How To: ST Swaybar with ASR Brace - EK <56K INTENSE>
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HT White Ops
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From: I see what you did there.
How To: ST Swaybar with ASR Brace - EK <56K INTENSE>
Ok, I finally got around to it. Here's my writeup for a Suspension Techniques 19mm rear sway bar with A-Spec Racing Rear Subframe Brace. 
<u>Tools Needed:</u>
Socket Wrench
12mm Socket
14mm Socket
17mm Socket
14mm Box Wrench
BFH / Rubber Mallet
Breaker Bar
Torque Wrench
Floor Jack
Jackstands
Lugwrench
Cinderblocks / Wood / Low Ramps
PB Blaster
WD-40
Shop Rags
Step 1: Gather All Tools and Supplies
Step 2: Jack up the rear of the car and place jackstands. Remove wheels if wanted, it helps when breaking bolts and crawling around.
Step 3: Remove any existing swaybar hardware (ie, stock bar and brackets).
Later, weak **** ...
Step 4: Loosen the LCA bolt, but don't take it out yet.
Step 5: Remove shock bolt, and rotate the shock 180 degrees, so the welded nut is facing towards the rear of the car. Bolt on the adapter brackets.
Alternate View:
Lets take a time out to look at the ASR Brace. Damn, that's some fine metal.
Oh the thickness, this is what saves your subframe right here
Step 6: Get your new LCA bolt, washer, and brace.
Step 7: Bolt up the brace, but only hand tighten. Do not torque it yet.
Step 8: If you don't have an Si, use the supplied backing plates. Thread the long bolt to the top, and the medium bolt to the middle hole. Don't torque the top one.
Step 9: Torque the middle bolt to 20-25 lbs/ft. Remove the top bolt.
Step 10: Now is a good time to remove your axleback for clearance when working with the swaybar and bushings.
Step 11: Lube up your swaybar bushings and put them on your swaybar. Place the brackets over the bushings.
Step 12: Mount up the swaybar. Put one washer from the ST kit under each ear of the bushing bracket. Thread the bolts, but do not tighten at all.
Step 13: Jack up your suspension from the brake knuckle.
Step 14: Put your endlink together and thread the nylock nut onto the top. Do not tighten.
Step 15: Put your wheels back on, and use cinderblocks, wood, or low ramps to compress the suspension to ride height.
You should be looking about like this:
Step 16: Tighten down your endlinks. Put a wrench on the nylock nut to prevent it from moving. Torque the bolt to 40 lb/ft.
This is also a great time to have you (or your girlfriend in my case) polish up your muffler, tip to tail
Step 17: Ok, time to torque everything to spec. Shake your swaybar back and forth as much as you can to remove any binding. Torque the bushing bracket bolts to 20-25 lb/ft. Remove the blocks from under your wheels so your suspension droops. Tighten your LCA bolts on the subframe to 40 lbs/ft.
Step 18: Put your muffler back on, clean up, and lower your car back down. Enjoy your oversteer!
Any questions or comments welcome
Modified by Eran at 1:27 PM 3/2/2007
<u>Tools Needed:</u>
Socket Wrench
12mm Socket
14mm Socket
17mm Socket
14mm Box Wrench
BFH / Rubber Mallet
Breaker Bar
Torque Wrench
Floor Jack
Jackstands
Lugwrench
Cinderblocks / Wood / Low Ramps
PB Blaster
WD-40
Shop Rags
Step 1: Gather All Tools and Supplies
Step 2: Jack up the rear of the car and place jackstands. Remove wheels if wanted, it helps when breaking bolts and crawling around.
Step 3: Remove any existing swaybar hardware (ie, stock bar and brackets).
Later, weak **** ...
Step 4: Loosen the LCA bolt, but don't take it out yet.
Step 5: Remove shock bolt, and rotate the shock 180 degrees, so the welded nut is facing towards the rear of the car. Bolt on the adapter brackets.
Alternate View:
Lets take a time out to look at the ASR Brace. Damn, that's some fine metal.
Oh the thickness, this is what saves your subframe right here
Step 6: Get your new LCA bolt, washer, and brace.
Step 7: Bolt up the brace, but only hand tighten. Do not torque it yet.
Step 8: If you don't have an Si, use the supplied backing plates. Thread the long bolt to the top, and the medium bolt to the middle hole. Don't torque the top one.
Step 9: Torque the middle bolt to 20-25 lbs/ft. Remove the top bolt.
Step 10: Now is a good time to remove your axleback for clearance when working with the swaybar and bushings.
Step 11: Lube up your swaybar bushings and put them on your swaybar. Place the brackets over the bushings.
Step 12: Mount up the swaybar. Put one washer from the ST kit under each ear of the bushing bracket. Thread the bolts, but do not tighten at all.
Step 13: Jack up your suspension from the brake knuckle.
Step 14: Put your endlink together and thread the nylock nut onto the top. Do not tighten.
Step 15: Put your wheels back on, and use cinderblocks, wood, or low ramps to compress the suspension to ride height.
You should be looking about like this:
Step 16: Tighten down your endlinks. Put a wrench on the nylock nut to prevent it from moving. Torque the bolt to 40 lb/ft.
