How to stop trunk rattling
I know this is going to sound like a stupid question but I'm going to ask anyway. For the time since I put my subs in I've had a horrible rattling from my truck. I thought it was the license plate at first so put foam behind it. Helped a little but still everytime the bass hits something in the trunk goes to rattling. Well I finally looked into it today again after years of dealing with it. It seems as though it's the whole trunk lid rattling as if you press down on it hard to stop it from moving it stops rattling and if you let go it goes back to it and you can see it move ever so slightly when the bass hits. Is there a way to stop this? I have 2 12"s in there which isn't an uncommon setup so I would think there has to be someone that has stopped this or tried anyway. When you are in the car it doesn't sound bad but it sounds horrible outside the car. Good thing I don't usually like to turn up my music when people are around because if I did I'd be embarassed to ride around with it like that.
I'd always in the past thought about Dynomat being the cure to it and me just not doing it but since the actual trunk is moving would that fix it? I will have to look at it again but I think the screws are fairly tight. I may have to recheck them though.
dynomat is specifically designed to stop sound waves from hitting whatever is behind it, allowing the sound to be more focused toward where the dynomat is not, plus to stop things like the trunk lid from rattling, it will help if you put it in, but might not be the cure if your pushing alot of power.
If you lower the latch for the trunk, to make it tighter, it may not line up with the quarterpanels anymore. So I thought maybe you could install some bump stops, like the ones under each corner of the hood. Don't ask me where you would find them though.
I'd say dynamat or something comprable is your best bet to stop rattling. I know they have dynamat ripoff products on ebay for much less than the real deal, but am unsure of the quality comparison. Anyone use anything else and have good results?
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I've used generic (Cascade VB2 mini and some other brand) and I've used DynaMat. Unfortunetly there was jsut no comparison- the off brand stuff was jsut garbage. It didn't adhere well, it didn't mold to the contours well, and it just basically blew in general
DynaMat is kinda spendy, but if you buy it in bulk online, it's not too bad. Just don't go to a retail store and buy it- very very pricey wasy to go
DynaMat is kinda spendy, but if you buy it in bulk online, it's not too bad. Just don't go to a retail store and buy it- very very pricey wasy to go
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLKFLSH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you lower the latch for the trunk, to make it tighter, it may not line up with the quarterpanels anymore.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I lowered mine a little bit and everything still lines up. In addition, I got some peel-n-seal from Lowe's and put that all over the bottom side of the lid. Took care of most of the rattling. I only hear the rattling when I have the bass turned up all the way, but at that loudness, the whole car starts rattling, so fixing the trunk would make no difference.
I lowered mine a little bit and everything still lines up. In addition, I got some peel-n-seal from Lowe's and put that all over the bottom side of the lid. Took care of most of the rattling. I only hear the rattling when I have the bass turned up all the way, but at that loudness, the whole car starts rattling, so fixing the trunk would make no difference.
yes this was the first thing i thought of too was dynomat. it will reduce the strength of the sound waves from extending its range to its limit. thus bouncing majority of the waves away from the vibrating metal. of course it will have its limit though as it won't completely stop your trunk if the music is too loud.
find a way to dampen the vibrations between the latch and the trunk lid and you'll fix the rattle, when you're pushing down on the lid you're removing contact space of the latch to the lid.
*02 accord* had it right and so did *BLKFLSH*.
Install dynamat on flat surfaces where you can such as the inside of the lid, apply it to the latch's flat surfaces.
Install bump stops so that it applys pressure to the lid against the latch so that it supports a FIRM contact (this is where the noise comes from).
The oscillation of sound waves against the trunk lid causes it to push in and out at a frequency, when the resonate freq of the lid is met, it causes it to move up and down on the latch, thus creating the noise, if you dampen the lid to the rest of the car your resonate freq will change untill amplitude is increased to a point nothing can resist vibration.
Edit: another good habit, tighten everything inside your trunk and your license plate on a monthly basis, the vibration of the subs will cause screws to gradually come loose, eventually allowing a new sound to be heard.
*02 accord* had it right and so did *BLKFLSH*.
Install dynamat on flat surfaces where you can such as the inside of the lid, apply it to the latch's flat surfaces.
Install bump stops so that it applys pressure to the lid against the latch so that it supports a FIRM contact (this is where the noise comes from).
The oscillation of sound waves against the trunk lid causes it to push in and out at a frequency, when the resonate freq of the lid is met, it causes it to move up and down on the latch, thus creating the noise, if you dampen the lid to the rest of the car your resonate freq will change untill amplitude is increased to a point nothing can resist vibration.
Edit: another good habit, tighten everything inside your trunk and your license plate on a monthly basis, the vibration of the subs will cause screws to gradually come loose, eventually allowing a new sound to be heard.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Accord2k-Hybrid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Edit: another good habit, tighten everything inside your trunk and your license plate on a monthly basis, the vibration of the subs will cause screws to gradually come loose, eventually allowing a new sound to be heard.</TD></TR></TABLE>
good idea, my cars pretty gutted and i hear a lot of trunk rattling so this
sounds like a pretty good idea
Edit: another good habit, tighten everything inside your trunk and your license plate on a monthly basis, the vibration of the subs will cause screws to gradually come loose, eventually allowing a new sound to be heard.</TD></TR></TABLE>
good idea, my cars pretty gutted and i hear a lot of trunk rattling so this
sounds like a pretty good idea
Hey, I have a Kicker L7 in my trunk and I have the same problem. I found out it was the wires that run to the lights on the trunk lid that vibrate. If you tag-tie (zip tie) them tighly in multiple locations it will improve alot. I also filled gaps with Poli-fil to help dampen the sound. ALSO! There is a ventilation opening with a rubber flap on it to help keep out moister (i assume) and it rattles like a motha. If you rip off the rubber flap or tape it open somehow it will not rattle. Also, the emergency trunk release will rattle and it helps to dampen that area. But the two largly main problems are the wires (even though they look connected to the trunk lid) are vibrating and the rubber flap is vibrating. PS> the flap is on the otherside of the carpeting on the side (mine's on the left side)which you will need to remove to get access to. I think this will help, get back to me on how you fixed it or if this helped you.
i solved ALL of my trunk rattle with dynomat+"tuff stuff" the **** out of every hole i could find+rag inserts into my rear bumper. for the lisence plate, i used a self adhesive weather stripping cutout
tuff stuff FTW
tuff stuff FTW
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CF INTEGRA GSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">definitely dynamat!</TD></TR></TABLE>
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