So i got my 06 si dynoed on a dynojet dyno. I had 4 pulls and the highest was 155 whp and 148tq. The mods I have are a Greddy EVO2, Fujita SRI, and a Hondata IMG. There was another stock SI there putting out 185whp and 131wtq. Can somebody please help me figure out WTF is wrong with my car. I am going crazy and am ready to sell the POS. The first pull was too short a gear which is why the numbers are so low. They actually gave me a 4th pull but the 3rd pull was the highest. I think this was done in 4th gear except the first one which was a 3rd gear pull.

http://s96.photobucket.com/alb...2.jpg

 

What did the actual SHOP SAY that was standing with you when you brought your car in say?

As opposed to us from the internet that don't have access to your car.?

 

They told me to bring it in and they will take a look at it. I don't really have any money right now to pay for them to look at it just to tell me the engine is shot or I got screwed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 06Carbonsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So i got my 06 si dynoed on a dynojet dyno. I had 4 pulls and the highest was 155 whp and 148tq. The mods I have are a Greddy EVO2, Fujita SRI, and a Hondata IMG. There was another stock SI there putting out 185whp and 131wtq. Can somebody please help me figure out WTF is wrong with my car. I am going crazy and am ready to sell the POS. The first pull was too short a gear which is why the numbers are so low. They actually gave me a 4th pull but the 3rd pull was the highest. I think this was done in 4th gear except the first one which was a 3rd gear pull.
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Wow. Just Wow. Something's definitely not right. Either with their software or your car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 06Carbonsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They told me to bring it in and they will take a look at it. I don't really have any money right now to pay for them to look at it just to tell me the engine is shot or I got screwed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

damn at least you got better torque #s than the other si

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 06Carbonsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They told me to bring it in and they will take a look at it. I don't really have any money right now to pay for them to look at it just to tell me the engine is shot or I got screwed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bring it to your dealership

on a side rant

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1897849

how come people modify their cars but when it comes time for an issue or maint. its some big fiasco... but putting 1500 in " carbon parts " was no problemo?

 

I saw a Si with a bad Hondata IMG install and the car overheated once, after major power loss. Did your car ever overheat or loose too much coolant from the install ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 24boosted &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I saw a Si with a bad Hondata IMG install and the car overheated once, after major power loss. Did your car ever overheat or loose too much coolant from the install ? </TD></TR></TABLE>


or even worse a faux hondata gasket that seized back in the day on ephatch.com

it was pretty much "charcoal/melted" when removed

 

I didn't have much of a choice with the carbon fiber cause I messed up my trunk bad and Honda wanted $2400 to fix it. I figured I would just go for looks and spend less money while I'm at it.

 

I never had my car overheat or loose coolant at all (before or after IMG install)

 

do you know when shops dynojet was last calibrated

 

well dee dee dee, have u noticed if the car feels slower than stock on the street?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoonlongblock &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you know when shops dynojet was last calibrated</TD></TR></TABLE>

what would the calibration matter?
there was an identical car there when he was putting out correct numbers.

 

something is wrong here. how come there's that torque jump on the graph. Honda torque curves are always very smooth and flat, (not unless its turbo). I did my pulls on 3rd gear and produced 183hp, 133ft tq. Maybe the car wasn't strapped down properly? If your torque numbers didn't jump then you would of been at about 123 ft tq peak. mmm...kinda wierd, i would go to the track to verify if these numbers are correct. If your trap speeds are around 93-97mph. I think your engine is just fine

 

You didn't make 148 lb-ft of torque--that 148 lb-ft looks like tire slippage on the dyno or some sort of rpm pickup problem. If you made 148 at 6700 rpm, you would have well over 190 whp at the top. Your peak torque looks to be around 124 which would jibe witht the 155 hp number.

If the car is brand new it might have to loosen up a bit. Some cars of the same model don't run as hard as others. That is a fact. Find another Si and do some 3rd or 4th gear rolls against him to take traction out of the equation.

Some dynos--even of the same brand and type--show lower numbers than others, perhaps that was part of it.

What kind of fuel did you have in the tank when you did the runs? Was the car fully warmed up? What kind of oil was in the sump?

 

The dyno used the wrong correction factor. They used STD instead of the widely used SAE. Call them up and have them change the correction and print out a new graph. It may not be much but might show better numbers.

In any case, dyno numbers are just for reference. If you up and sell the car just because of a printed piece of paper then you don't need the car anyway, sell it to someone who will enjoy it for the way it drives. If you want to see how your mods helped your car, take it to the track and see first hand how strong it is.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxmatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The dyno used the wrong correction factor. They used STD instead of the widely used SAE. Call them up and have them change the correction and print out a new graph. It may not be much but might show better numbers.

In any case, dyno numbers are just for reference. If you up and sell the car just because of a printed piece of paper then you don't need the car anyway, sell it to someone who will enjoy it for the way it drives. If you want to see how your mods helped your car, take it to the track and see first hand how strong it is. </TD></TR></TABLE>


in that case you can sell me your si, i got 5 grand waiting for you

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxmatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The dyno used the wrong correction factor. They used STD instead of the widely used SAE. Call them up and have them change the correction and print out a new graph. It may not be much but might show better numbers.

In any case, dyno numbers are just for reference. If you up and sell the car just because of a printed piece of paper then you don't need the car anyway, sell it to someone who will enjoy it for the way it drives. If you want to see how your mods helped your car, take it to the track and see first hand how strong it is. </TD></TR></TABLE> Even though he posted an "uncorrected" graph--from the temp, humidity and barometric pressure it looks like the correction factor may be anywhere from 0.98 to 1.02--meaning the actual SAE numbers could be from a few hp more to a few hp less. Much of the time actually, the uncorrected numbers will be HIGHER than SAE numbers--I dynoed 180 uncorrected and 166 SAE on a dynojet--because I dynoed that day in "ideal" conditions--50 degrees, high barometric pressure, very low humidity. The conditions on the graph shown are actually pretty favorable as far as humidity and bar. pressure is concerned--the temp is a bit high. If anything on the SAE graph you are probably making 156-159.

You will only make MORE power using corrected SAE graph when you dyno in very hot, humid conditions with low barometric pressure. Like right before a thunderstorm in July.

Also, they might haven only given you the uncorrected numbers because they were the higher numbers--and like I said looking at the low humidity and relatively high bar. pressure which is offset a bit by the high temperature--if you had a 0.98 or 0.99 correction factor--you will show 153 and 152 respectively.

That is why a Dynojet is a solid measuring device--there are a minimum of inputs compared to other "load" dynos--you could always fudge the numbers on a Dynojet by blowing cold air at the temp. sensor--but compared to like a Dyno Dynamics its harder to make the dyno falsify numbers.




Modified by d16dcoe45 at 9:18 AM 2/25/2007

 

"STD" isn't a correction factor--its what the car put down that day in those exact weather conditions. Cold, dense dry air will always make more power than hot, moist air. SAE is there to equalize different weather conditions.

Usually the dyno shop can email you the runs on their software--this way you can change the graph to show SAE or STD or JIS, rpm or mph, you can seperate or layer like 10 runs over each other--a whole bunch of stuff--instead of getting a single printout at the dyno shop.

 

With all those mods, something you may try is resetting the ecu. Unhook the battery negative for 5 mins, then let it idle for 15 mins.

edit: I should mention, hook up the battery after 5 mins THEN let it idle heh.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16dcoe45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"STD" isn't a correction factor--its what the car put down that day in those exact weather conditions.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's one of the options to pick in the "correction factor" dropdown box in the Winpep software. You want to get technical, bring it up with them but that's how they list it and you knew exactly what I meant.