i have a b20 swapped hatch and since a week ago it's either been idling at around 100 rpm or it just shuts off.
what can be causing this???

thanks in advance

 

it is probably messed up. i would try popping the hood first. the hood realse is located on the underdash to the left. may you could call someone to come hold your hand.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvtecek9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it is probably messed up. i would try popping the hood first. the hood realse is located on the underdash to the left. may you could call someone to come hold your hand.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wow, you see this is why i get all edgy, because of *** wipe noobs like this one.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lowRIDAH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a b20 swapped hatch and since a week ago it's either been idling at around 100 rpm or it just shuts off.
what can be causing this???

thanks in advance</TD></TR></TABLE>

being that you just swapped the b20 into your car, sometimes from sitting around the pcv valve gets clogged. spend the $3 and replace it. a bad pcv valve will also cause this problem.

 

no need to be a douche there.

and 100 rpm is impossible btw.. it'll likely die at anything below 450. don't look at your gauge for that since it's off anyway.

I noticed you live in Toronto where it's cold. Does stalling happen when just starting it, or after it's been running? If it's on startup, I'd suspect the idle air control valve is stuck closed. Your engine is probably flooding itself because of the cold temps, but it's not getting enough air.

 

yeah my car has done this lately too. and it only happes when im comming to a stop like when its in nutral and im slowin down to a stop and my rpm guage just drops or my car will stall out and not sure why

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lowRIDAH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a b20 swapped hatch and since a week ago it's either been idling at around 100 rpm or it just shuts off.
what can be causing this???

thanks in advance</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh wow, this is the same prob im having with my LS motor...does this only happen when the motor is cold???because mine does the same and i have to give it a bit of gas and hold it for like a minute till it gets a bit warm i guess....and as it gets warm it starts to idle at normal RPM's...i've created a thread about it too a while ago and no one was able to help me out...all i got was to clean my FITV but that didnt help

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
being that you just swapped the b20 into your car, sometimes from sitting around the pcv valve gets clogged. spend the $3 and replace it. a bad pcv valve will also cause this problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you think this might be my prob as well???lets say its clogged, can i clean it out like if i was cleaning my FITV?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CivicEg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


you think this might be my prob as well???lets say its clogged, can i clean it out like if i was cleaning my FITV?</TD></TR></TABLE>

mmmm...i want to say no. i know oil and grime gets in there. i don't know how effective it will be if you tried that. being that they are only $3, i just went ahead and replaced mine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

mmmm...i want to say no. i know oil and grime gets in there. i don't know how effective it will be if you tried that. being that they are only $3, i just went ahead and replaced mine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

coo...i'll try that...i can get this at like autozone right???

also, my motor doesnt have the Purge Solenoid on the IM and so the vacuum line that goes there isnt hook up...neither is the one on the TB but the one on the TB is capped closed...you think lack of Purge Solenoid can cause this idle prob too?thanks in advance yo..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CivicEg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

coo...i'll try that...i can get this at like autozone right???

also, my motor doesnt have the Purge Solenoid on the IM and so the vacuum line that goes there isnt hook up...neither is the one on the TB but the one on the TB is capped closed...you think lack of Purge Solenoid can cause this idle prob too?thanks in advance yo..</TD></TR></TABLE>

don't know much about purge solenoids, but i know for sure that you can pick up the pcv valve at autozone, pep boys, advanced auto, etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

don't know much about purge solenoids, but i know for sure that you can pick up the pcv valve at autozone, pep boys, advanced auto, etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>

f'sho...now, what exactly does PCV valve stand for???i been searching on t to see where the location is and i see that its below the IM correct???

 

http://www.thehondapartsstore....ch=no

http://www.thehondapartsstore....ch=no

click on these links, it'll show you where the valve is located.

as for the meaning not sure, sorry.

 

aight yo, good lookin out...imma look into it...

 

yeah he has a great point, pcv valve, or even simply your idle is set to low, doubtful, and make sure your iacv is hooked up in back, i have seen it unhooked and wirerd wrogn and new seems to work out well

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

as for the meaning not sure, sorry.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Positive Crankcase Ventilation

 

i was reading thru my Integra Service Manual, and it says that the PCV is designed to prevent blow-by gases from excaping to the atmosphere...it didnt mention anything about idle....so im not sure if this might be the problem...

 

thanks a lot guys.
imma try changing the pcv valve

when the car is cold i'll have to crank it a few times for the car to stay even if i give it a bit of gas but when the car is warm i'll give it gas and it'll stay on

 

btw, this just started happening in the past week but i've had the swap for over a year now

 

as for your pcv valve yes it could definately cause this problem... its only 3-4 bux dude its worth changing even if it isnt the problem..


also check your wiring harness. my b20 ekhatch did the same thing and it was my tps coming loose.

does it always do this or just alot when its cold??

 

Maybe you can try cleaning out your IACV. If that doesn't work you could possibly have a vacuum leak somewhere.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by macrohard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe you can try cleaning out your IACV. If that doesn't work you could possibly have a vacuum leak somewhere.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wouldnt this cause idle problems AFTER warm up???

even then, its good to clean it out just to know its clean...

 

yeah cleaning out your iacv wouldnt hurt neither. what year hatch is this/??????

 

it could be your spark plugs, if the pvc doesn't work i would try that next. btw sorry about being an ******* i was born that way, but at least it got someone to pay attention to your tread.

 

it's a 96 hatch.
is changing the PCV valve difficult?

i don't know if this is a dumb question but is it the same part for all b-series or do i need one that's b20 specific?

 

When I first started up my swap, it had a bad IACV (idle air control valve). This caused the motor to idle extremely low and sometimes die if I didn't lower the throttle very slowly with my foot. I unbolted the IACV from the manifold, but left it connected to the coolant lines. I sprayed simple green into the two holes until the fluid was no longer dirty coming out. Once it was dry I shot some WD40 into the holes, wiped it clean, and reinstalled it. It started working again and allows the car to idle like normal. Only problem is that warm-up still has a hunting idle. I think it still may be gunked up a little causing the valve to be slow. I don't get a high idle during warm-up. I think I'm gonna try it again with some carb cleaner.

Please keep in mind that I have a ITR motor with which doesn't have a FITV (fast-idle thermo valve).

 

how is the oil level in your car?

seriously, my car idles bad if the oil is low.