on my ek i managed to break the head off of the bolt that holds the control arm and the trailing arm together it thread into the trailing arm on the oppostie side of the head. i dont want to get a new bushing or arms . any i deas?

 

Can you take a pic? Is this the front CA?

 

If it is seized enough to break the head off a M10+ bolt, there is no way an extractor is going to remove it...

Snap a pic or two anyways though

 

ok on one pic u can see where the head broke and whats left of the bolt on the other side dam i dont know how to post pics


Modified by raphael at 10:40 AM 1/23/2007

 

Cut the welded-on-nut off (which means you'll be cutting a piece of the bolt off too). Then use an air chisel/hammer to pound the bolt out. Now you just need another OEM bolt and a nut for it.

 

good luck try what he said ^ but when that happened to mine (on both sides) i went to a yard and bought new trailing arms with the control arms attached. about 100 bucks a pop.

 

you could drill it and then tap it!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by melted-butter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you could drill it and then tap it!</TD></TR></TABLE>

that would sound nice and easy, but the reality is it's not going to happen. do what i had to do.

OP, remove the whole strut and LCA from the trailing arm. cut replace the LCA, and if you have any spare struts (i had a spare from the junk yard) this will be the time to use them. then re-install everything. this is the easiest way possible.

GOOD LUCK!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by melted-butter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you could drill it and then tap it!</TD></TR></TABLE>


THERE IS NO WAY IN HELLL THAT THE BOLT IS GOING OUT , i WAS RIDING ON A BROKEN BOLT FOR ABOUT 8 MONTHS AND THE DAM THING WONT COME OUT , THE IS NO FORCE IN THE WORLD OR HELL THAT WILL TAKE THAT BOLT OUT
SAVE UR SELFT SOME PROBLEMS AND BUY SOME OMIPOWERS LCA'S OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT THEY ARE CHEAP , U CAN DRILL IT OUT BUT MAKE SURE U HAVE A GOOD DRILL AND ABOUT 10 DRILL BIDS AND 10 QST OF OIL
BTW WHEN I WAS TRIYING TO GET IT OUT i WAS USING A 20 TON PRESSER AND THE PRESSER GOT MESS UP BC OF THE BOLT

 

so the bolt wont come out of the bushing is that what u guys are saying? i like what ee_chris said but will it work i dont want to start something and it make the situation worse

 

you cant really make it worse, unless you drive that way. if you try it and it doesnt come out, replace trailing arm and if need be your LCA

 

If you try to use a bolt extractor, it can snap the bolt extractor. It depends on whether the person who installed the original bolt over-torqued it, which weakens it, which increases the likelihood of it snapping (at the weak point) when you try to remove it. If that's true, then a bolt extractor may work. And you won't know until you try. Good thing bolt extractors are fairly cheap.

If it was installed by someone who knows what a torque wrench is, well, you can still save the LCA & your shock. What you need to do is take an angle grinder to the nut that's welded onto either the shock or LCA. Once you grind off the nut, the remains of the bolt won't be held on by anything so you can punch it out. You'll need to buy a new nut and bolt, a dealership can sell you both.

Oh, and driving around on a bolt that's snapped off in the middle of the bushing is a very, very, very bad idea. Very.

 

i was thinking that maybe if i cut off the welded nut on the other side of the trailing arm i could possibly just press the rest of the bolt out of there then use a really good bolt and nut combination from then on

 

FIRST OF ALL THERE IS NO ******* WAY THE BOLT WILL LEAVE THE LCA NOW LISTEN UP FROM SOME ONE WHO JUST WENT THROUGH WITH THIS!


Alright now i just went through this 2 weeks ago. That specific control arm bushing comes prepressed into the LCA so no matter what you should just get aftermarket LCA's. You Should just grind the bolt part that is connected to the LCA off and then cut out the bolt and pull the LCA right out.

