Ok I searched and found out a few things things. but i still have questions. I am going to get my TB bored at maxbore 65 tapered to 70, and was all so thinking about the changing the intake manifold but i was read that the ITR manifold was just as good as skunk2. So then i saw Import Builders port and polish manifolds great work but too much money for me. Then i saw the victor x intake manifold i thought it was pretty good. I want some more power and some thing that i can use later and not have to change. i plan to build my motor in 08 when i have more money. which manifold would you use for around 300? I'm going to port and polish my head, so i would like to get the manifold changed so please help. so could any give me some help?

I have 96 JDM ITR
Toda flywheel, Kaaz lsd, intake gasket, intake, exhaust, getting TB & head port and polish this week should be done monday, ordering a chp for the ecu friday kenji.

 

What intake gasket? What intake? What exhaust? What throttle body are you planning on using? The Edelbrock Victor-X Manifold is great, for top end, and overall a great piece. It's quite a bit cheaper than ImportBuilder's unit, so if price is an issue for you, I'd go with a used Victor-X, you can find them pretty cheap used.

Also, you can't just "order a chip" for a modified engine, you need to find a tuner to tune for your specific setup... Otherwise you'll probably end up losing power/efficiency. Just dish out the money for a tuning setup.

 

hondata gasket, short ram intake, stock header, 2.5 pipping all the way out muffler in the rear forgot what kind. stock ITR TB bored 65 to 70, chipped ecu is just for a base map, to lower my vtec a bit and changing the timing a bit. but yeah i know i need to go to a tuner. what goods for mid - high power.


Modified by gato5254 at 5:23 PM 1/31/2007

 

What short ram intake? Is it 3"?

And what's the point of a basemap, if you have a stock ECU? I'd just leave the stock ECU in, until you can get a good fuel management in.

Hondata, AEM EMS, etc. Or go with some free ware, CROME, Uberdata, etc. But when it comes down to it, find a local tuner, and go with whatever system they're comfortable with.

 

1.5" intake got for free from friend, ecu is to get rid of my secondary o2 sensor, because i throw that cel. so your telling thats it's a waste to get a Kenji or Phearable chipped ecu. i know i need more fuel. i going to upgrade but in steps, i don't drive that car every week. but i was thinking about AEM fuel rail and FPR maybe some injectors. i was waiting on injectors until i went to tune so they could tell me what kind and size injectors to get.

 

1.5" intake? Woah, WAAAAAAY small, stock intake system would yield better whp results than a 1.5" SRI, get rid of that as soon as possible.

You don't have to chip your ECU to keep from throwing a secondary oxygen sensor code, here's what you do:

Go to the auto parts store (Not sure what they have in BC, AutoZone, Advance Autoparts, Napa, anywhere will have them), buy a pack of Spark Plug Anti-Fowlers, they come two to a pack. Take the first one out, expand the existing hole to 1/2" (Take a 1/2 drill bit, and drill through the existing hole, pretty basic), then screw the other anti-fowler (Leave this one UNTOUCHED, the stock sized hole is perfect) into that one (Behind it), then screw your oxygen sensor into that, and screw that entire assembly into your secondary bung... Voila, no CEL. Works great for me.

How do you know you need more fuel? Do you have a wideband?

AEM fuel rail = Blinging waste of money on an otherwise stock engine
AEM FPR = Blinging waste of money on an otherwise stock engine
Bigger Injectors = HUGE waste of money on an otherwise stock engine

Your stock 240cc injectors are fine on your stock engine. The best thing to do at this point, GET A BETTER INTAKE (Even stock will do better than a 1.5" SRI), get a nice header of somekind (TODA, Spoon, Mugen, JUN, SMS-P, RMF, something higher quality), put the stock ECU back in, and just enjoy it.

For the money you'd spend on an intake manifold like the Victor-X, you might as well just save up for a while longer, and get a used JUN valvetrain with JUN-III cams for $1,100-$1,500, and THEN worry about getting a tune.

