Auto to manual swap question
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Rochester, NY, United States
I know that i need the 5spd front mount. However, can can anyone tell me what number it is in this picture? i'm guessing 3, but i'm not sure.
you need 3, and an aftermarket one to replace ? <ithink cant really see it too well, or drill out and reweld the oem one to use ?? go aftermarket
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 134
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From: Rochester, NY, United States
according to majestic honda 1, is the compressor bracket. I bought an Innovative Mounts a/t m/t conversion mount for the top mount on the transmission so that it would be all bolt up.
here's a link, http://www.hondaautomotivepart...MOUNT
here's a link, http://www.hondaautomotivepart...MOUNT
That picture is really bad so I cant really make out the number to the Tranny mount... Either way the tranny mount is the one where you need an aftermarket auto-manual swap mount... OR if you can get the tranny mount BRACKET rewelded a little further forward you can use the Stock manual mount.... If you dont the motor will sit almost diagonal... As for the other mounts I have no idea because the D16z6 motor/tranny came with all the manual mounts...
Oh yeah I forgot to tell you where you can get the conversion mount.... I got mine from Place racing, however I believe they dont exist anymore.... I heard Hasport has a really nice one... Good luck...
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 134
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From: Rochester, NY, United States
I think i got the mount your talking about, the top mount. I was under the belief i also needed the front mount, the one i have an arrow pointing to in the picture.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kevoweb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think i got the mount your talking about, the top mount. I was under the belief i also needed the front mount, the one i have an arrow pointing to in the picture.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you need the auto to manual mount for the upper tranny. the lower tranny mount, you can use any one from a b-series motor. the lower one is actually like a bracket that a smaller mount bolts to then it bolts to the side of the lower frame.
actually it is the exact mount used on the opposite side for the a/c bracket.
whatevre you do, do not reweld the mount bracket, to much work.
</TD></TR></TABLE>you need the auto to manual mount for the upper tranny. the lower tranny mount, you can use any one from a b-series motor. the lower one is actually like a bracket that a smaller mount bolts to then it bolts to the side of the lower frame.
actually it is the exact mount used on the opposite side for the a/c bracket.
whatevre you do, do not reweld the mount bracket, to much work.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Rochester, NY, United States
thanks. Well i've got the conversion mount for the upper mount on order. I just need that lower bracket then? and the b-series lower bracket will work on my d-series transmission?
thanks for the help on this fellas
thanks for the help on this fellas
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kevoweb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks. Well i've got the conversion mount for the upper mount on order. I just need that lower bracket then? and the b-series lower bracket will work on my d-series transmission?
thanks for the help on this fellas</TD></TR></TABLE>
HOLD ON! i totally missed understood, i thought you were doing a b-series swap auto to manual. SORRY!
no, the b-series will not work you will need one from a d-series, that's all. it'll bolt right on.
thanks for the help on this fellas</TD></TR></TABLE>
HOLD ON! i totally missed understood, i thought you were doing a b-series swap auto to manual. SORRY!
no, the b-series will not work you will need one from a d-series, that's all. it'll bolt right on.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Rochester, NY, United States
actually i've got one more question. in JDM-EJ1's parts list he mentioned the inspection plate. I'm still a little confused as to what this piece is and if it is required. here's a link to the thread, https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1316692
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kevoweb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually i've got one more question. in JDM-EJ1's parts list he mentioned the inspection plate. I'm still a little confused as to what this piece is and if it is required. here's a link to the thread, https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1316692</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow, i've never even heard of that. it's really not need and the swap can still be done.
wow, i've never even heard of that. it's really not need and the swap can still be done.
Inspection plate is just the flywheel cover plate. You dont need it but it does pervent rocks and **** kicking up to your flywheel.
If this is a 92-95 auto to manual then all you really need is the auto to manual mount. That front trans bracket is not needed because the mount is solid. All the other mounts use the D series that came with the car.
