Which Crower cams are the LS guys using here??
I am wanting to know if any of the LS guys here are using the Crower cams.
I am looking at the 62403's and the 62404's.
Just looking for some input for the ppl that are running the cams.
Input plz.
I am looking at the 62403's and the 62404's.
Just looking for some input for the ppl that are running the cams.
Input plz.
Dont bother w/ the 403's go for hte 404's if you want to make some serious power. THe 403's dont really start making power over stock high up into the powerband.
check this out
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=171619
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=171619
I've heard both the 403's and 404's are nice. Of course the 404's will give you a little more power, but it revs like a harley
Dont bother w/ the 403's go for hte 404's if you want to make some serious power. THe 403's dont really start making power over stock high up into the powerband.
I've heard mixed reviews on the 403's, a few people I know that had them wished they had gone with the 404's. Howerver, with 404's is recommended a p&p head and ECU work to get their full potential. They are more top end power than the 403's.
From the dyno on crower's site, it looks like hte 403 just takes some power from the low end and puts it up high, while the 404's actually make new power. I'm considering getting some 404's for mine, but I'm wondering about the "required" valve spring upgrade... Why exactly does the 404 need dual valve springs w/titanium retainers? Is that only needed if I plan on taking it past the stock redline? Or do the 404 cams just inflict more abuse on the valve springs?
If I were to get the 404's w/those springs, would it be safe to take it up to 8k? I know the pistons/rods we're designed/balanced to go that high and I don't have the oil squirters like a b18c does, but really... How badly would I be pushing my luck if I tore it up to 8k every so often?
If I were to get the 404's w/those springs, would it be safe to take it up to 8k? I know the pistons/rods we're designed/balanced to go that high and I don't have the oil squirters like a b18c does, but really... How badly would I be pushing my luck if I tore it up to 8k every so often?
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I have the 403's with full head job, valve/retainers, port/polish and ITR pistons. Work well, but I want the 404's now with all my work, anyone wanna trade??
hey if you are selling your 403 then let me know cause I am looking for a used set, I am serious, my e-mail is b18a1@Hotmail.com
im selling my 403's brand new. didnt want to use them because i decided to go turbo. and from the paper i got with the camshafts, it says the valve spring and retainer set is needed cause the stock springs arent strong enough to handle the 403's duration.
I plan on running Crower 62404 cams with the required 84162 spring/retainer set, racing P&P, Crower 97408 valve set, SRP 99238 pistons (10.5:1) - Though to stay in E prepared class I might have to stay with 9.2:1 CR pistons...
, and Crower A93828B Econo Billet rods. Will be using the Holley 950 Commander engine management system with MSD ignition system. Just need to check the engine and make sure the block is still in good shape first. Anybody see anything I should change in the above setup (mainly would the pistons CR be something to worry about- I do intend to get the cylinder jacket brace, but I can't remember who makes it, anybody know?) - I'm not trying to make a high revving screamer engine, just one that makes as much torque as possible with a stock block and stock rod lengths.
[Modified by Vracer111, 9:17 AM 5/17/2002]
, and Crower A93828B Econo Billet rods. Will be using the Holley 950 Commander engine management system with MSD ignition system. Just need to check the engine and make sure the block is still in good shape first. Anybody see anything I should change in the above setup (mainly would the pistons CR be something to worry about- I do intend to get the cylinder jacket brace, but I can't remember who makes it, anybody know?) - I'm not trying to make a high revving screamer engine, just one that makes as much torque as possible with a stock block and stock rod lengths.[Modified by Vracer111, 9:17 AM 5/17/2002]
I have the 403's with full head job, valve/retainers, port/polish and ITR pistons. Work well, but I want the 404's now with all my work, anyone wanna trade??
97Blackteg- what is your take on the 403's? have you dyno'ed your car?
Why exactly does the 404 need dual valve springs w/titanium retainers? Is that only needed if I plan on taking it past the stock redline? Or do the 404 cams just inflict more abuse on the valve springs?
If I were to get the 404's w/those springs, would it be safe to take it up to 8k? I know the pistons/rods we're designed/balanced to go that high and I don't have the oil squirters like a b18c does, but really... How badly would I be pushing my luck if I tore it up to 8k every so often?
Let me know if you have any questions,
Why exactly does the 404 need dual valve springs w/titanium retainers? Is that only needed if I plan on taking it past the stock redline? Or do the 404 cams just inflict more abuse on the valve springs?
