would like to know what kind of after market rods and pistons people are using in there H22's. i was planing on a bottom end rebuild and was up for suggestions. i would like to make about 210-220 all motor hp and a 100 shot.

 

endyne, cp, je, eagle, you name it people are using it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clayton bigsby &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would like to know what kind of after market rods and pistons people are using in there H22's. i was planing on a bottom end rebuild and was up for suggestions.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What kinda of setup do you have in mind? It would help us point you in the right direction

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by darkspector2.0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">endyne, cp, je, eagle, you name it people are using it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont want to sleeve my block

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by darkspector2.0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">endyne, cp, je, eagle, you name it people are using it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont want to sleeve my block

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by md23vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What kinda of setup do you have in mind? It would help us point you in the right direction </TD></TR></TABLE>

my setup is h22 head with crower springs retainers cams cam gears with euro R manifold. im just down to the bottom end of my build.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clayton bigsby &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

my setup is h22 head with crower springs retainers cams cam gears with euro R manifold. im just down to the bottom end of my build. </TD></TR></TABLE>

H22 or H23 bottom end?


lol I smell missing gears coming into this thread shortly he is stalking me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by md23vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

H22 or H23 bottom end?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i have both bottom ends. still deciding which to build

 

If you dont want to sleeve i believe that narrows you down to OEM, Type-S or Manhley (spl?)?

 

white power.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clayton bigsby &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would like to know what kind of after market rods and pistons people are using in there H22's. i was planing on a bottom end rebuild and was up for suggestions. i would like to make about 210-220 all motor hp and a 100 shot. </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clayton bigsby &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i dont want to sleeve my block </TD></TR></TABLE>


You need to sleeve if you want aftermarket pistons. If you do not want to sleeve the only option you have are Type-s. Or the Mahle but after seeing with my own eyes what a few sets of Mahle pistons have done on 3 seterate motors I would highly suggest you stay away from them just my 2cents

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">white power.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes yes

just wondering who eles has experinced with these pistons

 

The only problem I see with Mahle is the fact that its a piston that will run on a frm wall but you have to service that wall if you wanna get any type of life out of it. Then when you service it, you remove material and weakens the cylinder. For what reasons unknown I can't believe that this industry designs pistons that require sleeving the block? Its *** backwards! Only in the import world

Try calling around...like Swain or Polydyne and find out where you can get a fresh frm coating on a fresh bore. Be unique! That way you can enjoy the Hp without pushing an extra 30+lbs of steel down the road.

 

30 lbs of steel = peace of mind

I plan on a build soon, and running my options, sleeving is pretty much what will keep my mind at ease

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludesleep &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only problem I see with Mahle is the fact that its a piston that will run on a frm wall but you have to service that wall if you wanna get any type of life out of it. Then when you service it, you remove material and weakens the cylinder. For what reasons unknown I can't believe that this industry designs pistons that require sleeving the block? Its *** backwards! Only in the import world

Try calling around...like Swain or Polydyne and find out where you can get a fresh frm coating on a fresh bore. Be unique! That way you can enjoy the Hp without pushing an extra 30+lbs of steel down the road.</TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry, but you are wrong

1st of all sleeves dont way anywhere near 30 lbs.. i have never actually weighed a set, but i have purchased and have had several sets installed. i would say its more like less than 10 lbs.

2nd of all, servicing the cylinder wall means honing the surface layer (glaze) off so that its back to a new fresh surface to allow the rings to seat. this does not weaken the cylinder walls in the least bit. hell, you can overbore the stock frm liners .25 and not have any worrys. and by the way, frm is not a "coating". it is what the stock cylinder liners are made of. they are not coated w/ anything.

3rd of all, everyone that i have heard of using mhale pistons have had nothing but bad luck w/ them. they are nowhere near as strong as aftermarket pistons such as cp, wiseco, je which are made to stand up to heavy boosted applications and used in todays fastest import as well as domestic racecars. id like you to show me one racecar using mahle pistons

you should try to gain some experience first and learn something instead of spreading false information like that around these forums

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1702889

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1702889</TD></TR></TABLE>

alot of nice looking work in that thread, but the 3 points i made are correct.

1 sleeves dont weigh anything near 30 lbs.

2 honing "servicing" does not weaken the cylinder. a slight overbore does not weaken the cylinder noticably. frm is not a coating, it is a solid material that the cylinder linings are made of.

3 mahle pistons are nowhere near as strong as other aftermarket pistons.

if ludesleep would like to argue those points i would be more than happy to talk about it.

and btw, stating that the industry only desinges pistons that require sleeving is also incorrect. b series dont require sleeving for aftermarket pistons because they already use a cast iron sleeve from the factory. its not the aftermarket companies who are assbackwards. it was honda, NOT giving the h sreies iron sleeves like almost every other auto manufacturer uses.

 

and lets not forget that not only do sleeves weigh alot less than 30 lbs. your also removing the same amount of material from the block that the sleeve is going to replace. so basically, lets say the sleeves weigh roughly 10 lbs. the aluminum that you bore out of the block to install the sleeves will likely weigh at leat 1/3 that much. and then you will bore and hone the new sleeves removing even more material from them. you will probably end up weighing about 5 lbs. more than you did in the first place.....a far cry from adding 30 lbs.

 

thats still too much, I've been maxing out my weight reduction, I saved about 3 lbs with no paint on my car, and about 160 lbs by removing my wheels and tires(double whammy because its less unsprung weight too) and I just recently removed my doors and roof of my car, my next mod is.... lightweight sleeves FTW

 

you should get a lightweight windshield.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Speedra500 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats still too much, I've been maxing out my weight reduction, I saved about 3 lbs with no paint on my car, and about 160 lbs by removing my wheels and tires(double whammy because its less unsprung weight too) and I just recently removed my doors and roof of my car, my next mod is.... lightweight sleeves FTW </TD></TR></TABLE>

i would just take the whole body/interior off the car, shorten the wheelbase considerably and sit on top of the motor backwards to drive it.

 

i was thinking maybe I could make a support to connect to the control arms and steering arms, and then just balance myself on the valvecover, probably would need at least a wheelie bar or a small wheel to keep from falling over during acceleration, i think that would work out though, maybe someway to turn. but who cares about turning when you can stop and pick up the side of your vehicle to point it in a different direction?

 

Porsches use Mahle aftermarket pistons... wonder why they screwed up on their honda design....

 

their are guys that boost those mahle's with sucess
their pretty strong

 

and the frm are stronger than the iron b series sleeves
they just cannot accept pistons with a faster expantion rate

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alterdcreations &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">their are guys that boost those mahle's with sucess
their pretty strong</TD></TR></TABLE>

ive never heard of any

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alterdcreations &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and the frm are stronger than the iron b series sleeves
they just cannot accept pistons with a faster expantion rate</TD></TR></TABLE>

that is incorrect. frm is a softer material than cast iron. the frm liners themselves are not stronger than a b series cast iron sleeve.