If this is a 92-95 auto to manual then all you really need is the auto to manual mount. That front trans bracket is not needed because the mount is solid. All the other mounts use the D series that came with the car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kevoweb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can the bolts used to attach the automatic transmission to the engine be reused on the manual transmission?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Bolting to the engine should be a direct replacement. Use the automatic bolts. You might have to get a m/t starter bolt... the m/t one is longer apparently.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Bolting to the engine should be a direct replacement. Use the automatic bolts. You might have to get a m/t starter bolt... the m/t one is longer apparently.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Rochester, NY, United States
I swapped my pedal assembly and i am not sure what i need to do with the wiring of the clutch pedal. there are two sensors on it and i'm not sure how they should be wired up to actually function. help please
wow, you need some help.
Ok, for the mounts, you have two options. Drill out the actual mount on the frame rail and weld in the one for a manual, then use the correct manual tranny mount, so everything is OEM.
Or, get an aftermarket mount and retain the original frame rail mount.
Other than that, all other mounts should fit and work fine.
For the pedals, one is the cruise kill switch, the other is the clutch switch. You don't NEED either.
If you don't put in the cruise kill switch, it will not turn the cruise off if you tap the clutch like it should. If you don't have cruise, get rid of the switch that is engaged when the clutch is fully released (up).
The other switch is what allows you to start the car on a manual. The car will not need it. I removed mine and put in a bolt to stop the pedal. You will be able to start the car without pushing the clutch, but remember to NOT park it in gear.
You do not need the flywheel plate. It's annoying to put back on, always gets bent, etc.
The bolts on the bell housing are the same.
Like someone said, the starter AND one bolt will need to come from the 5spd.
You will also need 5spd flywheel bolts. The AT ones say AT on the head of the bolt and are slightly shorter, due to the flex plate being so thin. You CAN run the AT ones, but I wouldn't recommend it. Having those strip out would be a major pain in the ***.
Post up more questions if you have em.
Ok, for the mounts, you have two options. Drill out the actual mount on the frame rail and weld in the one for a manual, then use the correct manual tranny mount, so everything is OEM.
Or, get an aftermarket mount and retain the original frame rail mount.
Other than that, all other mounts should fit and work fine.
For the pedals, one is the cruise kill switch, the other is the clutch switch. You don't NEED either.
If you don't put in the cruise kill switch, it will not turn the cruise off if you tap the clutch like it should. If you don't have cruise, get rid of the switch that is engaged when the clutch is fully released (up).
The other switch is what allows you to start the car on a manual. The car will not need it. I removed mine and put in a bolt to stop the pedal. You will be able to start the car without pushing the clutch, but remember to NOT park it in gear.
You do not need the flywheel plate. It's annoying to put back on, always gets bent, etc.
The bolts on the bell housing are the same.
Like someone said, the starter AND one bolt will need to come from the 5spd.
You will also need 5spd flywheel bolts. The AT ones say AT on the head of the bolt and are slightly shorter, due to the flex plate being so thin. You CAN run the AT ones, but I wouldn't recommend it. Having those strip out would be a major pain in the ***.
Post up more questions if you have em.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 134
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From: Rochester, NY, United States
thanks, i've already taken care of the mount stuff, the clutch cover i bought, i also bought new flywheel bolts (3.08 a piece on hondaautomotive parts.com
)
thanks for the info on the pedals
)thanks for the info on the pedals
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bakeoff »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The other switch is what allows you to start the car on a manual. The car will not need it. I removed mine and put in a bolt to stop the pedal. You will be able to start the car without pushing the clutch, but remember to NOT park it in gear.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok sorry to bump a 6 day old thread however, I was curious about this part.
On cars that have had an auto to manual swap(or even on manual), IF you take out that switch, NOT to park it in gear. Just curious why is that?
The other switch is what allows you to start the car on a manual. The car will not need it. I removed mine and put in a bolt to stop the pedal. You will be able to start the car without pushing the clutch, but remember to NOT park it in gear.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok sorry to bump a 6 day old thread however, I was curious about this part.
On cars that have had an auto to manual swap(or even on manual), IF you take out that switch, NOT to park it in gear. Just curious why is that?