I have the 404's, and the reason you'll need the valve springs and titanium retainers is because there is a ridiculous amount of lift compared to stock. Your stock springs will not be able to do the job for long even to 7200rpm. Titanium retainers are not REQUIRED, but they will reduce the amount of stress on all of your valvetrian and help reduce the chances of destroying your whole motor. Don't cut corners, get the retainers. Crower & crane know exactly what they're doing and listen to what they say! They also say P&P is required with both their stage 3 cams. The reason for this is related volumetric efficiency and that the engine will not theoretically be able to flow enough air with the amount of lift and duration that the 404's have compared to the size of your ports.
If I were to get the 404's w/those springs, would it be safe to take it up to 8k? I know the pistons/rods we're designed/balanced to go that high and I don't have the oil squirters like a b18c does, but really... How badly would I be pushing my luck if I tore it up to 8k every so often?
Its not a good idea to take it to 8k. Its a very bad idea to take it to 8k without the retainers. A lot of people do take it to 8k with all the valvetrain, but all experienced builders will tell you its not a good idea. PR4 rods are tiny and like you said things are not balanced to rev that high.
Let me know if you have any questions,
I have the 404's, and the reason you'll need the valve springs and titanium retainers is because there is a ridiculous amount of lift compared to stock. Your stock springs will not be able to do the job for long even to 7200rpm. Titanium retainers are not REQUIRED, but they will reduce the amount of stress on all of your valvetrian and help reduce the chances of destroying your whole motor. Don't cut corners, get the retainers. Crower & crane know exactly what they're doing and listen to what they say! They also say P&P is required with both their stage 3 cams. The reason for this is related volumetric efficiency and that the engine will not theoretically be able to flow enough air with the amount of lift and duration that the 404's have compared to the size of your ports.
If I were to get the 404's w/those springs, would it be safe to take it up to 8k? I know the pistons/rods we're designed/balanced to go that high and I don't have the oil squirters like a b18c does, but really... How badly would I be pushing my luck if I tore it up to 8k every so often?
Its not a good idea to take it to 8k. Its a very bad idea to take it to 8k without the retainers. A lot of people do take it to 8k with all the valvetrain, but all experienced builders will tell you its not a good idea. PR4 rods are tiny and like you said things are not balanced to rev that high.
Let me know if you have any questions,
like i stated above i am looking at either the 403's and 404's.
I am going to use my nitrous setup from my d16, so I have talked to say go 404's some say 403's.
I have a spare ls head that i going to send out for p/p, springs, ti retainers, ss valves (for nitrous usage). Either way I will upgrade the valvetrain for the cams.
I recommend Ferrea valves, they're just plain awesome.
The 404s are great cams. At one point I was scared they were gonna be too much, and once they were installed I have to admit I find they are pretty tame to what I had expected. Once I swapped my head & all, the car wouldn't start. I backed the timing from +2 -2 to -2 +2 thinking it had something to do with it. It didn't, but after it warmed up, It was sitting there idling and I was cursing at myself saying "uh are these 404's? It sounds nearly stock"... Anyway, I set it to +2 -2 and the car wouldn't start unless I gave it throttle, and even then it wouldn't idle until I tuned it. Overlap is everything!!!! Make sure you've got a FPR too, ECU's don't get along with these cams.
The 404s are great cams. At one point I was scared they were gonna be too much, and once they were installed I have to admit I find they are pretty tame to what I had expected. Once I swapped my head & all, the car wouldn't start. I backed the timing from +2 -2 to -2 +2 thinking it had something to do with it. It didn't, but after it warmed up, It was sitting there idling and I was cursing at myself saying "uh are these 404's? It sounds nearly stock"... Anyway, I set it to +2 -2 and the car wouldn't start unless I gave it throttle, and even then it wouldn't idle until I tuned it. Overlap is everything!!!! Make sure you've got a FPR too, ECU's don't get along with these cams.
Cool thanks,
I am looking to get a Apex'i AFC, AEM FPR, and ECU with rasied redline (8k for when motor is bottom is built) but going to keep the stock ignition/fuel maps just raised.
What is your setup Teg92?
[Modified by Midwestrider, 11:36 PM 5/17/2002]
I am looking to get a Apex'i AFC, AEM FPR, and ECU with rasied redline (8k for when motor is bottom is built) but going to keep the stock ignition/fuel maps just raised.
What is your setup Teg92?
[Modified by Midwestrider, 11:36 PM 5/17/2002]
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