Honing frm
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From: Single camshafting for now in, N.Y.
How many have done this when rebuilding your h22's and what were your outcome?
me, I personally told the machinest who assembled my short block not to hone it based on some information a machanic at
Ren-Tech(proshe race team and chassis fabricator) told me.
so far since saturday i put 200 miles on my engine without any oil consumption.
also i have been told to break my engine in on syntec(my mechanic)
i have been using exxon 5-w30. do you think at 300 miles i will be ok to put syntec in it?
JUST ASKING OPINIONS
Modified by alterdcreations at 11:59 AM 2/12/2007
Modified by alterdcreations at 1:03 PM 2/12/2007
me, I personally told the machinest who assembled my short block not to hone it based on some information a machanic at
Ren-Tech(proshe race team and chassis fabricator) told me.
so far since saturday i put 200 miles on my engine without any oil consumption.
also i have been told to break my engine in on syntec(my mechanic)
i have been using exxon 5-w30. do you think at 300 miles i will be ok to put syntec in it?
JUST ASKING OPINIONS
Modified by alterdcreations at 11:59 AM 2/12/2007
Modified by alterdcreations at 1:03 PM 2/12/2007
Do you know if they used a lapping paste as the final honing step? I've been told by various machine shops that they won't do these types of blocks due to this lapping paste. I know the Helm's makes no mention of having to do such a step.
Having said that, I've never talked to a machine shop that does work on Porsches or Mercs to see if this is true, so I'm certainly not trying to pass it off as fact.
Having said that, I've never talked to a machine shop that does work on Porsches or Mercs to see if this is true, so I'm certainly not trying to pass it off as fact.
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From: Single camshafting for now in, N.Y.
it was luck that i found this place.(ren-Tech)
the owner told me that they do not hone the porshe walls at all, they wash them with warm soapy water and put them together.
i figured that i would rather try this first and it's been working great so far
not one drop of smoke at all and it was broken in hard while street tuning so he could acess all of the maps.
as the rings seated i acually felt the power increase(out side of tuning)
the owner told me that they do not hone the porshe walls at all, they wash them with warm soapy water and put them together.
i figured that i would rather try this first and it's been working great so far
not one drop of smoke at all and it was broken in hard while street tuning so he could acess all of the maps.
as the rings seated i acually felt the power increase(out side of tuning)
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From: Single camshafting for now in, N.Y.
they said that they wash and reassemble, not replace.
he wasnt talking about replacement sleeves.
porshe have a aluminum silicate wall. comparable to the frm(if i am not mistaken) thats why mahle made h22 pistons seeing they were already manufacturing the oem porshe ones.
he wasnt talking about replacement sleeves.
porshe have a aluminum silicate wall. comparable to the frm(if i am not mistaken) thats why mahle made h22 pistons seeing they were already manufacturing the oem porshe ones.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alterdcreations »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
porshe have a aluminum silicate wall. comparable to the frm(if i am not mistaken) thats why mahle made h22 pistons seeing they were already manufacturing the oem porshe ones.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Odd, the older motors we built had no such sleeve design....
porshe have a aluminum silicate wall. comparable to the frm(if i am not mistaken) thats why mahle made h22 pistons seeing they were already manufacturing the oem porshe ones.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Odd, the older motors we built had no such sleeve design....
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From: Single camshafting for now in, N.Y.
i guess the newer ones are like that<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Odd, the older motors we built had no such sleeve design.... </TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah but i don't want to sleeve yet. plus frm is strong enough for my none boosted/ non overbored daily driver. i might juice her up in the summer to play with the turbo boys
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">iron ftw</TD></TR></TABLE>
Odd, the older motors we built had no such sleeve design.... </TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah but i don't want to sleeve yet. plus frm is strong enough for my none boosted/ non overbored daily driver. i might juice her up in the summer to play with the turbo boys
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">iron ftw</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Odd, the older motors we built had no such sleeve design.... </TD></TR></TABLE>
since the mid 70's 911's used nikasil coated sleeves
Odd, the older motors we built had no such sleeve design.... </TD></TR></TABLE>
since the mid 70's 911's used nikasil coated sleeves
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by street_accord94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
since the mid 70's 911's used nikasil coated sleeves</TD></TR></TABLE>
Makes sense since we built early to mid 70's motors. I think they may have had aftermarket Iron liners available as well.
since the mid 70's 911's used nikasil coated sleeves</TD></TR></TABLE>
Makes sense since we built early to mid 70's motors. I think they may have had aftermarket Iron liners available as well.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alterdcreations »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How many have done this when rebuilding your h22's and what were your outcome?
me, I personally told the machinest who assembled my short block not to hone it based on some information a machanic at
Ren-Tech(proshe race team and chassis fabricator) told me.
so far since saturday i put 200 miles on my engine without any oil consumption.
also i have been told to break my engine in on syntec(my mechanic)
i have been using exxon 5-w30. do you think at 300 miles i will be ok to put syntec in it?
JUST ASKING OPINIONS
Modified by alterdcreations at 11:59 AM 2/12/2007
Modified by alterdcreations at 1:03 PM 2/12/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>
You should not break in a motor on synthetic oil.
me, I personally told the machinest who assembled my short block not to hone it based on some information a machanic at
Ren-Tech(proshe race team and chassis fabricator) told me.
so far since saturday i put 200 miles on my engine without any oil consumption.
also i have been told to break my engine in on syntec(my mechanic)
i have been using exxon 5-w30. do you think at 300 miles i will be ok to put syntec in it?
JUST ASKING OPINIONS
Modified by alterdcreations at 11:59 AM 2/12/2007
Modified by alterdcreations at 1:03 PM 2/12/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>
You should not break in a motor on synthetic oil.
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From: Single camshafting for now in, N.Y.
thats what i thought also.
i put 300 tuned miles on the car with exxon oil
i just switched to torco sr5 5-30 for now
my shortblock builder told me to do it so i followed him.
not one drop of smoke yet so it should be ok
i put 300 tuned miles on the car with exxon oil
i just switched to torco sr5 5-30 for now
my shortblock builder told me to do it so i followed him.
not one drop of smoke yet so it should be ok
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