well my 91 crx has been off the road for over a month now, leaving me having to get rides and ride the bus...
a week before it shut down we did an sohc mpfi zc swap from a d16a6 dpfi... the car ran prefect for a week and i was still babying the new motor. the engine shut off while waiting in a drive up line at a bank, so not even moving other than the occasional couple feet ever 5 minutes...

the car has not ignition pulse and no spark, the car doesnt even try to turn on...

so we replaced the districutor and the cap, and have tried 3 different ecu's and 2 different main relays... with no luck

my uncle is asking me if these cars have any over ride shut off, and when does the ecu light up, like will it light up in accessory mode, when trying to crank it or what? the ecu is not showing any codes, and the battery has been recharged.

any suggestions, we have meticulously checked and rechecked all our wiring...

!!!!I NEED HELP ASAP!!!!!! this was/hopefully still is my daily driver... i don't want to but im about to have to buy another vehicle...

 

Well it is tough to tell.
You said no ignition.
I have seen the Igniter Unit go out and it caused similar symtoms.
You said you changed the distributor, do you meen just the cap?
The ignitor is in the distributor housing.
I think they are around $50 so you should check the manual.
The manual tells you how to check if you have a bad one.

Good luck.

 

distributor and the cap have been replaced with brand new ones. not even junk yard or ebay, but brand new

 

when you turn your key on does the dash light up?... if so and there is no cranking over of the engine i bet you have a bad "ignition switch" in your column...
try jumping your starter from the battery... ( run a cable from + side to your starter and see if it turns over and starts... if so

run a push button start to your starter and see what happens

this happened to me on my prelude
and once on my crx but that was the dizzy ( and it did crank over)

 

when i turn to the accessory key everything lights up like normal... all suggest to try that to my uncle... if that is the problem then you are saying to put in a push button start?

 

you should test your ignition switch to determine if it is bad, so you dont have to buy parts. then if it IS bad, buy a new ignition switch rather than reinventing the wheel with a pushbutton start.. a pushbutton start sounds cool and all, but then you have to sort out THAT wiring also, and a button that switches power from your battery to your starter will still not fix a faulty ignition switch, and will be a major fire hazzard if not set up correctly..i.e. not right wire guage, correct amperage rating for the button, etc.etc... does your battery show 12v? and is your distributor getting power?

dont short your battery to your starter, that will also probably cause more problems than it is worth.. i.e. melting the diodes in your alternator if you mix up the wires.

cliffs:
1. do NOT put in a push button start
2. check ignition switch.
3. check distributor for power
4. check battery for correct voltage.

do all these things and report back, and we will help you some more.

 

okay good i did not want to put in a push button start.

distributor has power, i think the battery had like 17v... i guess thats too much power... but when i told my uncle that he didnt seem to think of that as a problem... and im not sure but im pretty sure we checked the ignition switch.

 

I had the same problem turned out that the fuse for the ecu on the right strut tower blew.

Try checking the fuse and see if thatr helps you out at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sanimalp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should test your ignition switch to determine if it is bad, so you dont have to buy parts. then if it IS bad, buy a new ignition switch rather than reinventing the wheel with a pushbutton start.. a pushbutton start sounds cool and all, but then you have to sort out THAT wiring also, and a button that switches power from your battery to your starter will still not fix a faulty ignition switch, and will be a major fire hazzard if not set up correctly..i.e. not right wire guage, correct amperage rating for the button, etc.etc... does your battery show 12v? and is your distributor getting power?

dont short your battery to your starter, that will also probably cause more problems than it is worth.. i.e. melting the diodes in your alternator if you mix up the wires.

cliffs:
1. do NOT put in a push button start
2. check ignition switch.
3. check distributor for power
4. check battery for correct voltage.

do all these things and report back, and we will help you some more.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

the only reason i suggest a push start is because a lot of people dont' have time and money to go through and place a new ignition in... in the long run a two wire push start was a lot easier for me and cheaper... ..... thats why i only suggested it instead of advocating it

 

let me enfisize the fact that there is NO SPARK AND NO FUEL PULSE

something not involving spark or fuel pulse will not fix the problem... i dont know how a push start would ignite a spark or pulse the fuel...

