I plan on building a D16A6 w/ Eagle rods and CP Pistons. I planned on using ACL bearings and plastiguaging clearances. If they were all within spec, great. If not, then I'd buy whatever honda bearings I needed.

I just thought though, if I'm using aftermarket rods, are the clearances the same? should I just go by what is in my chilton's manual or is it different?

 

i always aim on the looser end but still within OEM specs. ive built several motors like this and none of them have had any issues

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99B16Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i always aim on the looser end but still within OEM specs. ive built several motors like this and none of them have had any issues</TD></TR></TABLE>

Aight. Cool.

 

every crank is different, every block is different and with rods, you never know how consistent the machining from the manufacturer is. Always measure and dont assume clearances.

Each motor, crank and rod combination will have different clearances and you just compensate it by using the right bearing for your build.

 

I had my d16z6 crank micropolished, and every ACL bearing was w/in OEM specs besides *one* main (2nd from pulley). They're supposed to be .0017 at most, mine was .0019. Everything else was just a little loose, but exactly what I was going for. I'm going with an OEM pair for that one main. I could probably used the ACL pair, seeing as how boosted motors usually run the rods looser than the OEM service limit. I'm also running a endyn-like modded oil pump/enlarged main gallery/smoothed oil filter entrence, so I'm likely to see more flow/psi than a stock motor would.

FYI ACL's and Eagles are meant to be like 'Green' size bearings, middle of the road. Its the most common bearing required by these motors.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by exospeedAMcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">every crank is different, every block is different and with rods, you never know how consistent the machining from the manufacturer is. Always measure and dont assume clearances.

Each motor, crank and rod combination will have different clearances and you just compensate it by using the right bearing for your build.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for your help. I know I was gonna get you build it, then justice racing engines, but now I'm like to hell with it, if I don't learn how to do it now, i never will.

 

glad your up for the challenge!

i'd 100% agree with everything they posted here.

i'd stay away from cheaper parts-store bearings...as several friends have had them literally flake apart (also could have been from tolerance issues though...they dont seem to believe in even plastigauge)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thanks for your help. I know I was gonna get you build it, then justice racing engines, but now I'm like to hell with it, if I don't learn how to do it now, i never will.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ya its cool man. Its cool you want to learn how to do it. I encourage that. Feel free to contact me if you ever have any questions. Of course I cant share certain build information, but I can help you in other things.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redzcstandardhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">.
i'd stay away from cheaper parts-store bearings...as several friends have had them literally flake apart (also could have been from tolerance issues though...they dont seem to believe in even plastigauge)
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Even we dont believe in Plastigauge. hehe. Not that it doesnt work, what I mean is that we have to even MORE precise than plastigauge. I would never assemble any of our engines with just plastigauge. People pay us good money to be Precise and be perfect in measurements so we have to use better measuring tools.