So im currently saving money to make an attempt at creating one of the few 7th gen beasts. But, d17 and beast dont really go together. But, i love that engine. And it would be much easier to work on it. But a couple months down the road i dont want to look back realizing i spent enough money on a d17 to get a swap. Of course i want a k20a2. But, i mine as well get a custom engine built out of pure gold. The k20a3 doesnt seem like a big enough improvement from a d17 to warrant a swap. k24a2.............. . So im left with the high torque average horsepower k24's. But, i dont think thats a bad thing. Anyone know anything about the non a2 k24's, specically the swaps. And do aftermarket parts from other k's fit k24's.

For sale:

OBX Headers and Downpipe-100.00-downpipe unused, headers are on now.

Silver carbon fiber wrapped muffler- 75.00 obo-unused

Clarke Arc Welder-300.00-unused

 

The K20a3 is a huge improvement over the stock D17. Plus, it's loads cheaper than an a2.

 

a3's are HUGE improvements, dont kid urself.

The torque alone will make u smile a lot more.

They actually respond to boltons, unlike the d17. People are seeing 160ish whp with just minor bolton's, which isnt great, but its a LOAD better than the 120whp u will get with a LOT of bolton's on the d17a2.

I havent even touched the boost section yet.. If down the road u ever want more power, put 7-8 psi on a k20a3, and ull roll on 250ish whp, now that is a cheap and hella fast setup.

I myself would go k24a1/3/4, but if the k20a3 can be found for cheap enough, i would go that route.

 

as i recall, someone here use to bash on k20a3's....

 

k20a2s are going down you can get a full long block for 1800 then all you need is a tranny and everything else, also a2 headswap and crack on a a3 i herd does wonders, so if you go a3 you can do a a3a2 frank, boost , N02 skys the limits


Modified by bravo831 at 7:17 PM 2/8/2007

 

Well if i cant swap in a much better engine then i want to go big. R u talking to me about bashing a3's. I dont remember that, doesnt sound like me considering k series haunt my dreams. I didnt know k20a3's have about 130 whp until recently. I was thinking 140's 50's since they're rated at 160. I dont see myself swapping in a 130 hp engine. Thats all im saying. If it not going to be the a2 its going to be turbo or n20. Can the k24134 handle more then the a3 or about the same.

 

I hear what your saying though Vantage, I think im gonna just gonna save some more money and just keep my eyes open for what shows up.


My damn d series can never get any love.

 

meh...i love the d17 thats all that matters...

built turbo d's ftw!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Curiouz_G &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as i recall, someone here use to bash on k20a3's.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have no idea what ur talking about
And he was talking to me, i used to hate hard on k20a3's.


I would look for k20a3's, im sure once u swap it with i/h/e and kpro ull see ur 155-160 whp. They are around 135 stock i believe

 

i agree boost_junkie d17's are nicer then popular opinion. What kind of results have u seen with d17 turbo.

 

dont do the k20a3 when u can do a k24 from a crv/element

then just do a frankenstein later, slap a k20a2 head on that k24 block and you're set

 

i still dont know why people hate on the k20a3, espeically if your looking to boost. that things stock compression is very low so its ideal for it. plus, mated with an a2 head, its not something to laugh at.

oh and some food for thought, a complete k20a3 motor swap with labor done yourself is around the same price if not cheaper than buying a full kit, even though people piece together their kits and keep it around 2500-3000. but still, with a couple of bolt ons, it'll give a turbo'd any run for its money.

 

dont see anything great in the k20a3 as long as the k24 is around... same hp, 30ft/lb more torque, how does it compare?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Synapz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont see anything great in the k20a3 as long as the k24 is around... same hp, 30ft/lb more torque, how does it compare?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It can be found for 1000-1500 less is its strong point.

 

i thought the k20a3 came in the civic SI's? you guys are talking like it only produces 135 to the wheels? What did they do to the Si to make it produce higher?

 

wre talking about the hatchback 7thgen SI's with the k20a3's. the new SI's i believe have the k20z3 which produces 200hp

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ley &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i thought the k20a3 came in the civic SI's? you guys are talking like it only produces 135 to the wheels? What did they do to the Si to make it produce higher?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes the k20a3 only produces 135 ish to the wheels, but it actually responds to boltons, plus it is amazing for boost.

The reason it produces higher #'s is because its a K series, where we are a D series.

 

you are looking at around 1000 for a good tranny, plus all of the other stuff that you are going to need, you will have around 3k in the engine and tranny. Check around on K20a.org sometimes you can pick up some good deals, especially if you don't mind doing a bit of work on something.

 

youcant just throw on a k20a2 head on a k24, you have to mod it

 

I never said you could BTW you don't have to "mod" anything. All you need is the K24 bottom end, K20a2 head, intake manifold, TB, and Kpro and it should work just fine. There may be a bit more wiring invovled, but if there is it would not be much. Infact the K24a2 (TSX) has the same head as the K20a2, just different cams so it is the same combination. I think the K24 block is deeper, so you may need a different oil pan due to clearance issues, especially if you are dropped. Get the engine mounts from Haspor and you are good to go


Modified by bgoetz at 2:37 AM 2/12/2007

 

i have read the only ones that are just bolt on, is the tsx hea and the k20z1 head, all the rest have to be machined to work

 

no it should just bolt right on, like I said the TSX head is the K20a2 head just with different cams. And the z1 head?? I am not sure how that would work, but I am assuming that with a a2 TB and addapter to get it to fit on the intake manifold it should work??

 

The TSX and K20A heads ARE different. All K series heads have the same combustion chamber sizes, but the TSX's head doesn't flow as well as the K20's. Also I've only heard of piston to valve clearance issues with the K24A4's and maybe K24A3's. The K24A1 block should bolt right up. I'm about to go find the link on K20 that tells about the differences in head flow.

Here's that link that talks about the head differences: http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15348


Modified by TN90accord at 11:08 AM 2/12/2007

 

What are the consequences smog wise with swapping in the k20A2?

 

yea will go ahead bash the k20a3 but hey when you put one in a em2 which used to have a d17 i mean come on it is a big improvment considering your puting an si into a exlxdx
im putting a kseries in mine in 2-3 months