OT:stripped interior, how did you get the tar off cleanly?HELP!!!!
My cousin said that dry ice and a hammer will work the best, will try that....
So far, I've managed to scrape some off, but it's leaving redisue that won't come off....bug&tar remover and steel wool won't work for the residue..
HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
TIA
So far, I've managed to scrape some off, but it's leaving redisue that won't come off....bug&tar remover and steel wool won't work for the residue..
HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
TIA
waht about the tar that hasn't been attempted yet...
I wanna use my Snapon air scraper, but I don't wanna **** anything up
I wanna use my Snapon air scraper, but I don't wanna **** anything up
tried every method known to man.
Dry ice and a paint scraper works the best. For the stubborn residue, Goof Off or similar, and Simple Green for the final touch.
Dry ice and a paint scraper works the best. For the stubborn residue, Goof Off or similar, and Simple Green for the final touch.
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how long do you have to let the ice sit there? how much ICe did you use?
I have tar under the rear seats, rear floor, under front seat, and front floor
I have tar under the rear seats, rear floor, under front seat, and front floor
Hey,
You will need a industrial heat gun or a heat gun you can buy at the hobby store. The hair dyer is too weak. They sell the heat gun to wrap film for the model airplane. Go to Sears and buy you a scraper. It looks like a screwdriver with a scraper end. They do not come sharpen from the store. It needs to be sharpen.
It is crap work, but you will need to heat the area really good and than scrape away. After you have scraped all the tar off than use the 3M adhessive remover or any good cleaner with orange citrus acid. They will give you a very clean and prossional look. After the long hours of sweat and busting your *** it will be all worth while. Your car will look sharp
. A bonus is to do the seam sealer also.
I hope this info helps. Good luck,
Richard Wong,
NipponPower.com
You will need a industrial heat gun or a heat gun you can buy at the hobby store. The hair dyer is too weak. They sell the heat gun to wrap film for the model airplane. Go to Sears and buy you a scraper. It looks like a screwdriver with a scraper end. They do not come sharpen from the store. It needs to be sharpen.
It is crap work, but you will need to heat the area really good and than scrape away. After you have scraped all the tar off than use the 3M adhessive remover or any good cleaner with orange citrus acid. They will give you a very clean and prossional look. After the long hours of sweat and busting your *** it will be all worth while. Your car will look sharp
. A bonus is to do the seam sealer also.I hope this info helps. Good luck,
Richard Wong,
NipponPower.com
This is the easiest method possible. Dry Ice and air chisel. Total time = 1.5 hrs. 99% perfectly clean tar removal. Let the dry ice sit on there for about 15 minutes before you do the first section, then move it to the next section while you are removing the tar from the previous section. Here are some pics.
Good luck Paul.
Good luck Paul.
awesome!
i was gonna say.dry ice is the only way. that tar **** is heavy too.friend of mine did his trunk only.something like 15lbs of it..ONLY in the trunk
i was gonna say.dry ice is the only way. that tar **** is heavy too.friend of mine did his trunk only.something like 15lbs of it..ONLY in the trunk
Damn good pics...ya I used dry ice, but with a heat gun first... melt it off, scrape it...dry ice it...brake it...scrape it...clean it...you're done...good luck...
Did you think about cutting the floor and replacing with anodized sheet metal for those areas. It probably be nicer, lighter and faster, albeit more expensive, but hey its your car.....my .02 cents. Keep up the good work.
I simply crushed the block into quarter sized pieces, and scattered it over the entire area. Let it sit for 10-15 minutes, and you should hear it pop up and crack. I've been able to use a simple flat blade screwdriver on several occasions, and have done it in less than an hour total. I recommend picking up 45lbs of dry ice to do it easily, but you can get away with 30lbs. On a 2000 Civic hatch, we were able to remove 24lbs of useless crap.
if you have a meat packing plant nearby, they might help you. I was able to get mine from a place that actually sells it. It costs me a dollar a pound - money well spent IMHO.
thought about it, never tried though...only thing is the fumes would have to be vented somewhere, otherwise the water tank would explode
I recommend picking up 45lbs of dry ice to do it easily, but you can get away with 30lbs. On a 2000 Civic hatch, we were able to remove 24lbs of useless crap.
[Modified by Blown90hatcH, 8:40 AM 5/19/2002]
i dont even think my car has it. Did the 95 CX have sound deadning material? I know i dont have it under my rear seats but im not sure about the front seats.
i dont even think my car has it. Did the 95 CX have sound deadning material? I know i dont have it under my rear seats but im not sure about the front seats.
i dont even think my car has it. Did the 95 CX have sound deadning material? I know i dont have it under my rear seats but im not sure about the front seats.
Kenji posted awhile back about removing sound deadening material from an EG cx and he only shaved like 6 lbs.
Kenji posted awhile back about removing sound deadening material from an EG cx and he only shaved like 6 lbs.



if you want some good heat.