overlooked something.
Hondadude has beef with another member, but whether for a good reason or not, he simply chooses to taint each of his posts by beginning with his rant about George. This only further sustains the point George was possibly trying to convey in the first place.
I don't know. I'm not involved in their tiff with one another, I'm simply stating the obvious that from an outsider's point of view, I only see Hondadude pressing the issue on, after it appears to have been mute. Seems quite childish to me.
Just my observations...
accord2021, did you have anything to add to help Marc out? I'm sure I overlooked something.
Alright, I'm just going to run through the removal real quick since I don't want to chop up your post^.
1. take off the hub cover.
2. Unstake the nut on the shaft and use a breaker bar to loosen the nut. It makes it a lot easier if you do the first two steps and then jack it up.
3. Jack it, jackstands if you have them.
4. Take the driveaxle nut the rest of the way off, using a prybar between the wheel studs to keep the hub from turning while you take the nut off.
5. Drain tranny fluid.
6. Disconnect shock absorber and fork from lower control arm
7. separate lower control arm from steering knuckle
8. Swing the knuckle and hub out of the way, support it with wire so it's not just hanging there.
9. Use a large flat screwdriver to pry the axle out of the transmission. Be sure and keep the axle straight until the splines are all the way out so you don't mess up the transmission innards.
That's pretty much it for taking it out, be sure and use a new spring clip on the new axle, and be sure the old one comes out with the old axle, and isn't left in the transmission. Be sure not to pull on the new axle if at all possible so you don't mess up the CV joints inside the boots. If you need any more specifics just ask and I can elaborate.
As a side note, if you mess up those stupid clamps that hold the CV boots to the axle but nothing else is wrong with your CV joint, you can use a big zip tie to snug up the boot to the axle, and just cut it as close as possible. Mines held up for at least a year now, and you can't even tell.
1. take off the hub cover.
2. Unstake the nut on the shaft and use a breaker bar to loosen the nut. It makes it a lot easier if you do the first two steps and then jack it up.
3. Jack it, jackstands if you have them.
4. Take the driveaxle nut the rest of the way off, using a prybar between the wheel studs to keep the hub from turning while you take the nut off.
5. Drain tranny fluid.
6. Disconnect shock absorber and fork from lower control arm
7. separate lower control arm from steering knuckle
8. Swing the knuckle and hub out of the way, support it with wire so it's not just hanging there.
9. Use a large flat screwdriver to pry the axle out of the transmission. Be sure and keep the axle straight until the splines are all the way out so you don't mess up the transmission innards.
That's pretty much it for taking it out, be sure and use a new spring clip on the new axle, and be sure the old one comes out with the old axle, and isn't left in the transmission. Be sure not to pull on the new axle if at all possible so you don't mess up the CV joints inside the boots. If you need any more specifics just ask and I can elaborate.
As a side note, if you mess up those stupid clamps that hold the CV boots to the axle but nothing else is wrong with your CV joint, you can use a big zip tie to snug up the boot to the axle, and just cut it as close as possible. Mines held up for at least a year now, and you can't even tell.
“Unstake the nut on the shaft and use a breaker bar to loosen the nut”
“using a prybar between the wheel studs to keep the hub from turning while you take the nut off.”
Pictures would really help with these portions if any one has any and I didn’t know that you had to drain the tranny to change your axles
“using a prybar between the wheel studs to keep the hub from turning while you take the nut off.”
Pictures would really help with these portions if any one has any and I didn’t know that you had to drain the tranny to change your axles

You don't "have" to drain the tranny, but the fluid will come pouring out of the axle sockets when you remove them.
Instead of using the prybar, you could get someone to hold the brakes while you break the nut loose.
EDIT: You won't be able to position the bar as I drew in the picture to take the nut off, but you should be able to figure it out.
have a 97 lx and when i changed my axles no tranny fluid came out at all, and the fluid was changed about a year ago so i know there some in there lol. Just thought id put that in there. However the acura we have, tranny fluid did come out once the axles where out, but only from the drivers side axle
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