I am going to be putting together a kit for either a b16 or a b18c1.. (havent decided yet based on the $$$ ) Aside from the actual turbo parts, what are the (see title) best mods for my money to make more power ? I am thinking along the lines of a new intake manifold, ctr cams, etc... I want to do this right the first time and be entirely satisfied upon completion. This will not be a budget build. I'm looking for a reliable daily driver that will be putting down in the area of 350 whp. ( If you didn't get my point I'm talking aside from fuel, turbo, ecu, and tuning devices.)

 

With a stock motor the limit isn't going to be any of the things you mentioned so if you want more power you should just turn up the boost. If you had a built motor then you could begin to think about other mods.

 

BEST MOD FOR THE BUCK WAS HONDATA S300

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PnoyEj6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BEST MOD FOR THE BUCK WAS HONDATA S300</TD></TR></TABLE>

and maybe sleeves if you intend to turn the boost up and have the motor last.

Don't get me wrong, I have 400whp and stock sleeves rocking it just fine for quite some time, but I do fear the inevitable day..........

 

ahh damnit. Sorry guys I should have elaborated.. I am planning new rods and pistons. I guess the question in short should have been should I just crank the boost after it has been built or would it be safer yet slightly more expensive to add different cams and mani. to reach my hp goal?? Understand what I'm saying? Like for instance saying with x number of psi i can hit 350 whp... but if i use cams and a different manifold etc... i will be spending some more $$$ but I can hit 350 whp with less boost and stress on the the entire build..

 

If your only planning on 350 whp, a stock GSR can get you there, with just a turbo kit.

Save your pennies. No real need for anthing else like throttle body etc.

A better intake mani couldn't hurt since the dual butterfly **** is crap.

Mostly focus on putting the power the ground. Slicks, LSD, traction bars, seat time practicing.

 

Most people buy 'supporting mods' w/o really having a good idea of their goals. Very few items will increase both low, mid, and top end power. Given the fact most people get a turbo that will support 2x the HP than what their goal is, most mods will just shift your powerband up farther. In other words, less area under the curve.

All you need to do is go look at some 'factory turbo' car forums. There's mx6/probes with mostly stock parts hitting full boost by 3k, shooting well past 300lb/ft and still ending up with ~400whp near redline. Thats done by properly sizing your turbo. The problem with the Honda community is that everyone wants to buy parts first, size the turbo for 'future power goals', then turn the boost up way later, if ever at all.

As for the comment on the IAB's, do you have data saying they're better for a street car? I know you can slap on most any fixed-length runner manifold and make more peak HP, but the IAB's are usually the best for low/midrange power. All the data I've seen supports that.

 

my best mod was the dyno tune. made a good 30+ hp and tq over when i drove into the dyno and it didnt cost too much since i did it myself

 

Best bolt-on I ever did on my LS was a B16 tranny.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stellarhark &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ahh damnit. Sorry guys I should have elaborated.. I am planning new rods and pistons. I guess the question in short should have been should I just crank the boost after it has been built or would it be safer yet slightly more expensive to add different cams and mani. to reach my hp goal?? Understand what I'm saying? Like for instance saying with x number of psi i can hit 350 whp... but if i use cams and a different manifold etc... i will be spending some more $$$ but I can hit 350 whp with less boost and stress on the the entire build.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Boost levels have nothing to do with stress placed on your motor. Torque/Horsepower and RPM's are what dictate stress placed on the parts of your motor. CTR cams and a VictorX intake will make a buttload more midrange/top end power, but at 350 WHP your motor is still going to be seeing as much stress as it would at any other boost level, provided it's not detonating.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Boost levels have nothing to do with stress placed on your motor. Torque/Horsepower and RPM's are what dictate stress placed on the parts of your motor. CTR cams and a VictorX intake will make a buttload more midrange/top end power, but at 350 WHP your motor is still going to be seeing as much stress as it would at any other boost level, provided it's not detonating.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly. Power is power whether it comes from a smaller turbo running 20 psi or a larger one running 10. The engine will still be seeing the same cylinder pressure regardless. Just because your letting the engine breathe by increasing VE, not needing as much boost to make the same power, it's still the same "stress" on the engine. 350whp is still 350whp, no matter how you get there.

 

theres big gains in replacing your compleate exhaust system. the combination of a good eq-length main, w/ 3" downpipe and exhaust