OPTIONAL PART BELOW
The bolt is not going to leave the LCA bushing no matter what you do so just heating it with a torch and tap the bushing out. In the meaning make your own bushing and use a grade 8 steal bolt so its drivable until you are able to order new LCA's. The bolt you will need for now will be a 3" 3/8 and be sure to get grade 8 or higher. If you are able to leave the car until your new LCA's come in please do so



my seized bushing i had to cut out on each side. Like i said i just delt with this problem and have been riding on a makeshift bushing for 2 weeks with no problems and im expecting my new LCA's that come pre pressed with poly bushings today so if you need anymore help let me know.

 

so just order a new lower control arm is what ur recommending

 

I think he's saying to cut the bolt out (grind the nut off), which will free up the LCA, remove the bushing/bolt from the LCA, then replace the bushing, bolt, & nut.

However, to install a new bushing you have to remove the LCA from the car, which means you have to fight the other bolt on the LCA (up by the chassis). Which may result in you needing to buy another bushing, bolt, & nut.

And since two OEM bushings are roughly the same price as an aftermarket LCA, that's why many people suggest buying new LCAs. You still have to cut the old ones out, but if you're tossing the LCAs then the job becomes a little easier.

 

^ yes just buy new LCA's with prepressed poly bushings and ditch the oem ones.

and also yes to the grinding of nut and cutting of bolt out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raphael &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so just order a new lower control arm is what ur recommending</TD></TR></TABLE>

listen

a lower control arm in honda will be around 180 $ , new aftermarket lcas will cost u around 100 bux now u do what u think is best

dont even try and go to a junk yard and get one bc u will end up braking all the bolts too heheheh

 

i remember on my friends the bolt twisted in half but didn't break

 

thanx fellas but what nut and bolt combo should i use when i recieve new arms?the oem ones will a nut attached to it? also should i put some anti-sieze to the new bolt?

 

up

 

You should buy bolts from a dealership.

I think they're considered Grade 10 or M10+, something like that (I'm bad with names). You could source it from somewhere else but honestly, they're going to be expensive no matter where you go.

The dealership can also sell you a nut to go with the bolt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by super-hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


THERE IS NO WAY IN HELLL THAT THE BOLT IS GOING OUT , i WAS RIDING ON A BROKEN BOLT FOR ABOUT 8 MONTHS AND THE DAM THING WONT COME OUT , THE IS NO FORCE IN THE WORLD OR HELL THAT WILL TAKE THAT BOLT OUT
SAVE UR SELFT SOME PROBLEMS AND BUY SOME OMIPOWERS LCA'S OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT THEY ARE CHEAP , U CAN DRILL IT OUT BUT MAKE SURE U HAVE A GOOD DRILL AND ABOUT 10 DRILL BIDS AND 10 QST OF OIL
BTW WHEN I WAS TRIYING TO GET IT OUT i WAS USING A 20 TON PRESSER AND THE PRESSER GOT MESS UP BC OF THE BOLT </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Cost effective: Buy the bushing (it is available seperately) and bolt from Honda. I'm not so sure Honda sells a nut for it - you'd have to source that. When I did this I was replacing my stock shocks with some Koni Reds that already had a nut welded on it. Remove your LCA's, press/burn out the old and press in the new. Use anti-sieze on the bolt if you wish, I didn't.

Easiest and thus slightly more costly: Buy some junkyard LCA's and repeat the above. This is what I did. My bolts came out though, but I wasn't trying to deal with down time when if they didn't.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igo4bmx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i remember on my friends the bolt twisted in half but didn't break</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol...x2. Mine was more of a 1/4 twist though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dann6968 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol im ganna sig that<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cost effective: Buy the bushing (it is available seperately) and bolt from Honda. I'm not so sure Honda sells a nut for it - you'd have to source that. When I did this I was replacing my stock shocks with some Koni Reds that already had a nut welded on it. Remove your LCA's, press/burn out the old and press in the new. Use anti-sieze on the bolt if you wish, I didn't.

Easiest and thus slightly more costly: Buy some junkyard LCA's and repeat the above. This is what I did. My bolts came out though, but I wasn't trying to deal with down time when if they didn't.

lol...x2. Mine was more of a 1/4 twist though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea that has happend to me too...but gettin a lca from a j/y is probably ganna be more seized than my car but i ws kinda lenin toward some nice blox lca's i dunno.