should i switch to short ram?
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From: KY, US
Re: should i switch to short ram? (chanluder)
Don't do it, I can think of a couple reasons off the top of my head:
1. Short Rams will yield worse performance over the stock intake system.
2. CAI will not suck in water unless COMPLETELY submerged in a puddle.
If you're that worried though, you could switch it to short ram for rainy weeks (hassle) and then put it back to cold air (some more hassle) for the rest of the time, since you have that removable bypass valve. IMO, just leave it as is.
[Modified by typeSwarrior, 12:47 AM 5/20/2002]
1. Short Rams will yield worse performance over the stock intake system.
2. CAI will not suck in water unless COMPLETELY submerged in a puddle.
If you're that worried though, you could switch it to short ram for rainy weeks (hassle) and then put it back to cold air (some more hassle) for the rest of the time, since you have that removable bypass valve. IMO, just leave it as is.
[Modified by typeSwarrior, 12:47 AM 5/20/2002]
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From: Snohomish county, WA, USA
Re: should i switch to short ram? (chanluder)
Switching to a short ram wouldnt be a bad idea if you build a functional heatshield of some sort to keep the engine bay heat away from the filter. I would some day like to do this and get rid of my CAI since I live in rainy Seattle.
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From: Fairfax Station, VA
Re: should i switch to short ram? (96SR-V)
Build a heat shield for the filter, and a short ram would work fine. Tuan has an article about intakes on http://www.hondavision.com that has to be the definitive intake article. Anyway, short rams work just fine heat shielded, they just got a bad rap, and for some reason the misinformation stuck.
[Edit: I don't think you have to worry about hydrolock from an intake. Just don't go through water higher than your bumper (and don't accelerate through standing water)]
[Modified by Steppin Razor, 7:30 AM 5/20/2002]
[Modified by Steppin Razor, 7:30 AM 5/20/2002]
[Edit: I don't think you have to worry about hydrolock from an intake. Just don't go through water higher than your bumper (and don't accelerate through standing water)]
[Modified by Steppin Razor, 7:30 AM 5/20/2002]
[Modified by Steppin Razor, 7:30 AM 5/20/2002]
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Re: should i switch to short ram? (typeSwarrior)
Don't do it, I can think of a couple reasons off the top of my head:
1. Short Rams will yield worse performance over the stock intake system.
2. CAI will not suck in water unless COMPLETELY submerged in a puddle.
If you're that worried though, you could switch it to short ram for rainy weeks (hassle) and then put it back to cold air (some more hassle) for the rest of the time, since you have that removable bypass valve. IMO, just leave it as is.
[Modified by typeSwarrior, 12:47 AM 5/20/2002]
1. Short Rams will yield worse performance over the stock intake system.
2. CAI will not suck in water unless COMPLETELY submerged in a puddle.
If you're that worried though, you could switch it to short ram for rainy weeks (hassle) and then put it back to cold air (some more hassle) for the rest of the time, since you have that removable bypass valve. IMO, just leave it as is.
[Modified by typeSwarrior, 12:47 AM 5/20/2002]
you guys seem to give out a lot of false info on this board and its starting to worry me. the only advantage that a cold air intake has over the short ram is between 4000-5000 rpms where you see the infamous AEM "Hump" in the power band. The longer intake tube causes it to reach peak volumetric efficiencey earlier than the short ram. This is the only proven advantage over the short ram. On the other side, the short ram intake will produce the same power as the cold air, and will continue making power after the cai stops. Of course we arent going to be revving that high in our engines, but if you owned a b series motor, a short ram is optimal. the cai stops making its power at 9k where as a short ram will go 10k+. A short ram yields worse performance over stock? are you nuts? thats why you see some of the top drivers using short rams....
so much bs being posted!
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From: Milwaukee, WI
Re: should i switch to short ram? (wutangben)
Of course we arent going to be revving that high in our engines, but if you owned a b series motor, a short ram is optimal. the cai stops making its power at 9k where as a short ram will go 10k+.
Also, not to mention that for racing applications of 9k+ rpms, you'll need headwork, custom fuel/ignition maps, ignition, valvetrain, cams, etc...which all equates to more HP. But stick a short ram on a mildly modded motor and spin it to 9k rpms and I don't think there's that much of a difference between that and a CAI. So instead of just seeing the HP from a motor that can spin 9k rpms with a short ram, you have to remember that it's not JUST the short ram that makes the HP up top, but a combination of every other mod necessary to keep that motor spinning that high. It's like saying..."I have a Spoon radiator cap...and I make 300whp with my Drag 3 kit. If it wasn't for the Spoon radiator cap, I don't think I'll hit 300whp."
