Want faster revs.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EK k kay »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lightened flywheel</TD></TR></TABLE>
Fidanza FTW!
Fidanza FTW!
As stated, a lighter flywheel. However, along with the quicker revs, goes away the coasting. Once you take your foot off the pedal the car will lose speed quickly from the lost inertia that kept propelling it forward earlier.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Demonis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">doesn't sound like a bad thing... would that have an adverse effect on gas mileage?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm not positive on this, but logically thinking, it should increase as your using something with less weight, so it takes less power to get it going *shrugs*
i'm not positive on this, but logically thinking, it should increase as your using something with less weight, so it takes less power to get it going *shrugs*
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You get quicker revs with the light flywheel, and your top end HP will actually increase by quite a bit, but you will lose a bit if driveability and lose some low end tourqe, sometimes nearly as much as you gain in HP on some cars.
I would recomend against it, since along with the crank pulley, the flywheel is used as a vibration dampening device for the crank, so this can have adverse affects on your engines reliability.
I would recomend against it, since along with the crank pulley, the flywheel is used as a vibration dampening device for the crank, so this can have adverse affects on your engines reliability.
First, a lighter flywheel allows the engine to change rpms more quickly. This in turn allows for faster shifting, by shortening the time a driver waits as the engine speed matches the speed of the selected gear so they can mesh without clashing. It also means faster acceleration, both positive and negative. Also, a lighter flywheel is less likely to shear off the crank during hard acceleration or deceleration.
Drawbacks include an increased risk of over-revving when you miss a gear. Also, you'll have to rev the engine a bit more to get the car rolling from a dead stop, because you'll have less rotational inertia to trade off.
Drawbacks include an increased risk of over-revving when you miss a gear. Also, you'll have to rev the engine a bit more to get the car rolling from a dead stop, because you'll have less rotational inertia to trade off.
although lightening the engines rotational mass doesnt necessarily yeild horsepower (many arguements for and against) It does make a car quicker. risking aftermarket pullies is sketchy because they may not be perfectly balanced and in time f up a motor
I also want to secure my engine against over revs. I would like to be able to confidently rev to 9k or higher and know the engine will hold fine. What parts are involved in that? I saw the Spoon Type-R going up to like 11k... i dont need those extremes, I don't plan on driving it to that point, but if i had a 9k limiter, and build the engine for safety to 10k or so, then maybe i wouldnt have to worry about a mis shift.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Demonis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hm and to add compression i need? </TD></TR></TABLE>
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums...rated
Look @ the 2nd post in the thread. Might give you some ideas. Good luck w/the modifications
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums...rated
Look @ the 2nd post in the thread. Might give you some ideas. Good luck w/the modifications
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Beefkake »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> First, a lighter flywheel allows the engine to change rpms more quickly. This in turn allows for faster shifting, by shortening the time a driver waits as the engine speed matches the speed of the selected gear so they can mesh without clashing. It also means faster acceleration, both positive and negative. Also, a lighter flywheel is less likely to shear off the crank during hard acceleration or deceleration.
Drawbacks include an increased risk of over-revving when you miss a gear. Also, you'll have to rev the engine a bit more to get the car rolling from a dead stop, because you'll have less rotational inertia to trade off. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If you're going to copy and paste other people's information, at least link to the damn website so we can read the full article. Also, if you didn't notice, this is a scooter website. Did you think to check that when you changed 'rider' to 'driver' in the above text? Do you even know if this applies to cars at all?
http://www.whizwheels.com/Tips....html
Thanks!
Drawbacks include an increased risk of over-revving when you miss a gear. Also, you'll have to rev the engine a bit more to get the car rolling from a dead stop, because you'll have less rotational inertia to trade off. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If you're going to copy and paste other people's information, at least link to the damn website so we can read the full article. Also, if you didn't notice, this is a scooter website. Did you think to check that when you changed 'rider' to 'driver' in the above text? Do you even know if this applies to cars at all?
http://www.whizwheels.com/Tips....html
Thanks!
For your information, the engine is disengaged from the tranny when the clutch is in, so the flywheel weight has no effect on gear synchro engagement.
The motor will rev faster, but will also require faster shifting as the rpms will drop faster in between gears. As mentioned, more rpms will be needed to launch the car also.
You also don't need more compression to shift at 9000rpm, or have the rev limiter there. I shift at 8800 in my itr cammed gutless wonder.
IPS k2 cams make peak power around 8500 rpm, so 9000 would only make sense with a good tune/reflash.