as well i have checked all the fuses.

i appreciate the help, but it seems like people are over looking the fact that i said that there is no fuel pulse and no spark.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rewerbcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the only reason i suggest a push start is because a lot of people dont' have time and money to go through and place a new ignition in... in the long run a two wire push start was a lot easier for me and cheaper... ..... thats why i only suggested it instead of advocating it</TD></TR></TABLE>

hey, no big deal, the suggestion would have worked,its just more complicated. i hazard a guess that the time to create a circuit that could handle the load and find a switch that could handle the amperage would probably be larger than going to honda and paying $75 for a new switch and just plugging it in after 5 mins of work. but i digress..

you state that you made a <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stemiched &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> week before it shut down we did an sohc mpfi zc swap from a d16a6 dpfi...</TD></TR></TABLE> which does not add up.. d16a6 are not dpfi.. are you saying you did a dx to zc engine swap? because if you didnt do the mpfi conversion correctly, then that is your entire problem. you should have had to wire in a resistor box and wiring for 4 injectors instead of 2, which explains your fuel, and you should have used an mpfi distributor, which may not explain why your car doesnt have spark, but it is probably part of the problem also. it doesnt explain why your car ran for a week or whatever and died though. and what about check engine lights at all. because there are check engine lights for distributor problems and injector problems, but if you are not seeing either.. then we have a big wiring issue.

did you use a conversion harness for the wiring? or did you do it yourself?

as for your no fuel problem, are you getting fuel to the fuel rail? is your fuel pump spinning up but no fuel to the rail? and what kind of fuel pressure are you seeing?

as for spark, how did you test for no spark? not having fuel and spark points to a much bigger electrical problem if you ask me. it could be the fuse on the strut tower that someone mentioned... or it could be a missing ground somewhere.. since you just swapped the engine, i would check grounds before anything else. if one came loose, that would be your whole problem.

and 17 volts is actually kinda high.. you should be seeing more like 14ish..

we need lots of details in order to help you.. keep going..

cliffs:
1. check your grounds.
2. check all your grounds again.
2. provide details of your swap, conversion harness, shadetree wiring project, etc.
3. inform on fuel pressure, fuel to the rail? fuel to the injectors?
4. inform on spark.. how did you test it.
5. check your grounds one last time.

 

alright well i will be doing all the checking of stuff this weekend, for i do not have a day off till then.

as for the motor i have no clue why the hell there was an a6 with dpfi...but the motor was an a6 block with i beleave a dx head... but not sure... it had the dpfi, the previous owner did all that, the body of the car i assume is a dx body though (no sun roof) and we put in an sohc zc, we did all the wireing ourself from manuels and what not from the internet, and we checked and rechecked all our work multiple times, but of course will be checking again. we are running a pm6 ecu and the correct distributor, i beleave the mpfi distributor has 6 or 7 wires compared to 4 or 5 for the dpfi correct? so yea we have the correct distributor, resistor box, and what not...

we checked the spark by taking a spark plug and wire out and ground the spark plug to a bolt and try to crank the engine to see if there was spark.

 

did you depin the ecu plugs or cut and resolder? if you cut and resolder, you might check the solder joints by unwrapping the wires to make sure the solder didnt burn off from too much amprage and not enough wire. that would explain the run for a week and now doesnt scenario.

sounds like you have the correct distributor.

did you check all the spark plugs? or just one?

 

well the one plug that needed added we had to add a plug, but other than that it was all cut and resolder, but we checked all our wires from the ecu to where they go and they all have connection before and after this, but of course we will recheck on sunday.

yea im pretty sure we have the correct distributor, expecially since the new one i got from a parts store and told them 91 crx si 1.6l d16a16. there is no way that would imply to give the the dpfi distributor...

i guess we only checked one spark plug...

 

we are curently working on the car and there is no INJECTOR PULSE and NO SPARK... i accidentally said ignition pulse before

 

well my no injector pulse and no spark problem has been fixed... i not being a mechanic could not actually tell you wtf was wrong... i just know that we fixed the problem by hot wiring one of the wires from the main relay to an accessory wire...

it worked and it doesn't go to a fuse so we figured it wont harm anything...