possible transmission problem?
Ok, heres the deal, i have:
2000 accord
4 cyldr 2.3L vtec w/
head package from Gude Performance
aem v2 intake
dc sport header
UR underdrive pulleys
Those are the mods, its nice, and clean- looks pretty much stock. The problem i am having is with my transmission i think. I will be pressing the accelerator down slowly (in any gear) and the car acts as if nothing is happening until the accelerator is pretty much to the floor. In the meantime, though, while it is trying to accelerate the tach will "inch" up ever slightly (ex: 2300 to 2350, then pause, 2400 to 2450 then pause, ect.) The car acts as if there is a fat *** holding the car from behind, no torque- i guess. Passing for me now, it out of the question because i have no idea how it will respond from one time to the next.
Oh, the other day , it got down to 28 degrees (fereinheit) in the morning- and the car was fine! Ran like a champ that i remember. SO, i guess in extreme cold conditions it runs good- any ideas?
Things i have done to try to solve problem:
-replaced vtec solonoid gasket.
-replaced thermo
-replaced tb gasket and cleaned with carb cleaner
-replaced spark plugs, wires, rotor and cap
-adjusted valves
-checked timing
-replaced primary and secondary o2
-did a "top engine clean" w/ honda (cleans out intake and through exhaust)
I know this is wierd- all i know is my car would run with my wifes 6 speed 6cydlr accord (to 70mph, anyway.lol), and now i cant run with a 2.5S Nissan Altima. Just trying to give you guys an idea
Any help would be greatly appreciated! THanks all!!
Modified by Winjury at 7:27 PM 2/26/2007
2000 accord
4 cyldr 2.3L vtec w/
head package from Gude Performance
aem v2 intake
dc sport header
UR underdrive pulleys
Those are the mods, its nice, and clean- looks pretty much stock. The problem i am having is with my transmission i think. I will be pressing the accelerator down slowly (in any gear) and the car acts as if nothing is happening until the accelerator is pretty much to the floor. In the meantime, though, while it is trying to accelerate the tach will "inch" up ever slightly (ex: 2300 to 2350, then pause, 2400 to 2450 then pause, ect.) The car acts as if there is a fat *** holding the car from behind, no torque- i guess. Passing for me now, it out of the question because i have no idea how it will respond from one time to the next.
Oh, the other day , it got down to 28 degrees (fereinheit) in the morning- and the car was fine! Ran like a champ that i remember. SO, i guess in extreme cold conditions it runs good- any ideas?
Things i have done to try to solve problem:
-replaced vtec solonoid gasket.
-replaced thermo
-replaced tb gasket and cleaned with carb cleaner
-replaced spark plugs, wires, rotor and cap
-adjusted valves
-checked timing
-replaced primary and secondary o2
-did a "top engine clean" w/ honda (cleans out intake and through exhaust)
I know this is wierd- all i know is my car would run with my wifes 6 speed 6cydlr accord (to 70mph, anyway.lol), and now i cant run with a 2.5S Nissan Altima. Just trying to give you guys an idea
Any help would be greatly appreciated! THanks all!!Modified by Winjury at 7:27 PM 2/26/2007
it is an auto. lol. Ok, heres the best part i left out:
I was having the problem at 97,500 miles on the od. i then had it replaced at 98,600. (my car was under that recall). And, after only 4 thousand miles, i still have the same problem. any thoughts?
I was having the problem at 97,500 miles on the od. i then had it replaced at 98,600. (my car was under that recall). And, after only 4 thousand miles, i still have the same problem. any thoughts?
thanks ill get it checked out. The remanufactured tranny is warranty'd for 36,000 miles...so they say. ill let you guys know how it turns ouit.
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same gude head package, had for 5 yrs now...on my third motor..first blew ringlands, lost compression, but cause over advanced (3 degrees) ran 94 premium ALL THE TIME, but rings went out during dyno session....second motor, was tuned great, but i had to expletive with emanage by hand with no computer and with no Air/fuel readings....leaned out, ran GRRREAT for 4 miles,blew rings again, that was with 2.5 deg advance....third motor is strong as hell, getting ready to tune...its a bit rich and stock cam timing, but runs better then advanced even.....so make sure ur motor is advanced no more then 1.5 degrees, premium fuell all the time, dont use ultra thin 5w20 synthetic or u'll start leaking thru valves(i had mine redone, seated valves better, optimized for low lift flow, decked , compresion tested the head, using 10 w40 in summer, plus lucas....no oil leaks, and car feels sooo much torquier then other two motors....Auto trannies blow, if u did not run coller u prolly blew a seal somewhere....swap 5 speed or like me get a cheap one from http://www.car-part.com
as far as i can read from your set up ur not running any fuel management?!!!!!! that would totally **** on your set up.....plus even if u set a piggy back fmu like i did with emanage u still have to run a switch from ecu wire, so u can reset the ecu periodically, otherwise the car detunes itself for emmisions......i ran a switch from ecu to my dash, so that everytime i start a car up it resets the tune to the settings it was tuned for right of the dyno tune.....after driving for an hour the power drops considerabl, as stock ecu starts to retard your ignition timing to improve for gas milage
as far as i can read from your set up ur not running any fuel management?!!!!!! that would totally **** on your set up.....plus even if u set a piggy back fmu like i did with emanage u still have to run a switch from ecu wire, so u can reset the ecu periodically, otherwise the car detunes itself for emmisions......i ran a switch from ecu to my dash, so that everytime i start a car up it resets the tune to the settings it was tuned for right of the dyno tune.....after driving for an hour the power drops considerabl, as stock ecu starts to retard your ignition timing to improve for gas milage
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