So last summer I picked up a greddy cooling plate for my USDM front R for $60 (I think?) thinking WTH its only $60 maybe it will work

I drive last summer at track days and to my amazement this thing really does work!
So I drive today and it is 55 out side and well the car will only hit the 1st mark on the temp gauge and go no higher unless I am sitting at a light and then goes back down once I start moving again.

You guys think I will hurt anything by it not running as hot?

for cooling plate. Who knew? I figured it was a gimmick

 

Do you know how a cooling plate works ? What does it do ?

 

goes on top of core support and radiator. Is supposed to re dirrect air into the radiator that comes through the "mouth" of the front bumper

more air through the radiator = cooler temps

this one is made from sheet metal and seems to be just stamped into the shape it is in. Not real hard to figure out. Honestly I didnt think it would work before I got it.

 

by cooling plate I believe he is referring to a shroud that forces air to flow thru the radiator and does not let it go around it instead. if your car doesnt reach right operating temperature it will not run correct. it may still think its in "warm up mode". and I find it hard to believe a cooling plate shround thingy will have that much of an effect. it sounds more like your thermo/temp switch may be having a problem. just throwing that out there.

 

from password sight: (mine is mad eby greddy though)
The cooling system is a vital component of a vehicles operation. The radiator needs constant airflow, with minimum turbulence, to be as efficient as possible. Unfortunately, gaps in the structure around the radiator allow air to escape, resulting in lost efficiency. We have designed our line of Aluminum Radiator Cooling Plates to eliminate this problem. By preventing air to escape over the top of the radiator, these cooling plates allow a maximum amount of airflow directly to your radiator, resulting in reduced coolant temperatures during aggressive driving.

All Password:JDM Radiator Cooling Plates are constructed from high quality aluminum, and then finished in a high-density epoxy coating proprietary to Password:JDM. This coating provides a long lasting, durable finish that cannot be found anywhere else!

This cooling plate has been specifically designed to fit all 1994-2001 Integra models equipped with the original USDM front end (round headlights).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">by cooling plate I believe he is referring to a shroud that forces air to flow thru the radiator and does not let it go around it instead. if your car doesnt reach right operating temperature it will not run correct. it may still think its in "warm up mode". and I find it hard to believe a cooling plate shround thingy will have that much of an effect. it sounds more like your thermo/temp switch may be having a problem. just throwing that out there. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">by cooling plate I believe he is referring to a shroud that forces air to flow thru the radiator and does not let it go around it instead. if your car doesnt reach right operating temperature it will not run correct. it may still think its in "warm up mode". and I find it hard to believe a cooling plate shround thingy will have that much of an effect. it sounds more like your thermo/temp switch may be having a problem. just throwing that out there. </TD></TR></TABLE>

take the plate off and temps return to normal. I already thought of the sensor messing up.
And yes after highway driving when you come to stop it still does think it is warming up. (OBD1 ECU= REvs bounce between 1000 and 1500)

as far as effect, I am not lieing I can take pics of the temp gauge if you would like.

I am no way trying to sell this on anyone and I already stated how I didnt think this would work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITRacer121 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

....And yes after highway driving when you come to stop it still does think it is warming up. (OBD1 ECU= REvs bounce between 1000 and 1500)

</TD></TR></TABLE>

that could be numerous other problems. does the rev bouncing only occur when the cooling plate is installed?

if the temps return back to normal with the plate off then I guess it could be working very efficiently when installed. i have no personal experience with shrounds on my R so i cant say one way or the other how well they work. i was just throwing that out there.

