ok I just bought a brake booster and master cylinder off a guy and this is what I recieved!!!!why I hate doing business with over the net well...what can I do to fix this problem...I cleaned it all up so can see where its leaking from inbetween the booster and master cylinder...

 

bump

 

Ive never taken one apart, but Im assuming there are seals inside of there that you can replace/rebuild. Or you can buy a new one. But one things for sure, dont put that **** in your car with out knowing that its fixed.

 

anyone have a guide how to bleed master cylinder if I get a remanufactered one...cause I thought you only had to bleed lines...never had to do booster or mc

 

Bench bleed it: Put it in a vise or somethign to hold it. Fill with fluid. Cover the line holes with your fingers good and then push in the rod to push the fluid into theMC and the air out, repeat a few times.

After that, put it on the car before all the fluid leaks out and connect the lines. Then have someone pump the brakes and then hold while you crack open the lines to let that air out. Repeat a few times and then you'll be good to go.

Or if you must without bench bleeding(makes it faster and easier), you can just do the second part, but do it like 10 times.

 

thats one thing I dont have!!! how else can I bleed MC if I dont have a vice....I have speed bleeders on my car so I dont have to open and shut them :-) just crack them and pump away....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PACT man &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bench bleed it: Put it in a vise or something to hold it. Fill with fluid. Cover the line holes with your fingers good and then push in the rod to push the fluid into theMC and the air out, repeat a few times.

After that, put it on the car before all the fluid leaks out and connect the lines. Then have someone pump the brakes and then hold while you crack open the lines to let that air out. Repeat a few times and then you'll be good to go.

Or if you must without bench bleeding(makes it faster and easier), you can just do the second part, but do it like 10 times.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

was told it wont get all air out if i do it the second way!!...so I dont know what to believe

 

I did the 2nd way today and worked fine.

 

anyone else????

 

get 2 new steel lines that are the same thread as in the master. you hook the 2 lines up to the master and bend them so they go back into the top of the master. just fill the master with brake fluid and just pump it with it off the car. the fluid goes back into the top with every pump so you dont waste fluid. just keep pumping till the air is out then take off the new lines and install in the car. then rebleed the whole car. if you dont bench bleed you will get a lot of air in the lines and its not all that easy to get out sometimes. Also I would recommend getting some ATE super blue fluid this way you know when all the old stuff has been bled out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get 2 new steel lines that are the same thread as in the master. you hook the 2 lines up to the master and bend them so they go back into the top of the master. just fill the master with brake fluid and just pump it with it off the car. the fluid goes back into the top with every pump so you dont waste fluid. just keep pumping till the air is out then take off the new lines and install in the car. then rebleed the whole car. if you dont bench bleed you will get a lot of air in the lines and its not all that easy to get out sometimes. Also I would recommend getting some ATE super blue fluid this way you know when all the old stuff has been bled out. </TD></TR></TABLE>I dont have a vice :-(

 

You would of been better off buying one local that way you could have seen what you were buying.

 

ok, So I took off old MC and looked inside booster and it was dry and I also turned it up side down to see if any fluide would come out but nope. So I just went and got a new master cylinder and put it on and tried to bleed the MC out when it was on car without the main lines attached...pump for awhile and gave up so I put the lines and and bled the air out of all them and the pedal is firm as can be. I just wondering could there still be air in MC???besides that it all went well just a pain in the *** to get to one the bolts on booster :-)

 

also I didnt replace the seal between master cylinder and booster cause new one didnt come with one...but that doesn't stop fluide right????isnt the master cylinder closed up with a seal inside???

 

If that seal goes bad I think you get that leak like you had before. Also you dont need a vice to bench bleed it just use some muscle.

 

well Jimmy if I order seal from dealer can I just pull MC away from booster and slip it on or will air get in there???

 

yes, Im not sure what that gasket does but it is there for a reason. every new master I have gotten came with a new one of those seals.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes, Im not sure what that gasket does but it is there for a reason. every new master I have gotten came with a new one of those seals. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Probably a dust shield.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RockWolf &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Probably a dust shield.</TD></TR></TABLE> Your are right :-)....talked to my step-dad and he said its a dust shield only to keep moister and dirt out of it

 

That seal doesn't keep fluid from leaking, there is another seal behind a C-clip on the MC to do that. I just replaced that seal, its only a few bucks from the dealership. And I guess you've already found out that no air will not get in.