This is also a great time to have you (or your girlfriend in my case) polish up your muffler, tip to tail
Step 17: Ok, time to torque everything to spec. Shake your swaybar back and forth as much as you can to remove any binding. Torque the bushing bracket bolts to 20-25 lb/ft. Remove the blocks from under your wheels so your suspension droops. Tighten your LCA bolts on the subframe to 40 lbs/ft.
Step 18: Put your muffler back on, clean up, and lower your car back down. Enjoy your oversteer!
Any questions or comments welcome
Modified by Eran at 1:27 PM 3/2/2007
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From: Los Angeles
Re: How To: ST Swaybar with ASR Brace - EK <56K INTENSE> (broketuner-Sol_Si)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by broketuner-Sol_Si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">excellent writeup </TD></TR></TABLE>
</TD></TR></TABLE>
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HT White Ops
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From: I see what you did there.
Re: (SoCalEM1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SoCalEM1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice write up. will help me a bunch here in a few weeks. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Glad to help, that's what I'm here for
Glad to help, that's what I'm here for
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Thread Starter
HT White Ops
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From: I see what you did there.
Re: (kidsafe yee)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kidsafe yee »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">clean up those lca's! hahaha. nice job though. want to install mine for me? lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
Lol, yeah, I gotta get under there with a stack of shop rags and a can of brake clean.
And heeeelllll naw on installing yours
Pay me
Lol, yeah, I gotta get under there with a stack of shop rags and a can of brake clean.
And heeeelllll naw on installing yours
Pay me
Thread Starter
HT White Ops
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From: I see what you did there.
Re: (shrums-1la)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shrums-1la »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what lca's are those.?
nice write up. im looking to get the asr subframe for my eg soon </TD></TR></TABLE>
Gen 1 Omnipower. They're being replaced soon by either some SRR's or Function7's. The get donated to the girlfriend's coupe
nice write up. im looking to get the asr subframe for my eg soon </TD></TR></TABLE>
Gen 1 Omnipower. They're being replaced soon by either some SRR's or Function7's. The get donated to the girlfriend's coupe
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From: 805, CA, US
Re: (shrums-1la)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shrums-1la »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what lca's are those.?
nice write up. im looking to get the asr subframe for my eg soon </TD></TR></TABLE>
looks like the 1st or 2nd gen omnis
nice write up. im looking to get the asr subframe for my eg soon </TD></TR></TABLE>
looks like the 1st or 2nd gen omnis
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: USA
Re: (Eran)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eran »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Lol, yeah, I gotta get under there with a stack of shop rags and a can of brake clean.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You mean *I* have to get under there with a stack of shop rags and a can of brake clean.
My project is going to take the next few days.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eran »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Gen 1 Omnipower. They're being replaced soon by either some SRR's or Function7's. The get donated to the girlfriend's coupe</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wewt.
You mean *I* have to get under there with a stack of shop rags and a can of brake clean.
My project is going to take the next few days.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eran »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Gen 1 Omnipower. They're being replaced soon by either some SRR's or Function7's. The get donated to the girlfriend's coupe
</TD></TR></TABLE>Wewt.
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Re: How To: ST Swaybar with ASR Brace - EK <56K INTENSE> (BlueIntegraBoy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueIntegraBoy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Awesome write-up Eran. Get the front mounted yet?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, I'm missing the spacer blocks that go under the bushings
I'm waiting for a rush delivery from ST.
No, I'm missing the spacer blocks that go under the bushings
I'm waiting for a rush delivery from ST.
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From: Place of sand and sun all year
Re: (Malakai)
nice write up! my experience was a bit different tho......
when installing the ASR and ST rear bar on my Ek hatch, I couldn't get the endlinks to attach to the bar and the lower shock mount. the sway bar just didn't go far enough past the LCA to mount the endlinks properly. so instead I had to grab an ITR rear bar & some Function7 endlinks (which are awesome btw).
front bar mounted up no problem but bushings just started squeaking. nice muffler!
when installing the ASR and ST rear bar on my Ek hatch, I couldn't get the endlinks to attach to the bar and the lower shock mount. the sway bar just didn't go far enough past the LCA to mount the endlinks properly. so instead I had to grab an ITR rear bar & some Function7 endlinks (which are awesome btw).
front bar mounted up no problem but bushings just started squeaking. nice muffler!
Re:
Nice Write Up! This is in my plans for Future mods........What size sway bar is that? 3/4? I plan on getting the Combo Front and Rear set soon! Also what size front sway should I get? 1" or 3/4? Thanks! Didnt mean to thread jack if I did!
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Re: Re: (madcrossover)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by madcrossover »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice Write Up! This is in my plans for Future mods........What size sway bar is that? 3/4? I plan on getting the Combo Front and Rear set soon! Also what size front sway should I get? 1" or 3/4? Thanks! Didnt mean to thread jack if I did! </TD></TR></TABLE>
I got the combo set. It's a 3/4" (19mm) rear bar and a 15/16" (24mm) front bar. I haven't installed the front because I'm waiting on parts.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I got the combo set. It's a 3/4" (19mm) rear bar and a 15/16" (24mm) front bar. I haven't installed the front because I'm waiting on parts.