For those of you that have made a block off plate for the FITV my question is what did it look like. was it just a rectangular plate with two screw holes?

 

yep and honda bonded and bolted on. i made mine aluminum .

 

just a question but why would you block off your fitv? to remove the high idle at initial startup or what ? very curious!

 

Why would you want to heat the TB up to 190 degrees?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by greasemonkee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why would you want to heat the TB up to 190 degrees?</TD></TR></TABLE>

..and it also simplifies things. FITV are known to cause idle issues on a honda.

I disabled my EGR, Knock, FITV and IABs on my H22 and the engine runs great and is easier to tune.

I made a plate out of piece of ~1/16 aluminum and filled the ports with bond. By filling the ports you don't have to question your homemade plates seal.

 

I'm doing it because every time I adjust it (screw the white cap inside all the way in) it unscrews it self in like a week and starts to idle like **** again. Yeah i know that I could just buy a new one but this is cheaper and i still have my IACV hooked up so I should be ok.

2point2 how long did you let the hondabond dry (inside the ports) before you started your car?

 

Hondabond should be like gray permatex [silicone], dries in 1 hour, fully cures in 24 hours.

Its not really the ports you want to fill. You're basicly putting a plate between 2 holes, and sealing the edges of those holes. I'm thinking about trying a remote version, and maybe a plate with very tiny air holes.

 

ok i got what you are saying, i have another question is there a way to make your car not idle high when its cold? is it in the ecu and how would i change that or would there be a mechanical fix for that because that would be less gas used and less stress on the engine, the lower rpm i mean. thanks guys

 

OBD1 hondas that had the FITV, run the fast idle up to 2000+? This is believed to be for emissions purposes as the engine and catalyst comes up to operating temps quicker.

You don't want to idle a cold engine too low.


The block off plate will usually create oscillations over the cavity you just created - similar to blowing over the coke bottle - so you are forewarned.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coronadrinker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2point2 how long did you let the hondabond dry (inside the ports) before you started your car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

like 2 months

I'd wait a solid 24 hours.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coronadrinker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm doing it because every time I adjust it (screw the white cap inside all the way in) it unscrews it self in like a week and starts to idle like **** again. Yeah i know that I could just buy a new one but this is cheaper and i still have my IACV hooked up so I should be ok.

2point2 how long did you let the hondabond dry (inside the ports) before you started your car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's not supposed to be screwed all the way in for one. If its screwed all the way in, it's seated 100% of the time and allowing no bypass air.

Understand the system, then understand how to make it work properly.

 

It would be best to consider all possible scenarios that could be taking place within the system before claiming that there is only one way that it can work.

If the throttle plate isn't closing as well as others, then it could be pulling idle air. Maybe his ecu isn't stock, maybe the iac valve is leaking, maybe the fitv is leaking. However, should the Helms idle set procedure be executed and the and the rpm fails drop down to the specified value, then there is probably excessive leakage.

I have tuned two cars this winter that would only idle correctly with the bypass cut off completely. They had no leaks.

 

the wax valve in the fitv is prone to sticking and wearing out which causes the idle surge you hear so much in alot of hondas.

i usually just get a piece of gasket paper and sandwich it between the fitv and throttle body, no need to build a block off plate.

 

i thought that alot of honda tb's do not come with the FITV, so can't you just swap out tb's and reroute the coolant lines and rule out any chance of leaking?

 

instead of fabbing up a plate -- i've previously used a cut up soda can. a single layer worked well, but i'm going to switch it up to a pair, with some hondabond.