Ok, I have been digging deeper and deeper into the tuning part and how an engine actually works and i have come across a few questions that i should have known a while ago, but well hey. i guess i missed that day it was covered
1) air fuel ratio. i know its the ratio of air to fuel but, 11.5:1. what does it mean?
2) injectors, a)duty cycle, b)saturated vs. peak and hold, c)ohms, why is the resistance important?
3) timing - more like setting the timing, when i go turbo i will be retarding the timing. its best to do it from the distributor? or is it even possible to do from hondata/aem ems.
4)fuel pump - intank not in tank, what about a second fuel pump so dont have to listen to it hum at a stop light? just turn the big dog on for a race?

ummmmmmm thats about it.
oh a b20/vtec question.
crank pulley, wich one to use? i was told the b20 crank is bigger.

im looking for answers from people who KNOW what there talking about, dyno tuners, and smart people (sGt, vapor trail, cobra, teken, arturbo, dustin etc. etc. dont get butthurt if i didnt list your name heres an ebeer )

thanks everyone
-Joe



[Modified by KAMiN, 11:05 PM 5/21/2002]

 

1) It means 11.5 parts air to 1 part fuel. If you need more of an everyday life example, lets talk alcohol. To make a mixed drink, you would take 1 part Vodka (which could be anything from 1 shot to 1 cup), add 1 part Cranberry juice (but its got to be the 'part' that you used above...if you used 1 shot, you use 1 shot here also). Hopefully the example helped.

2a) The duty cycle is defined by the 'ON' time / 'TOTAL' time that the injector could be on and multiply by 100 to get a percentage. Lets just say, for example, that the injector COULD be held open for 1 sec (not pratical, just example). This would be the total time. Now lets say that the injector is pulsed on for only .5 sec. This would equate to a duty cycle of 50%. [There was someone on here who had a nice chart to help illustrate this better....the name had 'prelude' in it]

2b) Saturated vs. Peak-Hold has to do with the way the injector is fired and held open. Wish that I had a O'scope waveform for you to see this. Peak-Hold, though, are typically more 'accurate' in there fuel delivery.

2c) Ohms: Saturated run about 16 ohms. Peak-Hold run about 4 ohms. Thats why when installing a Peak-Hold injector into a car that had Saturated to begin with, you need to use that resistor box to bring the total resistance back to what it was with the Saturated's.

3) To set the timing (wheres your Helms buddy), you have to short the service connector under the dash, so that the ECU isn't adding any timing to the BASE timing that your about to set. Once this is done, and you start your car, hook up your timing light to the #1 plug wire (inductive pick-up type of timing light is what I use). Aim the light at your crank pulley....you should see some timing marks that seem to stand still as the light goes on/off. To change timing, loosen the distributor a little, turn towards the firewall to advance the timing...away to retard.

4) I would just go with an intank myself, such as the Bosch, Walbro, or even the TT Supra pump that board members have been talking about as a stock replacement (it flows 255lph, same as Bosch/Walbro). IMO, using an inline pump along with a stock pump seems a little off. Reason, your using a higher flow/higher pressure pump to pull through the stock pump (you can only pull so much soda through a straw). Granted, I can't argue with results, as thats what everyone seems to be running....but like I said, I'd go with an intank and be done with it (unless your making big HP, the situation should be handled differently).

Don't know about the B20 Q.

And hey, my butt doesn't hurt.


[Modified by EE_Chris, 1:46 PM 5/22/2002]

 

Good answers, For the fuel pump it depends on your setup. If you are using an FMU, go with an inline. The intanks can flow enough fuel for big HP, but not at higher pressures. If you're using some kind of engine management and not too much boost, an intank will work great. I don't think you will need both unless you're running huge boost.

 

thanks for the replies guys
that answered my questions of course it spawned another one.
fuel pump. (this is important. im going to get this right when i do it hehe)
heres what im shooting for
fully built b20/vtec running about 7-10psi daily and 15~psi at the track. so would a good 700-1000LPH intank pump be sufficent? im planning on hondata or the aem ems (no idea what one yet) with 510cc rc injectors(may go bigger).

 

tTt

 

help me newbie ***!

 

Kamin, you should be thankful for getting answers at all.. but instead, your picking people out and giving permission to them to answer you... wow your spoiled.. i bet your the type that has "mommy and daddy" buy everything for you

 

excuse me? mommy and daddy? BITCH i have purchased EVERY part on my car except 1 thing. I work DAMN HARD for my money and i dont take **** from NEWBIES like you. The reason i said that is because i dont want speculation from the little trolls that run around this forum i wanted an ANSWER. dont EVER say **** like that to me again

 

Kamin, I am almost positive a big intank like that would be sufficient for your needs, although most setups I have seen for big boost applications use inlines. I'm not sure why. 15 psi is big boost in my books.
Good luck.