Did I make any sense up there?
I admit that there is alot of BS floating around, but you just have to kick back, weed thru the BS, and have a 
and chill out. Not everyone is as knowledgeable as you are bro. If everyone knew everything, we wouldn't have a Honda-TECH.com. 
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Re: should i switch to short ram? (Prelude_RCR)
Of course we arent going to be revving that high in our engines, but if you owned a b series motor, a short ram is optimal. the cai stops making its power at 9k where as a short ram will go 10k+.
Well, 99% of us aren't concerned with 9k+ revs. That 4-5k rpm "AEM hump" provides the midrange torque for daily driving needs. Again, most racing applications can't be fully utilized for a street car, who rarely sees redline often (if you do, good luck on keeping your **** together for long)
Also, not to mention that for racing applications of 9k+ rpms, you'll need headwork, custom fuel/ignition maps, ignition, valvetrain, cams, etc...which all equates to more HP. But stick a short ram on a mildly modded motor and spin it to 9k rpms and I don't think there's that much of a difference between that and a CAI. So instead of just seeing the HP from a motor that can spin 9k rpms with a short ram, you have to remember that it's not JUST the short ram that makes the HP up top, but a combination of every other mod necessary to keep that motor spinning that high. It's like saying..."I have a Spoon radiator cap...and I make 300whp with my Drag 3 kit. If it wasn't for the Spoon radiator cap, I don't think I'll hit 300whp."
Did I make any sense up there? I admit that there is alot of BS floating around, but you just have to kick back, weed thru the BS, and have a and chill out. Not everyone is as knowledgeable as you are bro. If everyone knew everything, we wouldn't have a Honda-TECH.com.
Well, 99% of us aren't concerned with 9k+ revs. That 4-5k rpm "AEM hump" provides the midrange torque for daily driving needs. Again, most racing applications can't be fully utilized for a street car, who rarely sees redline often (if you do, good luck on keeping your **** together for long)
Also, not to mention that for racing applications of 9k+ rpms, you'll need headwork, custom fuel/ignition maps, ignition, valvetrain, cams, etc...which all equates to more HP. But stick a short ram on a mildly modded motor and spin it to 9k rpms and I don't think there's that much of a difference between that and a CAI. So instead of just seeing the HP from a motor that can spin 9k rpms with a short ram, you have to remember that it's not JUST the short ram that makes the HP up top, but a combination of every other mod necessary to keep that motor spinning that high. It's like saying..."I have a Spoon radiator cap...and I make 300whp with my Drag 3 kit. If it wasn't for the Spoon radiator cap, I don't think I'll hit 300whp."
Did I make any sense up there?
I admit that there is alot of BS floating around, but you just have to kick back, weed thru the BS, and have a and chill out. Not everyone is as knowledgeable as you are bro. If everyone knew everything, we wouldn't have a Honda-TECH.com.
here a dyno to show the hump for anyone curious:
oh, and i take my car up to redline 20 times a day. have been for the past 2 years, and it's staying together
peace
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From: Milwaukee, WI
Re: should i switch to short ram? (wutangben)
The person i responded to made short rams look worthless, and even said they would hurt your performance. I dont know why youre mentioning head work and all that crap. I simply said that a short ram will make power for longer than the cai will
oh, and i take my car up to redline 20 times a day. have been for the past 2 years, and it's staying together
peace
oh, and i take my car up to redline 20 times a day. have been for the past 2 years, and it's staying together
peace
With that being said, an intake is an intake. So let's end it at that.
BTW, what mods do you have? Redline 20 times a day? Damn! Where do you live?...on the Autobahn?
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From: Tacoma, WA, USA
Re: should i switch to short ram? (Prelude_RCR)
I have done a good bit of testing on this issue and my personal research has led me to the conclusion that UNLESS you build some kind of heat shield to block off the shorty intake from the underhood heat, you will suffer a loss in performance over STOCK and a dramatic loss as compared to a CAI. If you are unwilling to fabricate some kind of heat shield, you WILL lose power switching to an underhood intake.
Paul
Paul
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Re: should i switch to short ram? (chanluder)
I went short ram sorta. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=96319
All that is going away now though. Turbo is about 25% installed.
All that is going away now though. Turbo is about 25% installed.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Bay Area, CA
Re: should i switch to short ram? (GudeH23a)
ok i let my little bro step on the gas while i observe the bypass vlave and i poke it and i cud feel the air passing through. fawkk man its like i have 2 air coming in the filter and the bypass filter lols im getting a ram instead screw cai with bypass valve
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