hey, i dont know what either of these wheels are, so i think you guys could help me out. please tell me where i could get them and how much theey cost about.



AND

the other one wont show up. but those for now.

 

real ones are mugen mf10, muchos dinero$, or you can get the rota replicas which are C-10, which are cheaper. check jlbmotorsports

 

Rota knockoffs...might be actual mugens. Not sure.

 

rota circuit 10 starts at around $450 for a set

 

i have a feeling those are real though. not rotas, good luck finding the mugens for a decent price

 

What is the differnce between Mugen wheels and Rota. Is it weight? Or just a name brand thing.

 

It's the name, personally I will take some Rotas for $400-$500 vs paying 2k-2500 for the same thing minues a name stamped on the wheel

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Noemotion_91DA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is the differnce between Mugen wheels and Rota. Is it weight? Or just a name brand thing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

alot of differences in rotas

material, weight, and they dont make forged

but most importantly

mugen=1200$
rota=400$

go figure

oh and the first picture MIGHT be rotas...it was taken from cardomain

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlammedDC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's the name, personally I will take some Rotas for $400-$500 vs paying 2k-2500 for the same thing minues a name stamped on the wheel</TD></TR></TABLE>

not so...but for me

rotas&gt;mugen

c'mon guys, if you get jacked there goes 1500 bucks down the drain

 

Rotas = Cast
Mugens = Forged

 

what size are those on the civic, and what size would you recommed for a 00 gsr 2dr

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlammedDC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's the name, personally I will take some Rotas for $400-$500 vs paying 2k-2500 for the same thing minues a name stamped on the wheel</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not really...they are manufactured differently. It's like nike and payless.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bg-33p &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not really...they are manufactured differently. It's like nike and payless.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ehh not a good comparison considering nikes are made in the same sweat shop with the same workmanship behind.

 

Its more than just a name, its quality


and those are mugen center caps... maybe they arent rotas

 

i used to have volk te37 cups and they got stolen. i will now only rock rotas or painted oem wheels.

 

Those are real Mugens in the picture.

There are numerous differences, as mentioned above. What is best for you is for you to decide.

Here are some reasons to go with real wheels vs fake wheels (and visa versa):

Return Investment
You can feasibly buy Mugen's for say, $1,200 and a year later sell them for same, if not more than what you paid. Or you can trade them for equally valuable wheels (i.e. Regamasters/Work RSZ-R's, etc.) You cant do that with Rotas.

Quality
Mugens are forged, not cast. The forging process is more expensive than pouring metal in a mold (cast). Therefore, forged wheels are more pricey but are lighter & stronger. Also, I trust Mugen QC process over a company like Rota.

Price
Rota's are obviously cheaper, so that makes them great for daily driven cars where theft is always a risk. Personally, I would never use Mugens on a DD car. Too much risk involved.

Your car
What kind of build are doing? How dope is your car? Wheels make a huge statement about your taste and how much effort you put into your car. If you're going all out...I mean all the way out...then why would you settle for knock off wheels? But if you just want a clean ride to get you to work/school/whatever, then aint nothing wrong with Rota's...I would rock them any day.

Again, it's all on how you want to build your car and what level you wan to go.

 

well said

 

wow carma, i think your the only one that helped me out lol. well im 17 so i dont have the cash flow to drop 1200 but my 00 gsr is a dd and just wanted something a little better looking. What size and offset would you recommend? and if anyone has pics of there integra with c-10 or c-8's please post em up. one last one. i have a red car, which color do you guys think look best. silver, gunmetal, bronze, or gold?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stuie08 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow carma, i think your the only one that helped me out lol. well im 17 so i dont have the cash flow to drop 1200 but my 00 gsr is a dd and just wanted something a little better looking. What size and offset would you recommend? and if anyone has pics of there integra with c-10 or c-8's please post em up. one last one. i have a red car, which color do you guys think look best. silver, gunmetal, bronze, or gold?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha, no problem.

For wheel size, there's two ways to go about it: function or looks. 16" wheels look the best on Integra's but 15" wheels would probably be more functional. Alot of the guys in the ITR forum would tell you to run the smallest wheel that will clear the caliper, which would be 15's. Also consider that 15's are cheaper to replace and some would argue that there are more tire choices in the 15" size. Personally, 16's do it for me

As for offset, I believe stock is 42. So you can go anywhere from 35 up to 42. Remember the lower the numer, the more your wheel will stick out and more lip you're going to have. I'm not 100% familiar with offset so dont take my word as gospel. Do your homework

Silver, bronze, gunmetal, and gold ALL look great with red cars. So you gotta choose for yourself.

As for pics, check out the Appearance section. Better yet, do a quick search and I'm sure you find tons of pics.

 

16's are the way to go. Dropped an inch and your ride to teh sexx.

 

if you like these then you should check out the mf10 L mirror face ones..but they are pretty pricey and i think they are discontinued

 

The real Mugen MF10s sold new for $550 each, without the center caps. They weigh 11 pounds. The real advantage of the forged wheel is not only the mass, but where the mass is located. The forged Mugen wheels have a much thinner outer rim because the forged metal is stronger. This mass distribution significantly reduces the rotational inertia of the wheel.

 

those are real..... much sharper spokes and

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The forged Mugen wheels have a much thinner outer rim because the forged metal is stronger. This mass distribution significantly reduces the rotational inertia of the wheel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

here are some fakes for comparison

 

I agree that they are real. The MF10s only came in the 5x114.3mm bolt pattern. The picture of the fakes has a 4x100mm pattern. The MF10Ls have a 4x100mm pattern, but they were a 15" wheel and came in either white or a mirror finish.

 

I think the Si above has real MF-10's.
I don't think Bronze would will stand on red, but i think white will stand out best. Its up to you, so just look around to see what you like best.


here are the 16" C-10's wit 205-50-16 on my caR.(I plan to paint them in the near future. thinking about gold or bronze)

(BTW this is stock R height. I really need a drop)