GC/koni yellow spring rates
i originally posted this in the suspension forum but dont seem to be gettin much response so hopfully i can get some help here.
I have been looking into purchasing a new suspension set up and the koni/GC seem to be the best bet in price and performance. I am curious what spring rates ppl are using on their ef hatch/crx. Im thinking about doing a 400/350 with GC tophats and ST rear sway bar. I want somthing that can handle on the streets while on occasion being able to hit up some back roads. I like a stiff yet comfy ride. I also have a b series swap if that really makes much difference in weight.
PS- do u recommend gettin the shocks revalved or is that necessary for a spring rate this low? in the future i would like to get into road racing and such.
i have searched and looked at many ppls setups and just want some personal feedback-- thanks in advance
I have been looking into purchasing a new suspension set up and the koni/GC seem to be the best bet in price and performance. I am curious what spring rates ppl are using on their ef hatch/crx. Im thinking about doing a 400/350 with GC tophats and ST rear sway bar. I want somthing that can handle on the streets while on occasion being able to hit up some back roads. I like a stiff yet comfy ride. I also have a b series swap if that really makes much difference in weight.
PS- do u recommend gettin the shocks revalved or is that necessary for a spring rate this low? in the future i would like to get into road racing and such.
i have searched and looked at many ppls setups and just want some personal feedback-- thanks in advance
It really depends on how you want it to handle... Do you want it to understeer or oversteer.
I have koni yellows with 450 lb springs up front and 550 lb springs in the rear (along with a 22mm rear sway bar). It might sound stiff but it's not that bad at all, not to mention I can swing my rear end out like my brother's 240sx...
I have koni yellows with 450 lb springs up front and 550 lb springs in the rear (along with a 22mm rear sway bar). It might sound stiff but it's not that bad at all, not to mention I can swing my rear end out like my brother's 240sx...
Im running 450 in the front and 400 in the rear on my koni's, but havent had a chance to really test out the new setup as of yet. it seems like its good all around choice for street and occasional track day/autox event.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXone »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im running 450 in the front and 400 in the rear on my koni's, but havent had a chance to really test out the new setup as of yet. it seems like its good all around choice for street and occasional track day/autox event. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I've been autocrossing with these rates (and ST rear bar, HF front bar) for quite some time now, and its been very successful. On a CRX with the ST rear bar, you should get some negative camber (like -2) in the rear or you will spin and die unexpectedly.
I've been autocrossing with these rates (and ST rear bar, HF front bar) for quite some time now, and its been very successful. On a CRX with the ST rear bar, you should get some negative camber (like -2) in the rear or you will spin and die unexpectedly.
up for more info- i just want to make sure the ride isnt all too bumpy you know how shitty the roads are here in texas lol
It wont be bad at all with 400f/350r and regular valved koni yellows...it will feel like a modern stock RSX or EP3 suspension... firm but not harsh. Even 450/400 feels acceptable here in Austin, and its well within the range the yellows can handle.
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are u running any kind of camber kit on the front??? i bought some spc balljoints and they would always hit the shock tower.. im looking into the new revo UCA that just came out.
Well my car is a different case. I do have Ingalls camber kits on all 4 corners, but I installed my front and rear kits to get MORE negative camber, since its mainly an autocross car, and occasionaly a commuter.
With GCs you will have complete control over the height and with any reasonable lowering the camber will not be any issue, as long as you get the TOE set to zero. If you lower it too much, you'll run into more problems than its worth.. My rule of thumb, dont let the tops of the tires go up inside the fenders, or you'll have to deal with problems.
With GCs you will have complete control over the height and with any reasonable lowering the camber will not be any issue, as long as you get the TOE set to zero. If you lower it too much, you'll run into more problems than its worth.. My rule of thumb, dont let the tops of the tires go up inside the fenders, or you'll have to deal with problems.
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