The best way to secure the engine against over revs is good driving.
You would require costly upgrades to valvetrain and reciprocating assembly
to be sure missing a gear would not kill the motor. Very aggressive springs would be necessary to try to avoid valve float at 11,000rpm. They would have to be changed at short mileage intervals.
The only worry I have with my motor is the oil pump after 8500, as it has been noticed the pump foams the oil after that. The hytech modded pump would give you peace of mind to rev to 9000 if you wanted.
If you drag like me, it isn't as much of a worry as the time spent above 8500
is very minimal.
The motor will rev faster, but will also require faster shifting as the rpms will drop faster in between gears. As mentioned, more rpms will be needed to launch the car also.
You also don't need more compression to shift at 9000rpm, or have the rev limiter there. I shift at 8800 in my itr cammed gutless wonder.
IPS k2 cams make peak power around 8500 rpm, so 9000 would only make sense with a good tune/reflash.
The best way to secure the engine against over revs is good driving.
You would require costly upgrades to valvetrain and reciprocating assembly
to be sure missing a gear would not kill the motor. Very aggressive springs would be necessary to try to avoid valve float at 11,000rpm. They would have to be changed at short mileage intervals.
The only worry I have with my motor is the oil pump after 8500, as it has been noticed the pump foams the oil after that. The hytech modded pump would give you peace of mind to rev to 9000 if you wanted.
If you drag like me, it isn't as much of a worry as the time spent above 8500
is very minimal.
My main concern is over revving once i get it how i want it on the speed of revs. I'd like to rev quick, but the fear of buying a 5k engine for my new car isnt a thought id like to live out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 9bells »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For your information, the engine is disengaged from the tranny when the clutch is in, so the flywheel weight has no effect on gear synchro engagement.
The motor will rev faster, but will also require faster shifting as the rpms will drop faster in between gears. As mentioned, more rpms will be needed to launch the car also.
You also don't need more compression to shift at 9000rpm, or have the rev limiter there. I shift at 8800 in my itr cammed gutless wonder.
IPS k2 cams make peak power around 8500 rpm, so 9000 would only make sense with a good tune/reflash.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok first when the car is moving and the clutch is in, the pressure plate is still moving with the engine. this is why professionals recomend not to "coast" down a hill with the clutch in. this will prematuerly wear the clutch. and 2nd unless the reflash (which there is none) he gets completely eliminates the rev hang associated with our cars, the rpms will not drop faster with a lightened flywheel, at least not enough to where you cant rev match in between gears
am i right?
The motor will rev faster, but will also require faster shifting as the rpms will drop faster in between gears. As mentioned, more rpms will be needed to launch the car also.
You also don't need more compression to shift at 9000rpm, or have the rev limiter there. I shift at 8800 in my itr cammed gutless wonder.
IPS k2 cams make peak power around 8500 rpm, so 9000 would only make sense with a good tune/reflash.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok first when the car is moving and the clutch is in, the pressure plate is still moving with the engine. this is why professionals recomend not to "coast" down a hill with the clutch in. this will prematuerly wear the clutch. and 2nd unless the reflash (which there is none) he gets completely eliminates the rev hang associated with our cars, the rpms will not drop faster with a lightened flywheel, at least not enough to where you cant rev match in between gears
am i right?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Demonis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My main concern is over revving once i get it how i want it on the speed of revs. I'd like to rev quick, but the fear of buying a 5k engine for my new car isnt a thought id like to live out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you are worried about buying a new motor or stuff breaking. dont bother modding your car.....because all in all that's what your risking. buying modifications to go that much faster...which can have their flaws...so if your not ready for stuff to break...dont bother modding. remember...if your not breaking parts...your not going fast enough :X
if you are worried about buying a new motor or stuff breaking. dont bother modding your car.....because all in all that's what your risking. buying modifications to go that much faster...which can have their flaws...so if your not ready for stuff to break...dont bother modding. remember...if your not breaking parts...your not going fast enough :X
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by originalg00kster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
remember...if your not breaking parts...your not going fast enough :X</TD></TR></TABLE>
I thought it was, "If you're not breaking parts, you're not driving a Ford."
remember...if your not breaking parts...your not going fast enough :X</TD></TR></TABLE>
I thought it was, "If you're not breaking parts, you're not driving a Ford."
I know that things still break, but there are precautionary actions as well as things you can do just to go faster. If nascar built their engines just to haul *** and never hold up, it wouldnt be the wasted time sport that it is.



