no juice to fuel pump on dx to si swap
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,732
Likes: 3
From: Ft. Hood
Re: no juice to fuel pump on dx to si swap (lowandslow89)
Well, are you sure all your wires are in the right place? None of the wires you are supposed to move around deal with the Main Relay.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by http://fourthgenhatch.net/mpfi.html »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Swap and switch method (less cutting and soldering)
-Pins B10 and B12 are empty meaning there are no wires going into them as a general rule, however some models have a wire at B12. If you have wires there de-pin them and pull them out.
-De-pin C1 and C2 from their plug and plug C1 into B10s spot and C2 into B12s spot. By doing this you just saved yourself the need to solder any cut and solder at least 2 wires.
-Pins B2 and B11 have wires going into them but they are not used for anything on most cars (see Automatics and Exceptions above).
-Take the pin/wire from B2, de-pin it (this means pop it out of the plug). Now solder and heatshrink on a length of wire long enough to reach into the engine bay all the way to about 1ft after the fire wall. I say this because I like to add a plug right after the firewall later on so you can unplug your whole engine harness if you ever need to. You can do this in comfort outside of the car. Once you are done pin this wire into C1's now empty spot.
-Take the pin/wire from B11, de-pin it and solder and heatshrink a length of wire onto it just like you did for B2. Once you are done pin this into C2's now empty spot.
-Cut wires at A3 and A7, solder and heatshrink wires to the plug side of A3 and A7 and run them into the engine bay, make sure you mark them. Now you should have 4 wires running into your engine bay.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by http://fourthgenhatch.net/mpfi.html »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Swap and switch method (less cutting and soldering)
-Pins B10 and B12 are empty meaning there are no wires going into them as a general rule, however some models have a wire at B12. If you have wires there de-pin them and pull them out.
-De-pin C1 and C2 from their plug and plug C1 into B10s spot and C2 into B12s spot. By doing this you just saved yourself the need to solder any cut and solder at least 2 wires.
-Pins B2 and B11 have wires going into them but they are not used for anything on most cars (see Automatics and Exceptions above).
-Take the pin/wire from B2, de-pin it (this means pop it out of the plug). Now solder and heatshrink on a length of wire long enough to reach into the engine bay all the way to about 1ft after the fire wall. I say this because I like to add a plug right after the firewall later on so you can unplug your whole engine harness if you ever need to. You can do this in comfort outside of the car. Once you are done pin this wire into C1's now empty spot.
-Take the pin/wire from B11, de-pin it and solder and heatshrink a length of wire onto it just like you did for B2. Once you are done pin this into C2's now empty spot.
-Cut wires at A3 and A7, solder and heatshrink wires to the plug side of A3 and A7 and run them into the engine bay, make sure you mark them. Now you should have 4 wires running into your engine bay.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: riverport, nova scotia, canada
Re: no juice to fuel pump on dx to si swap (dr_latino999)
yah i made the mistake when i did mine i made a cx in to a si by swapin the hole wiring harness from head light to tail light but yah mixing and matching big junks of wiring i found never worked try gettin all the same wiring and if that dont work try ur main relay up under the dash on the drive side is a lil black boxs it shuould say something like (relay assy' main)
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importboi22
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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May 31, 2004 02:31 PM
