Well ****, I was on the dyno for like 20 minutes just trying to figure out what was going on with my boost controller. I could not hold boost for the life of me. It would go to 12.5lbs then drop down to 11psi, and just be incosistant. I finally got the GM boost solenoid to hold a decent PSI level. I got it to hold about 12.5psi. I didn't even get a chance to play with timing again. I got to work on the fuel a lil bit, but I still have much tuning to do. But atleast I have a baseline and have a idea where the new setup is.

So here is the dyno plot. The OEM dizzy with 8 plugs actually worked out pretty well. I think the 8 plug is actually a lil too cold. I was having major issues with the MSD dizzy, but the OEM one did just fine and that is the reason I was able to hit the dyno today. Plus a friend of mine was paying for my 1 hour session which was nice of him. I have also included the log, but I think boost is still fluctuating a tiny bit. The wideband o2 they had was actually reading a full point leaner that what my AEM EMS was getting. I was going by my logs, and I didn't even see the dip in the fuel curve between 6,000-7,000rpms. If you look at the log it's pretty damn flat, and RICH. Damn, I didn't even see the dip in my log, and if I knew that I would have fixed that area, cause I think that dip would have been gone. So if I was tuning off my wideband that tailpipe o2 sensor would be showing like 13.0 AF if I tuned for 12.0 AF on using my AEM EMS software and logger.

As always feel free to post your thoughts, thank you again to everyone on the forum that has helped me. Jdogg, especially because I would have never gotten to learn the AEM EMS if it wasn't for his help.




I was just looking at the dyno charts over again. Those dips are probably due to the fact I was not able to tune the AF at all on the dyno since I had issues with the boost controller.
My question is though, home come I have seen other dyno charts that have a AF like mine, with dips in it, but I really don't see it affect the curve at all????




Modified by BodyKits NW at 9:58 PM 3/31/2007

 

Nice output. Could you elaborate on what problems you were having with the GM boost solenoid, and how you went about figuring it out & fixing the isse? I'm assuming you were using the GM part number that Hondata lists on their website correct?

EDIT: Just read the addition about the O2 reading lean. That's weird because the wideband hardwired to my ecu reads about 1 point leaner than the O2 at the dyno. My friend had the same thing happen to him at the same dyno, and then he went to a different dyno....and it happened again. This definitely makes me question how much you can actually trust a WB, because how do you know which one to believe?

My WB: DynoJet Wideband Commander
Friends: Innovate
Dyno 1: LSU4, on a DynoJet
Dyno 2: Not sure, on a Mustang dyno


Modified by Dunc at 2:47 AM 1/31/2007

 

whats the dip at 6500?

and, assuming u have the gain and everything setup correctly, i would go off the ems's o2

 

Well I am assuming the dip is from the Air Fuel. Right in that area the dip occurs in the same area as the Air Fuel. So I need to fix that area, but **** it didn't show up on my Logger. As you can see from my log, it pretty damn FLAT. But the dynojet 02 sensor showed that there was a dip there which I didn't notice till after the session was done. I added some timing in that area to see if that would fix the dip, but that didn't change it at all. So I hope it's just a lil touch up in the Air Fuel and get that sucker leaned out from 10.81 to something a lil more reasonable and closer to 12.0 or whatever the motor wants.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dunc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice output. Could you elaborate on what problems you were having with the GM boost solenoid, and how you went about figuring it out & fixing the isse? I'm assuming you were using the GM part number that Hondata lists on their website correct?

EDIT: Just read the addition about the O2 reading lean. That's weird because the wideband hardwired to my ecu reads about 1 point leaner than the O2 at the dyno. My friend had the same thing happen to him at the same dyno, and then he went to a different dyno....and it happened again. This definitely makes me question how much you can actually trust a WB, because how do you know which one to believe?

