I have a 99 Accord Vtec 4 cyl. with 128k miles on it. The old engine was seeping oil into the cooling system and clogging up the radiator so we replaced the engine with one with about 41k miles on it. The new engine has no error codes on it and the car starts and idles but when it gets up to 2000 rpm it automatically restarts and the engine dies. Any ideas???

 

vacuum hoses.

 

checked and vacuum hoses are all fine, possibility that its the ecu? any more ideas? this is a dd so help is greatly appreciated!

 

limp mode?

 

I don't understand what you mean by limp mode. Please advise

 

whenever you gut a cat or switch to a test pipe, it does some weird crap to the ecu and it will go into limp mode, so it cant go over 2k rpm,

but to reset the ecu thing(well at least for clearing check engine lights), is super easy, ur actually not supposed to unhook the battery to do it, on th epassenger side fuse panel, there is a 7.5amp fuse called clock back up, pull it out for like 10seconds, and put it back in

see if that works, if not, id say to unhook the negative battery cable a minute or so (probably less), they only say not to do that cuz then the ecu has to relearn everything and will drive funny for like ~30minutes until it relearns about your car and how you drive

then if that dont work, welll, maybe one of these guys can help you out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 361accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but to reset the ecu thing(well at least for clearing check engine lights), is super easy, ur actually not supposed to unhook the battery to do it, on th epassenger side fuse panel, there is a 7.5amp fuse called clock back up, pull it out for like 10seconds, and put it back in</TD></TR></TABLE>Fusebox in the end of the dashboard, near the right-side door hinges. Pull out fuse #13 for a minute while the car is turned off. I think the only real difference with this vs. battery cables is this doesn't mess your clock or stereo memories. This DOES reset the ECU's learned information.

I'm guessing you get a check-engine lamp? Get the error code number & tell us...

 

Okay, tried the fuse and removing the negative battery but the car starts and idles but when you get up over 2000rpm, it will ramp down and back up a few times before it dies again. Going to try a salvage ECU next I guess. Any other ideas?????? I really appreciate the ideas everyone!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm guessing you get a check-engine lamp? Get the error code number & tell us...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

maybe the CEL light bulb is burnt out and you got codes anyways, do the paperclip trick, or get it scanned at autozone or something

 

You won't believe it but it has turned out to be switched wiring on the wiring harness. Two wires with the same plugs were switched on my new engine. Switched them back and I'm running great! Thanks again everyone for your input!!

 

Hmm.. Oil seeping into the cooling system?.. Did you ever find out why?.. Leaking headgasket??.. Or just a porous block.. Not sure if you already know this but.. There's a service bulletin about porous blocks. I've seen it in 4 cyl accords, elements and pilots so far... But if you bring it to a honda dealer and complain to american honda, they'll give you a new block..

But maybe you already knew something about that...

 

I tried to find a Service Bulletin on porous blocks and couldn't find anything. I've already bought a used engine for 1k and swapped it. We never did find anything on it. Everything pressurized okay and the head gasket was fine so we have to assume that it was porous. I think I'll hang on to the old engine for awhile just in case it turns out to be something else but it was quite baffling. Do you think I could get a new block for the engine I pulled out??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dwc7276 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You won't believe it but it has turned out to be switched wiring on the wiring harness. Two wires with the same plugs were switched on my new engine. Switched them back and I'm running great! Thanks again everyone for your input!!</TD></TR></TABLE>I've heard of that happening a few times before...

ECT sensor & VTEC oil pressure switch?

 

I can't remember which ones...I was just so glad to get my car back! My mechanic said it reminded him of the same issue he'd had with Fords.