1 being easy, 10 being hard.

i know you basically unplug the o2 plug and o2 sensor from the header . unbolt every nut. remove old header. take o2 sensor and pop it in new header. stick new header in car. bolt everything back on, and plug in the o2 sensor.

the thing is, the o2 sensor. you need special tools for it. like an o2 socket and an air gun?

i also heard, some kind of screws can be broken off, if not done right. im confused.

 

i cant give you a number but its very easy.

 

really easy ... a 1

 

well the hardest part would be seized bolts holding the header to teh cat. you can snap them off. i would get a good penatrating oil ( not wd-40) and spray them a few times before you do the header change. pneumatic tools would make the job easier but are not nessesary. you dont need a special tool for the o2 sensor just a wrench.

 

pb blaster works very well for rusted and siezed bolts

 

exhaust work in general can get a little tricky, but on a 4cyl. honda its pretty simple. It might be easier for you to remove and install the sensor when you have the whole part removed. I wouldnt use an impact on a o2 sensor. Soak it with penatrant oil and heat it up if needed. Some hardware is better to break off with an impact and be replaced, of coarse not the manifold flange to cyl head hardware.

 

its never good to break stuff because you have to fix it later...

 

Also make sure you use anti-seize on hardware install and check for a good seal at the gaskets when tightened. Clean off the rusty crud at the flange ends where the gaskets seat.

 

Takes 15 minutes unless something is seized.

Remove the O2 sensor when it's out of the car - just need a wrench.

People mentioned spraying it with PB blaster or penetrating oil b4 removing it - that's a good safety so **** don't start fallin off on ya.

It's real easy though.

If it concerns you that much take it to a muffler shop. You have any idea how many rice burners with stock D16s and D15s your typical muffler shop puts on? I'm sure it'll be very cheap, and very fast. They also have the right tools (which isn't saying much, but air > manual).

 

its really easy the only problem you might run into is if your bolts are all rusty or if you strip them or something

 

0

 

depending on how the bolts to the cat are... i give it a 2 at most! took me all of 30mins w/ seized bolts!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spock_rocker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">depending on how the bolts to the cat are... i give it a 2 at most! took me all of 30mins w/ seized bolts! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Impact + PB blaster ftw

 

0.1

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbociviccoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its never good to break stuff because you have to fix it later... </TD></TR></TABLE> To be more specific, If you dealing with rusty crusty nuts&bolts , its faster to break the head of a bolt off and tap the rest out of the other end with a punch. The type of hardware I was refering to, is the type that should def. be replaced anyway.

 

so the nuts that are connecting the head are the easy to remove? its just the nuts near the cat that are hard to remove right?

i went to this shop and i've seen this guy use a torch to heat up the nut. then he removed it. i can use a torch and heat the sucker up right?

 

btw, to the people that has went to a muffler shop, whats the cheapest quote you have gotten? i got quoted almost 100. is that right? or are they trying to rip me off.

 

If you never done it before 10.

 

1

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pli &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">btw, to the people that has went to a muffler shop, whats the cheapest quote you have gotten? i got quoted almost 100. is that right? or are they trying to rip me off. </TD></TR></TABLE>

We took a friends car to a place here in town and they put his cat-back + a header on for $60. The shop owner is cool as hell though. He is old with health problems and still welds overhead from his wheelchair. Hardcore.

Header should be super easy to put on. I had two studs come out of the head because the nuts were seized on. Didn't take more than 30 min even with those problems though. DIY

 

Easily 1

Remove your heat shield, then go and unbolt all screws on your headers this might be a lil tough but can be done. Go down to bottom of car and unbolt the iother two bolts that lead to exahust,. use a Cresent Wrench for o2 sensor, slap on new one, installation is reverse or removal

 

1 = SUPER EASY 15min i installed my headers

 

The hardest part is removing any stubborn bolts, and just maneuvering the parts in the cramped space.

 

1-2

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nurvcom &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1 = SUPER EASY 15min i installed my headers</TD></TR></TABLE>

Groovy, how many headers did you install?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JShull &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

We took a friends car to a place here in town and they put his cat-back + a header on for $60. The shop owner is cool as hell though. He is old with health problems and still welds overhead from his wheelchair. Hardcore.

Header should be super easy to put on. I had two studs come out of the head because the nuts were seized on. Didn't take more than 30 min even with those problems though. DIY </TD></TR></TABLE>

That is INSANELY bad-***.


Yeah it's a 15 minute job - if nothing is seized. It depends on what parts you have at your disposal. Like I said before, air &gt; manual. $100 is way too much for a header installation. Somebody said 60 for that and a catback, sounds right, ur probably lookin at like 30-40 just for them to slap it on.