My WB: DynoJet Wideband Commander
Friends: Innovate
Dyno 1: LSU4, on a DynoJet
Dyno 2: Not sure, on a Mustang dyno</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well I got a new setup with a much larger wastegate spring. I got the 13psi spring, but I could not get it to hold 13psi. So I cut the spring down and slapped the GM boost solenoid on and it started to regulate the boost. I usually only use the "BOOST WASTEGATE DUTY MAP". But I chose to use the VSS 'Boost Target Table" which Jdogg taught me to use awhile ago. But **** the "Boost Target Comp Table" was giving me ****, and I had to keep on tweaking it till I got it to hold something. I don't even think it's 100 percent yet, but I will tune it out when I get a chance. A friend of mine is going to let me use his 10psi spring so I can see if I can regulate lower boost levels. This thing is also spoolin way later on the dyno than it was when I was street tuning it.

 

Here is a log of my first run where I was having boost issues and it was clearly showing on the dyno graph. As you can see it shows 12.23, but before that it was at 13.71 which is a huge fluctuation. So I got it down pretty good to where it holds a pretty consistant load like shown in the above log.

 

Also that dip seems to be apparent on my old dyno too, but not as bad. I tried to add some timing in that area, but it didn't really help that much. I'm hoping that the powerband will be a lil better or alteast clean up a bit so that it wasn't a waste of time going from my GT35E to the GT35R. I'm making more power, but my torque is not as good as before.

 

nice #'s andy. I dynoed my truck 306hp 320ftlbs @15psi

 

your car has always made kick *** power on low boost..

but the gm soleniod is a piece of ****, the aem/perrin/greddy/apexi bc soleiond works MUCH MUCH better. make sure you use the wg error and feedback options, if you get the feedback table close to right the target comp table only has to be close and it will hold very steady boost. if you get the error control table too agressive you will have massive fluctuations.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your car has always made kick *** power on low boost..

but the gm soleniod is a piece of ****, the aem/perrin/greddy/apexi bc soleiond works MUCH MUCH better. make sure you use the wg error and feedback options, if you get the feedback table close to right the target comp table only has to be close and it will hold very steady boost. if you get the error control table too agressive you will have massive fluctuations. </TD></TR></TABLE>

like he said...Im using the gm solenoid with a 6.5psi spring and I can hold 18psi steady

 

the gm soleniods are hit or miss like all other gm sensors. i prefer not to use them first off b/c if something fails they default to max boost and 2nd for the reasons i stated above. dont get me wrong, they can and do work in alot of situations, i have used them before with good success, but 1/2 the time we end up swapping em out for a better soleniod. and you can steel lines for all the lines going to the wg and soleniod w/one of the others... that ***** pimp and you never have to worry about ti coming apart.

 

that dip may be related to the wastegate opening....just a thought

 

That could be, but boost is steady in that area so that's all that should matter right?

If I fix that dip and lean out the entire map I should get a nicer powerband as well as make more power.

 

change in manifold pressure will cause a change in turbine/compressor speed....not saying that thats it but its a possible contributor

 

what is your setup. seems like you have a really nice one for the power made at low boost levels.

 

A built turbo ITR motor with a GT35r.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your car has always made kick *** power on low boost..

but the gm soleniod is a piece of ****, the aem/perrin/greddy/apexi bc soleiond works MUCH MUCH better. make sure you use the wg error and feedback options, if you get the feedback table close to right the target comp table only has to be close and it will hold very steady boost. if you get the error control table too agressive you will have massive fluctuations. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thank you. You've been a great help and I only got this far with the AEM EMS with your help. Thank you very much for taking the time to help me out with that.

