for my 1997 accord?

 

HUH? You mean turn it for a valve adjust?
Put a 19mm socket on a long extension then find the webbed hole in the splashshield behind the drivers side tire. Turn the steering all the way to the left.
Jam the socket/extension thru the hole and fish around till it gets on the crank pulley bolt.
The engine will be way easier to turn over with the spark plugs out.

 

Thanks a lot. so i don't need to take the driver side wheel out. a question why it will be easier with spark-plugs out?

 

no compression to fight

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chibiko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks a lot. so i don't need to take the driver side wheel out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

you don't have to, but it does make things easier

 

If you remove the wheel, you'll be less likely to forget that your socket & ratchet-handle are attached when you start the engine.
(don't ask me how I know...)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you remove the wheel, you'll be less likely to forget that your socket & ratchet-handle are attached when you start the engine.
(don't ask me how I know...)
</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha... that must have been quite a sceen!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you remove the wheel, you'll be less likely to forget that your socket & ratchet-handle are attached when you start the engine.
(don't ask me how I know...) </TD></TR></TABLE>

crank,crank,crank,vroomWHHIIIIZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ !

WTF?

oh ****!


LOL yeah, don't ask me either

 

make sure you use a duct tape to tape the 19mm with the extension, the arsehole in the plastic guide will drop the 19mm once you try to pull it out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iam7head &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">make sure you use a duct tape to tape the 19mm with the extension, the arsehole in the plastic guide will drop the 19mm once you try to pull it out.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
No way that happens to me I use my lug nut torque stick in there

 

WOOT finally able to find a easier way to turn the engine over :D used to have to pull on the belts but now ty... now.... i need a new flywheel teeth are gone on it and i need a new starter a new hood latch release wire and porb a new hood latch a new sunroof seal and trunk seal :D i think ima be poor for a bit (mine was a 17 mm socket ftw)

 

how long of the extension do i need for this job? only have 1' long extension at hand.

 

That should work. On my 6th gen, I used two 4 inch (I think) extensions.

 

i have a 3/8th's extension, 12 inches long(i think) plus . you dopn't have to take your tire off just turn it all the way so u have clearance. Also make sure you turn the pulley counterclockwise DO NOT ROTATE CLOCKWISE

 

don't mean to hog the post, but i just learned something if you remove your plugs, turning the crank pulley will be a lot easier. My ? is do you take them all out or just one.

 

All. If you remove one, you will get 0 compression in only one cylinder. When you get to the compression stroke of the other cylinders, it will become hard to turn again.

 

i remember that the haynes manual said to reach the TDC position, turn the crankshaft clockwise. afterthat, turn it counterclockwise to set valves, am i right?

 

this thread is cracking me up.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iam7head &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">make sure you use a duct tape to tape the 19mm with the extension, the arsehole in the plastic guide will drop the 19mm once you try to pull it out</TD></TR></TABLE>
LMAO!!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you remove the wheel, you'll be less likely to forget that your socket & ratchet-handle are attached when you start the engine.
(don't ask me how I know...) </TD></TR></TABLE>
yikes, haven't done that one yet myself. Bet you won't do that again! LOL

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1989 honda accord 2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">finally able to find a easier way to turn the engine over :D used to have to pull on the belts </TD></TR></TABLE>
oh my.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chibiko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i remember that the haynes manual said to reach the TDC position, turn the crankshaft clockwise. afterthat, turn it counterclockwise to set valves, am i right?</TD></TR></TABLE>NO!

The reason you only turn it forwards (counterclockwise for these Hondas) is the timing belt has a small risk of jumping teeth when turned opposite the normal direction of the engine.

 

Thanks for this important info.

 

do i have to open the distributor cover to make sure that the distributor rotor points to the number 1 cylinder when position number 1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke. the description on Hynes is a little bit confusing.

am i right that when the camshaft turns two 360 degree (one for compression stoke, one for exhaust stoke), it goes back to the same state. so there are two states when the arrow on the camshaft pointing "UP".

 

bump for that....hate to steal the thread but tdc instruction on the haynes manual SUCKS. if someone could explain how to get tdc for piston 1 in detail id appreciate it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chibiko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do i have to open the distributor cover to make sure that the distributor rotor points to the number 1 cylinder when position number 1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke. the description on Hynes is a little bit confusing.</TD></TR></TABLE>No. If you look at the distributor shaft, it has a blade that fits into the camshaft. That blade is off-center, so it should only fit one way. Problem is, it's not too too far off, so it's possible to force it in backwards. Don't force it, it should go together nicely.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chibiko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">am i right that when the camshaft turns two 360 degree (one for compression stoke, one for exhaust stoke), it goes back to the same state. so there are two states when the arrow on the camshaft pointing "UP".</TD></TR></TABLE>No. The camshaft turns one revolution for every TWO revolutions of the crankshaft.

When the marks on the crankshaft are lined up, the #1 piston is up. If the arrow on the camshaft happens to be pointing down, that just means it's at the top of the exhaust stroke, not the top of the compression stroke. In this case, turn the crankshaft one full revolution. The camshaft will turn 1/2 revolution, so then the arrow will point up.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lax1089 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bump for that....hate to steal the thread but tdc instruction on the haynes manual SUCKS. if someone could explain how to get tdc for piston 1 in detail id appreciate it</TD></TR></TABLE>Some of that detail depends on what car you're talking about. Honda used a couple different types of markings over the years.

 

Thanks. just figured out the relationship of camshaft and crankshaft this afternoon. i found that it is pretty straight foreward for 97 accord that the TDC of the number 1 cylinder is just the position when the arrow on the camshaft pulley points up. so there is no need of check the distributor rotor. only thing i found somehow usefull is that i can check whether the TDC on the crankshaft is sychronized with the camshaft marks or not. it looks pretty accurate for my car. don't know whether it means that the timing belt alignment is good.

 

If your timing marks all line up in the proper manner, that DOES mean your timing belt alignment is good. That's exactly what those marks are for.