Just ordered an Exedy stage 1 with an Exedy flywheel as a package deal, but I was wondering if I'd be better off using the Fidanza 7.5 lbs aluminum flywheel that I originally wanted. Will I even be able to tell the difference between the two? Should I have gotten the Fidanza?

 

I actually have the same Exedy clutch and lightend flywheel kit installed on my 92 Ls. I was going to go the same route with the 7.5 lb. Fidanza but I chose the Exedy because of the fact that it is made out of 4130 cromemoly steel which has less of a tendency to warp compared to aluminum flywheel. The Fidanza is made out of aluminum and probably is easier to warp. The kit work great. I was running a 15.6 quarters w/ the original clutch and I installed the Exedy clutch/flywheel and a Kamakazi 4-2-1 header along with the existing intake, crank pulley, wires, plugs, weight reduction, etc. and pulled 14.8s all night long with a B18A1 w/ stock internals.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thatwhiteguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just ordered an Exedy stage 1 with an Exedy flywheel as a package deal, but I was wondering if I'd be better off using the Fidanza 7.5 lbs aluminum flywheel that I originally wanted. Will I even be able to tell the difference between the two? Should I have gotten the Fidanza?</TD></TR></TABLE>

7.5 will make the car less driveable. It will make it idle rougher, and it will be harder to drive in general. Shifting normally, downshifting, and taking off from a stoplight will have to be relearned (with either flywheel..but more so with the lighter one). Driving the car hard will be easier, though. Shifting fast/hard, as far as acceleration will be naturally easier.

 

it definately takes getting used to, as having a dramatic reduction in drivetrain weight will free up lots of torque, and if you do aluminum pulleys and take off your PS and AC belts when you dyno/race and run light weight wheels you will have maximum torque transfered to the ground.

on the downside, it can make the idle bounce a tiny bit, but if the engine is running well its not a big deal. and the revs drop just as fast as they shoot up so its just a matter of getting used to driving that way.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

7.5 will make the car less driveable. It will make it idle rougher, and it will be harder to drive in general. Shifting normally, downshifting, and taking off from a stoplight will have to be relearned (with either flywheel..but more so with the lighter one). Driving the car hard will be easier, though. Shifting fast/hard, as far as acceleration will be naturally easier. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Seriously, Gtfo

Because that is complete bullshit, I went from the stock fly, to a 7lb fidanza,
and there is DEFINITELY not a whole new "driving" technique that needs to be learned.

And rough idle?? Wtf?? Plain, and simple, a lightweight flywheel does NOT make a car "less drivable".

 

it makes it different for sure, so don't freak out because people disagree with you.

light flywheels have less momentum than stock flywheels. stock flywheels make everything very smooth, and thats why they are heavy.

 

I have the Exedy stage 2 clutch (3 puck, sprung center), with an Exedy flywheel... I notice the clutch, but the flywheel has not had any negative impact on daily driving. I supose it is theoretically easier to stall with a lighter flywheel (as there is less initial torque transfered to the wheels), but really isn't bad with the Exedy's 9.36 pound weight. I do prefer the steel vs aluminum flywheel (as the crank is steel, thus allowing the metals to expand and contract at similar rates), and think that the Exedy flywheel makes for a very solid and reliable daily driver.

 

Thanks for all the input guys

After reading this I'm gonna go ahead and stick with the Exedy rather than selling it to buy a fidanza

Can't wait for the kit to come in, i'm sick of my current clutch haha

 

I have a fidanza 7lb and its not bad. Its not a pain to drive either.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CleanLikeJdm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Seriously, Gtfo

Because that is complete bullshit, I went from the stock fly, to a 7lb fidanza,
and there is DEFINITELY not a whole new "driving" technique that needs to be learned.

And rough idle?? Wtf?? Plain, and simple, a lightweight flywheel does NOT make a car "less drivable". </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm definitely going to agree with you here. I read a whole lot of bullshit about how a 7lbs flywheel would completely change how I drive, and that it was TOO light, and my idle would go almost stall because it was so light.

It's all 100% bullshit from people who haven't had a lightweight flywheel. I just installed mine 3 weeks ago, and I didn't even need to get used to it. Right off the driveway after installing it and a new clutch, I found the throttle to be much more responsive and easier overall to driving and shift.

My idle is perfect, no hiccups, no dips, never anything less than a hair under set idle speed for more than a split second.

Driving in traffic now is even easier! The only negative I'd have to say about it is the minor loss in momentum up hills. Just an excuse for me to give it a wee bit more throttle.

Overall, really I was surprised that driving with a 7lbs flywheel generally the same as driving with a 18+lbs flywheel. Took no time to get used to.

 

ive driven my buddies teg with a lightened flywheel all the time and it was just like driving mine i realized almost no difference.

 

The controversy within the 2 clutches is mainly strength. I went and asked around before i bought mine from a few different shops in the Greater Vancouver area and if you are trying to plant alot of power stay away from aluminum flys. Fidanza has a tendency to shatter so people that have them play safe with scatter shields. i would stick with the more durable chromoly exedy. I ended up closing the deal with an Action Lightweight flywheel.

the most you'll notice is revs, responsive acceleration and the revs drop faster than stock

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aaronhume &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it makes it different for sure, so don't freak out because people disagree with you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by danvuquoc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's all 100% bullshit from people who haven't had a lightweight flywheel. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Because people disagree?? No, because most people haven't done **** with lightweight flys,
and then voice their opinion when all they know is what they have Heard..


What he said was complete ****, when I put my 7lb fidanza in,
there was no kind of bullshit that everyone speaks of,
engine condition are exactly the same, you do Not get rough anything.

So don't try siding with that fool, when he has no idea what he's talking about.

False opinion is that it does horrible things to your car, So why don't we spread some more??

 

I have a lightweight toda flywheel. Its chromoly steel and i think it weighs around 8 or 9 lbs. The only thing I had to change was when shifting u gotta gas it a little in between gears to keep the revs from dropping off too quick. If you don't I suppose it would probably put more stress on the synchros in your tranny if you let the revs drop while shifting in between gears.

 

haha if anything the faster dropping revs would help me, cause right now when I shift from 1st to 2nd I have to wait a good while for it to land at the right RPM for second... (my clutch is somewhat fucked up so if I don't rev match my upshifts it's jerky)

it's normal for the drop in RPMs from 1st to 2nd be about 1.5k RPMs in a GSR right? and then from 2nd through 5th it's ~900-1k rpm drop? and I mean when shifting at ~3k RPM.

 

I think it is definatly a good mod.