 

Great numbers straight off a street tune. Like JDogg said. The GM solenoids are hit or miss. I have had them act crazy. I prefer to use VSS for boost. Seem to be able to control boost better with the GM solenoid. Did you get a chance to do any tuning with the ignition timing?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99B16Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">change in manifold pressure will cause a change in turbine/compressor speed....not saying that thats it but its a possible contributor</TD></TR></TABLE>

So if that is the case, then how do you go about fixing that LOL.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alpha &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Great numbers straight off a street tune. Like JDogg said. The GM solenoids are hit or miss. I have had them act crazy. I prefer to use VSS for boost. Seem to be able to control boost better with the GM solenoid. Did you get a chance to do any tuning with the ignition timing?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did not get a chance to tune the ignition timing yet. I didn't even really get a chance to tune the AF. As you can see in the log I was at 10.98 which is really really rich on the dyno. My street tune was about 11.8-12.00, but as usual it totally richens up on the dyno. I usually tune it to what it likes which is much leaner than 10.98, then when I get off the dyno I add fuel to get back to the desired AF that made me the power on the dyno. When I tune on the dyno to what it likes and get back on the street I am usually a point leaner that I have to add fuel back into my map. Which is fine since I know what AF is giving me the best reliability as well as power.

The thing is, I didn't get to tune past 6k on the street. I live in the city, and not in the boonies anymore and getting a good SAFE pull is really not possible where I am at. I use to have my own private road I could tune on which was great. I would get on the dyno and could do a pull to redline right off the bat. This time I had to tune each rpm range after 6k. This is after spending 20 or so minutes trying to get the GM calibrated correctly to hold something, I mean anything. I didn't really care, as long as I made more than 388whp@10.5psi like previously I would be happy. So right of the bat I not only made more power than before, but there is more room for power at this boost level. I honestly think I can make 430+ after leaning out the AF. Last time I was on the dyno when I was at 10.98 and leaned it out to what it wants I yielded more than 15whp. So I don't think 430 will be a problem. My friend Stefan "onefstek" hooked me up with a small red spring which will be much better than this cut down 13psi spring I am using.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ttaco &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice #'s andy. I dynoed my truck 306hp 320ftlbs @15psi</TD></TR></TABLE>

Man, give me a update what is going on with your bad boy. I lost your number bro, hit me up via PM. Let's catch up. Hope all is well, still selling cars?

 

I was just looking at the dyno charts over again. Those dips are probably due to the fact I was not able to tune the AF at all on the dyno since I had issues with the boost controller.

My question is though, home come I have seen other dyno charts that have a AF like mine, with dips in it, but I really don't see it affect the curve at all?

 

Wow, very nice numbers Andy. I feel your pain about the GM solenoid (Jdogg can attest to this..... ). I am thinking that maybe I just got a bad one. I might just get another one or like Jdogg said get a different solenoid. I do really like the idea of ss hardline instead of all that viton hose I have runnin' around my bay. I already did this with my oil feed line (see link).

https://honda-tech.com/zero...ge=65


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BodyKits NW &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thank you. You've been a great help and I only got this far with the AEM EMS with your help. Thank you very much for taking the time to help me out with that. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll second that one!! He was nice enough to spend some time on the phone with me one day as well tryin to explain the AEM boost control to my dumba$$!!! Mosdef a really cool cat.

 

Thanks bro, hopefully I can get those dips out of there and get a good hour of tuning done. Well before I moved to Seattle, I lived in a small town with many lilttle private rodes. So I could basically tune WOT all the way to redline with no issues. Living in Seattle street tuning was a real bitch. So I was not able to tune the AF and boost solenoid like I typically do before I rent the dyno for an hour. But ****, I didn't realize there was dips like that in it, even on the logs I had gotten from the AEM EMS. Ohh well, I live in the Philippines now, but I am heading back to finish up my car. I'm going to ditch the GM solenoid, and get this solenoid
310-12VDC


from this place. http://airinc.thomasnet.com/vi...ard=1

So hopefully that solenoid will work much better.

You know the AEM EMS is not that hard to understand, once JDOGG explained it to me I was like UHH DUH t myself, I just made it way harder on myself than it really was.

 

haha I don't know where the hardline thing came from LOL, but that's pretty clean bro. I wish I had the tools to make something like that.