 

Absolutely agreed. and that 1.5" intake i hope is a type-o for 2.5 or something, cuz that is crazy small.

 

GO-FIGHT-KILL
its nice to see people still like to help

 

well the pipe is about1.5 or more maybe from the tip of the filter to intake manifold might be 2.4 or some but it rest where the stock air box use to be. Ok but could you tell what color wires are the ones for the secondary oxygen sensor because i have that sensor around the house but think i cut that plug because i don't see and plugs loose i'm using a 97 ex harness.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Yaz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">GO-FIGHT-KILL
its nice to see people still like to help</TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha, I try.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gato5254 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well the pipe is about1.5 or more maybe from the tip of the filter to intake manifold might be 2.4 or some but it rest where the stock air box use to be. Ok but could you tell what color wires are the ones for the secondary oxygen sensor because i have that sensor around the house but think i cut that plug because i don't see and plugs loose i'm using a 97 ex harness.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That sounds weird, I'd still put a different intake system on there... Do you have the stock box and arm still?

97 EX harness would still have the wires for a secondary. I can't remember the colors of the wires, but both oxygen sensors are 4-wire. I'd definately put the secondary back in there, and just do the little trick I posted above, works great.

I'll post pictures of what I have for my secondary tomorrow, and I'll see what wires are there as well.

 

On a 1.8L, save for the Import Builders IM. The JG will make great power past 8000rpm, but you will hardly notice a difference below that.

I know this will sound very parent-like, but if you're pushing pennies to the point that a $500 intake manifold is too much, you shouldn't be modifying your car.

Secondly, don't touch your cylinder head.

You really should invest your money into good parts that work well together. One of the best combinations for an ITR is; IB manifold, DTR/SSR B-unit header (or similar ie: HyTech, SMSP...etc), good 2.5" exhaust, and most importantly, a good tune by an experienced tuner.

 

Import Builders IM is really good quality.

I just got one a couple of months ago

http://www.flickr.com/photos/47305622@N00/321914397/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/47305622@N00/321914398/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/47305622@N00/321914413/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/47305622@N00/321914409/
Considering you get a brand new IM with the price (no core exchange - I'd say they are worth it) - and it fixes a major bottleneck in the stock setup

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'll post pictures of what I have for my secondary tomorrow, and I'll see what wires are there as well. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ok i did want to wire that second o2 up.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On a 1.8L, save for the Import Builders IM. The JG will make great power past 8000rpm, but you will hardly notice a difference below that.

I know this will sound very parent-like, but if you're pushing pennies to the point that a $500 intake manifold is too much, you shouldn't be modifying your car.

Secondly, don't touch your cylinder head.

You really should invest your money into good parts that work well together. One of the best combinations for an ITR is; IB manifold, DTR/SSR B-unit header (or similar ie: HyTech, SMSP...etc), good 2.5" exhaust, and most importantly, a good tune by an experienced tuner. </TD></TR></TABLE>


I'm not pushing pennies, but is import builders ported ITR Manifold better that others for that price. i mean i'm going in steps, first i did my engine swap, then i up graded my brakes SI 2000 all round, with bembo disks, hawks pads and SS lines, extended wheel studs, si front sway bar, ITR rear sway, put 06 SI seats, new pump, i bought other littles parts but damn i mean i'm not going to just buy the best part for every or else i would have gotten a car from spoon, mugen, top fuel or others. I just want parts that are good for 350-450hp when i'm done with my car. i want to turbo it one day change parts on the inside of the block.

 

... So wait, I'm confused. What car do you have?

And yes, the ImportBuilders Type-R Intake Manifold IS worth the money.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gato5254 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just want parts that are good for 350-450hp when i'm done with my car. i want to turbo it one day change parts on the inside of the block. </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you are planning to go turbo, don't spend any money on your intake system or exhaust system. Once you go turbo, all that is wasted effort, with the exception of maybe a catback system, but only if you go 3" now.