Alright, I'm a honda noob and my story is long so I'll just make it short. Today I discovered I had a CEL in my recently purchased Prelude. I took it to Autozone and pulled out these codes:


P0336
Crankshaft Position Sensor A.
CKT Range/Perf

P1362
Manufacurer Contrl.
Ignition System or Misfire

P1361
Manufacurer Contrl.
Ignition System or Misfire

P0325
Knock Sensor 1
Circuit Malfunction.
Bank 1 or 1 Sensor

Before I bought it, the Prelude was running on "limp mode", that is, it won't rev past 3000 rpm and had a CEL. I thought this was 'caused by maintenance problems, so I demanded the dealer to do a tune up on the car (oil, spark plugs, the whole nine yards) and to check what 'caused the CEL to come on.

They got rid of the CEL eventually, because the damn weasels at the dealership had taken off the CEL's bulb holder from the cluster. I noticed this because the CEL never came on when the car was in the "ON" position. I took out the instrument cluster and confirmed this.

Anyway, my questions are: are these faulty sensors causing the car to go under limp mode? And how long is the labor on this? My Prelude's engine is an H22A4.

Thanks!

 

This might help you out

http://www.hondaprelude.to/art....html

 

Thanks, I bookmarked that and I'll try it later.

Another question for the techs: Is it safe to drive the car on limp mode? (I'm driving it like a granny anyway).

PS: Prelude1897, I see you do retrofits. I also have experience in doing them and have done a couple in the past.

 

You didn't pay the dealership anything did you?

thats crazy

I would imagine that those codes would be enough to keep her in limp mode....

The knock sensor being bad could be the cause of the the two misfire codes, and I suppose the crank position sensor could just be a bad sensor or the wire got messed up. Not a ridiculously hard fix though....

 

Nope, I haven't paid them anything.

The car is still under a warranty and this must be fixed by them. What pisses me off the most is that rat of a mechanic they have that he thought he could fool me by taking off the CEL bulb. I could sue his *** for that.


EDIT: The two misfiring codes came from this morning by the way. I was making a fast U-turn and hitting the rev limiter at 3k. I had to shift in the middle of the turn into second, and gave it too much gas. The result wasn't too pretty. The car jerked for a while on the road and misfired a couple of times, then it stalled. I had to leave it off for about 20 mins before I could actually turn it on and drive it again.

 

I would make them get you a damn rental car until they can fix it.

Sounds to me like the crank position sensor is the main problem. Tell the mechanic that since he obviously has no idea what hes doing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El_Arsonista &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

PS: Prelude1897, I see you do retrofits. I also have experience in doing them and have done a couple in the past.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Post up some pics, cause I like to see other peoples work as well

 

I've made another nasty discovery in my 5th gen...

I looked around the area where the Service Connectors are:



And right above the blue and gray connectors, I found a bunch of poorly spliced cables. About 10-15 of them. They're not visible in the picture but as I mentioned, they're above the gray connector.

Are those cables related to the ECU? and could they be the ones 'causing the car to go under limp mode?

 

thsoe are probably the radio wires

Take that damn jumper out of that blue clip. That should only be in there to read out CELs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El_Arsonista &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What pisses me off the most is that rat of a mechanic they have that he thought he could fool me by taking off the CEL bulb. I could sue his *** for that. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thsoe are probably the radio wires

Take that damn jumper out of that blue clip. That should only be in there to read out CELs</TD></TR></TABLE>


The picture I posted was not of my car. I haven't tried that jumper method yet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El_Arsonista &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What pisses me off the most is that rat of a mechanic they have that he thought he could fool me by taking off the CEL bulb. I could sue his *** for that. </TD></TR></TABLE>



I would get that motherfocker fired. That's !

Good luck

 

Thats alot of bad problems for a new bought car. I would just return it and try my luck somewhere. With all those codes it sounds like the motor is done. A swap would ultimatly be best, but you dont even own the car yet. Unless it was like 1000 bucks, Id return it.

Lemon Law

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> With all those codes it sounds like the motor is done. </TD></TR></TABLE>

umm... yeah... ok.. so anytime we get more than two codes it's time for a new motor....

op: I'm not a lawyer, but what they did is illegal. If they aren't going to fix it for you for FREE, seek legal action. Period.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vlang29 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

umm... yeah... ok.. so anytime we get more than two codes it's time for a new motor....
.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No thats not what I mean. You seem pretty bent on the hammer and me. But for a new car for all these codes
P0336
Crankshaft Position Sensor A.
CKT Range/Perf

P1362
Manufacurer Contrl.
Ignition System or Misfire

P1361
Manufacurer Contrl.
Ignition System or Misfire

P0325
Knock Sensor 1
Circuit Malfunction.
Bank 1 or 1 Sensor

Odds are that its something interneal and more than just a sensor. But IDK Ive never actually delt with these codes, but I hope I never really have to. If its not the crank sensor that is wrong and the crank really is effed, and the knock sensor is busted and ignition is effed up, and misfire all in one...well for a new car out of a dealership, well....Id be like this

 

hey i'm sorry if i've been a hammering you to death, but i think you and everyone else should know when you're posting something that is completely BUNK. You DID tell him that <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> With all those codes it sounds like the motor is done. A swap would ultimatly be best</TD></TR></TABLE> so, what did you really mean by that?

The crank sensor is one of the most needed sensors to make everything run correctly. If the ECU doesn't know where the crank is, there's a pretty crappin' good chance there will be misfires. So chances are, that will take care of the two misfire codes.