In about a week or so i am planing on changing my oil tranny fluid and brake fluid. i was wonder what brands would you guys sugest for oil tranny fluid and brake fluid. I am looking for higher performance fluids.

Also i am having problems with my linkage and my shifter. Every time i try and put it into 2nd gear at any speed over 30 it makes some poping noise and i realy have to slam it in or it wont go . Jokes aside it is geting realy bad and is now starting to pop out of gear. This only happens with 2nd and 1st gear. What is it and can i fix it my self.

I have taken every one advice and started to realy look hard for a k20 swap. Well i found one at a shop nere me for 4k. It comes with motor, tranny and everything else exept axles. Is this a good price? also i looked for mounts online and i dident find any mounts at hasports.com for my 2005 civic lx.

Last and finnal question what would be a good set of light weight rims and decent street tires to get. Lower the price the better. I have been looking around at craigs list and i dont see very much for civics on there (CO springs.)

 

I don't think you need the axels for kswap. just engine/tranny/clutch lines/connections. mounts are easy to fabricate. The best oil tranny fuild and brake fluid in my opinion is the kind the dealer gives you when you get a dealer service, which is free for me since i purchased the service plan.

good set of lightweight rims and tires would be rays volk te-37's with some Pirelli P6's.

 

Brake fluid, either OEM or Motul

For Engine oil i use castrol 5w-20

I use whatever the OEM stuff is in the tranny.

the linkage sounds more like a syncro problem, than a fluid problem so u might be looking at replacing those ( expensive)

4k for a k20a2 is decent, better deals can be had tho. You get a lot more tho through hmotorsonline.com, as it comes with axels.

u can also try to get the cheaper k20a3, or k24a1/2/4, and save a bit of $$ there, but they also do not have NEARLY as good a tranny, and power as a k20a2. But k20a3's can be found CHEAP!!!

About the rims, there are a lot of cheap brands that make lightweight wheels ( IE. Rota) but i wouldnt buy them, they are overplayed, made cheaply, and rip off great manufactor's like SSR, GAB, Advan and many others, sending them out of business.

What size are u looking for? are u looking to buy new or used? how much $$ do u have to spend?

Rims are just like anything else, if u want the best, u gotta spend more. If u live in a area with a TON of potholes, sometimes the only chance to get a lightweight strong wheel is to buy a forged wheel, as it has more strength than a cast, but if there are no potholes in ur area, then maybe u can get away with a ligher cast wheel.

a great place to check out wheel weights is http://www.wheelweights.net they have a TONNNNN of wheels, construction type, and weight. U can probably just search through their until u find a style, price, and weight u like.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ley &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think you need the axels for kswap. just engine/tranny/clutch lines/connections. mounts are easy to fabricate. The best oil tranny fuild and brake fluid in my opinion is the kind the dealer gives you when you get a dealer service, which is free for me since i purchased the service plan.

good set of lightweight rims and tires would be rays volk te-37's with some Pirelli P6's. </TD></TR></TABLE>

So many things wrong with this post i dont know where to start.

#1 Yes u do need k20 axels, if u want to stay 4 lug then get 02-03 ep3 axels, if u want 5 lug then use RSX axels, and then u need to get an RSX/ 04-05 ep3 rear disc conversion.

#2 Making ur own mounts is NOOOOTTTTT easy, it is VERY difficult unless u do welding/fabrication for a living. I HIGHLY reccommend not doing this. Go with Hasport mounts, they have been proven to be the best for YEARS

3# The best oil/tranny fluid is not the dealer's stuff... But everyone has a different style. Motul is by far the top brake fluid around, without a doubt. Everyone has different taste in engine oil, i myself use castrol, just because ive used it for years and its done its job. Tranny oil im not to familiar with, so i just leave in what i know works, OEM stuff.

#4 TE-37's are a great wheel, but there is no way u can say they are the best. For the price, there are many wheels in the same category, then it just comes down to looks. And imo TE-37's are getting a little overplayed now, do to everyone using lame rota grids.

heres a list of the top few choices ( i took some out do to their lack of availability) from 15-17" from wheelweights.net

15x7
1) Volk CE-28N = 9.1 lbs
2) SSR Type C ( Competition) = 9.2 lbs
3) Volk Te-37 = 9.2 lbs
4) Racing hart Cp035-R = 9.4 lbs
5) Regamaster = 9.6 lbs
6) Enkei RPF-1 = 9.8 lbs

16x7
1) Racing hart Cp035-R = 10.8 lbs
2) Mugen Mf10 = 11 lbs
3) SSR Type C = 11 lbs
4) Volk TE-37 = 11.1 lbs
5) Buddy Club QF = 11.2 lbs
6) Volk CE-28N/Spoon Sw388/Regamaster = 11.9 lbs

17x7
1)Veloz PG-Rev 10 = 11.5 lbs &lt;--- WOW! never thought a Veloz would be so light
2)Weds Sport TC-005 = 13.8 lbs
3) Kose K1 TS= 14.1
4) Regamaster Evo= 15.0 lbs

These are probably the most expensive wheels around as well, So u can find heavier, cheaper wheels, but these are the cream of the crop.

 

Thanks for the input guys. I will be changing my oil at the least on the 4th. As far as my linkage goes... i am going to take it into the dealership soon as i have a warenty on it. As far as getin the cheaper k20a3 i dont think i would like the results and then would be unhappy with my car. I a have heard on this forum of a k20a2 with k24 heads? is that how it goes? what is the benifit of such a fankinstein engine and are they more expensive?

 

I wouldnt get a Ksway until ur warrenty is up, as there is no use to throw away something that can save u so much $$.

as for ur frankenstein question, its actually the other way around.

K24a1/3/4 block with k20a2 head.

the heads sort of go like this k20a3=k24a1/3/4&lt;k24a2&lt;k20a2&lt;k20a

The k20a2 is the best ivtec head ( without spending a lot of $$ on the k20a head) and matching it to the larger displacement k24 block.

I believe hondaluver got 231 whp out of his k24 block /k20a2 head setup, with minimal mods.

Its pretty much the B20/Vtec of the kseries world.