 

You have a pic with this plate installed on a USDM front car? I cant picture it in my head how it works... I could understand on the JDM front...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

that could be numerous other problems. does the rev bouncing only occur when the cooling plate is installed?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

OBD1 ECU's do this when they are not warmed up. Car has done this on all OBD1 ecus I have ever owned even on hondata.
Rev bouncing only occurs when car is NOT WARM reguardless of plate installed or not


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You have a pic with this plate installed on a USDM front car? I cant picture it in my head how it works... I could understand on the JDM front...</TD></TR></TABLE>

not now Im at work but I can post one later. It looks and works the same as the one on a JDM front. They are no different, except for the shape to fit the different core support and radiator fitment. There are pics of them uninstalled on the passwordjdm website
sorry best I can do for now


BUT Back to the original question: Anyone think it will cause any problems running at the lower temps? or should I take it off while it is cool out side?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITRacer121 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

OBD1 ECU's do this when they are not warmed up. Car has done this on all OBD1 ecus I have ever owned even on hondata.
Rev bouncing only occurs when car is NOT WARM reguardless of plate installed or not


not now Im at work but I can post one later. It looks and works the same as the one on a JDM front. They are no different, except for the shape to fit the different core support and radiator fitment. There are pics of them uninstalled on the passwordjdm website
sorry best I can do for now


BUT Back to the original question: Anyone think it will cause any problems running at the lower temps? or should I take it off while it is cool out side? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Please do. Can you even see the plate with the bumper on? Reason I ask this is because the bumper is level with the radiator support.

I would take it off while the weather is cool, I'm sure its not the healthiest thing to have your car in "warm-up" mode all the time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITRacer121 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

OBD1 ECU's do this when they are not warmed up. Car has done this on all OBD1 ecus I have ever owned even on hondata.
Rev bouncing only occurs when car is NOT WARM reguardless of plate installed or not
</TD></TR></TABLE>

that doesnt mean it cant be something else like your TB sticking or the IACV. my 1992 civic is OBD1 and doesnt bounce around when cold.

 

its the silver piece

 

So really, the only thing that does is keep air coming up thru that little gap between the back of the radiator support and radiator?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So really, the only thing that does is keep air coming up thru that little gap between the back of the radiator support and radiator?</TD></TR></TABLE>

seems pretty retarded dosnt it
but hey what can I say? its working?


oh and forgot to update you guys asyou can tell from the pics I am home now and the temp rose to approx 70 and the car got up to between the 2nd and 3rd mark on the temp guage. Car ran fine and everything is a-okay! man I miss DD my ITR!

 

Yea, i guess. From the design it seem like it wouldnt do that much..

 

I always wondered...yeah its great that helps prevent air from going over the top of the rad...but what about the sides and bottom?

And if you want real data, install a temp gauge and let us know the actual numbers. Im curious to know.

edit: also is this with a stock radiator? if thats the case, this shroud would eliminate the need of all aftermarket radiators

 

yes this is a stock radiator
and yes it does eliminate the need for an after market
Buddy has a Koyo in his 98 R and my car runs cooler then his on the track

there is nothing on the bottom and it goes about 1-2inches down the sides
Im assuming that the way the wind is dirrected that there is no need to cover these areas. (the air is pushed from ground level, through the radiator, over the header, over the motor and out right before the windshield.)

 

i think it's important to mention that you have the mugen radiator cap. do you also have an aftermarket thermo?

it's difficult to determine the effectiveness of the cooling plate alone with the mugen cap and/or the thermo.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nightrider &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think it's important to mention that you have the mugen radiator cap. do you also have an aftermarket thermo?

it's difficult to determine the effectiveness of the cooling plate alone with the mugen cap and/or the thermo. </TD></TR></TABLE>

are you kidding me? do you even understand how the radiator cap works?

I do have a Mugen radiator cap but the thermo is stock

 

Here's a pic of the plate.

 

ooooh farbin ciber BLING!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITRacer121 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

are you kidding me? do you even understand how the radiator cap works? </TD></TR></TABLE>
umm..makes more pressure in the system which raises the boiling point of the coolant which in turn can reduce coolant temps? do i get a cookie?

 

I would like to point out that VTEC will not engage unless your car is at normal operating temp...

 

car was not being beet on but just cruisen around