I have a 1995 Honda Accord EX. I replaced the heater core last year. It does not heat very hot. I have it cranked all the way up and I'm still freezing. One thing I have noticed that when I am driving the temperture gage never goes up. If I leave the car idil it will go up a little but the car still does not get warm. I took it back after the heater core was replaced and supposedly they tested it and told me it was heating great. We'll after driving my other cars the heat in the accord is terrible. If I change the Thermostat will that take car of my problem? Or, do I need to do something else to it to make it heat up? Thanks for your help!

 

lol, wow, those mechanics must be retarded. That is a classic symptom of a dysfunctional thermostat. When it's stuck open it won't allow the coolant to stay warm and constantly send it to the radiator. One thing that might also prove it more is if you can get the temp. needle to raise, while it is going up, blast the heat on and see if the needle drops.

 

it is one of two things, either the thermostat, which is more likely judgeing by the gauge bearly moveing. or the heater control valve stuck. I think that the oem thermostat, that fully opens at 170*F, is low, but I haven't tried the 180, or 190 personaly. I actualy just replaced mying, and it takes like five min. or so to fully warm up with the 170. By the way get a fail safe one. they are desinged to stay open in case it does get stuck, so you wouln't over heat your engien.

 

Dont buy any thermostats from autozone. I just went through the same problem and after trying their 170 180 and 195 stats I realized there is a problem. I bought an oem and compared it to autozone's and they are way different the springs are bigger on oem, and there is an extra seal to keep it shut tight. The car warms up in 3 minutes now and has great heat

 

OK thanks for the help, a few questions

1. What do you mean with the numbers 170, 180 and 195 Stats?

2. What does OEM stand for

3. Was it something simple to change our yourself or does a mechanic need to do it. I can do basic stuff and as long as I don't have to break into something I think I could handle doing it.

Thanks for your help!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95white &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK thanks for the help, a few questions

1. What do you mean with the numbers 170, 180 and 195 Stats?

2. What does OEM stand for

3. Was it something simple to change our yourself or does a mechanic need to do it. I can do basic stuff and as long as I don't have to break into something I think I could handle doing it.

Thanks for your help!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Answers:
1. these numbers represent the temp inwhich the thermostat opens ie 170 degree F

2. OEM stands for original equipment manufacturer

3. you can change it yourself. drain the coolant, pop off the top rad hose, then there should be 2 bolts in the thermostat housing. take that off, scrape off the old gasket from both mating surfaces. pull out the old t-stat, plop in the new one. throw on a new gasket (i use some rtv with the gasket, just a thought). put the cover on the t stat housing, bolt it down, put on your hose. then refill with coolant, and let the car idle and make sure the fans come one at least 2 times. you can bleed the coolant system, however, in my experience, ive never done it and never had a problem. i just squeeze the top hose a bunch of time

hope this helps you out.

 

Try following the LOWER radiator hose to the block, there is a cover with 2-10mm bolts thru it. THAT is the T-stat location.
When you are refilling the radiator open the 12mm bleed screw at the T-stat housing until coolant flows from it, then close it off and fill the radiator.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondadude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try following the LOWER radiator hose to the block, </TD></TR></TABLE>

your right it is the lower, my bad